markho
Member
I just got my hands on a CLE+40/2 M-Rokkor, and everything appears to be working fine but there are a couple of things which I'm not sure about - they could be signs of possible trouble, or they may just be idiosyncrasies i'm not aware of:
1. When i activate the meter (in 'A' mode) by depressing or resting my finger on the shutter release, the correct LED doesn't light up first - it comes on only after the two or three LEDs above it come on, in sequence, one after the other. It looks a bit like KIT from KnightRider. It lasts only for a fraction of a second, and once the correct LED is lit it stays stable. It does this whether i use my finger or another (non-conducting) object to depress the shutter. Could this be a sign of dirty contacts, or other trouble, or is it normal behaviour?
2. I tried a few shots on timer, and while those with a shutter speed between 1/1000 - 1 second seemed to work fine, one that I tried with a longer speed (i'm guessing it should have have been about 16 seconds) didn't: the shutter opened, but never closed. I had to turn the camera off to close the shutter (and I waited the best part of a minute). I'm aware that at any ISO, a 16-second exposure is outside the meter's range (as specified in the manual), but whatever long-exposure (over 1 or 2 seconds) shot i've tried, the shutter never seems to close itself. Is this expected, or could it be a fault? I tried it both with film in and out of the camera, and that didn't seem to change things.
mark
1. When i activate the meter (in 'A' mode) by depressing or resting my finger on the shutter release, the correct LED doesn't light up first - it comes on only after the two or three LEDs above it come on, in sequence, one after the other. It looks a bit like KIT from KnightRider. It lasts only for a fraction of a second, and once the correct LED is lit it stays stable. It does this whether i use my finger or another (non-conducting) object to depress the shutter. Could this be a sign of dirty contacts, or other trouble, or is it normal behaviour?
2. I tried a few shots on timer, and while those with a shutter speed between 1/1000 - 1 second seemed to work fine, one that I tried with a longer speed (i'm guessing it should have have been about 16 seconds) didn't: the shutter opened, but never closed. I had to turn the camera off to close the shutter (and I waited the best part of a minute). I'm aware that at any ISO, a 16-second exposure is outside the meter's range (as specified in the manual), but whatever long-exposure (over 1 or 2 seconds) shot i've tried, the shutter never seems to close itself. Is this expected, or could it be a fault? I tried it both with film in and out of the camera, and that didn't seem to change things.
mark
awilder
Alan Wilder
Not sure about #1 but #2 is definitely problematic. When I use to own one, with very low light, the shutter stayed on for maybe 2 seconds at most.
Palaeoboy
Joel Matherson
First of all is that all CLE's have LED's that trace for a split second before they reveal correct exposure. So thats not a problem at all.
The second problem is known to happen occasionally but it generally occurs when you fire in Auto with no film in it and when the meter tries to take a reading off the black pressure plate during exposure it gets in conflict with the reading it took off the curtain and causes a lock up. If it does this its easily corrected by turning the shutter dial off Auto to 1000th of a second. Although I haven't seen it constantly occurring.
There is some variability in circuit boards in CLEs through its production range. Some will basically stay open for no longer than 2 seconds in Auto and others will do much longer exposures. It doesn't appear to be a fault, I suspect it was just a production change. One of my CLE's only stays open for 2 seconds but the other does something like 8 seconds that I have noted. I remember a previous one that I dropped off a cliff while abseiling used to stay open long as well. If you want to do time exposures however use B. and use Auto down to 1 second and you should find it wont ever lock up on you. (Especially if you have a film in it because the film isn't black like the pressure plate) If it does just rotate the shutter dial to manual to release it.
If you were firing it without a film in it then I think your camera is most likely fine. Pop a film in and let us know how you go.
PS I should add however if it is locking up with a film in it in daylight and the meter indicated a speed much faster than it opens for then this is the beginning of the dirty contact problem with the shutter dial. Rotating the dial back and forth a few times will generally clear this. If it persists its time for a clean under the dial.
The second problem is known to happen occasionally but it generally occurs when you fire in Auto with no film in it and when the meter tries to take a reading off the black pressure plate during exposure it gets in conflict with the reading it took off the curtain and causes a lock up. If it does this its easily corrected by turning the shutter dial off Auto to 1000th of a second. Although I haven't seen it constantly occurring.
There is some variability in circuit boards in CLEs through its production range. Some will basically stay open for no longer than 2 seconds in Auto and others will do much longer exposures. It doesn't appear to be a fault, I suspect it was just a production change. One of my CLE's only stays open for 2 seconds but the other does something like 8 seconds that I have noted. I remember a previous one that I dropped off a cliff while abseiling used to stay open long as well. If you want to do time exposures however use B. and use Auto down to 1 second and you should find it wont ever lock up on you. (Especially if you have a film in it because the film isn't black like the pressure plate) If it does just rotate the shutter dial to manual to release it.
If you were firing it without a film in it then I think your camera is most likely fine. Pop a film in and let us know how you go.
PS I should add however if it is locking up with a film in it in daylight and the meter indicated a speed much faster than it opens for then this is the beginning of the dirty contact problem with the shutter dial. Rotating the dial back and forth a few times will generally clear this. If it persists its time for a clean under the dial.
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markho
Member
thanks for the info; with regard to the long exposures, i tried it with and without film and it did the same both times. i've only tried it in total a few times, so it sounds like it might be worth a few more tests.
i should clarify that when i've tried a timed shot with the meter showing faster than 1 sec, it's always worked ok; the problem is only when the meter is showing 'under' and i've estimated the time at about 4-30 seconds (ie when i've closed down the lens to 'provoke' a long exposure). this is why i'm not sure if it's a fault or just me using the camera outside it's operating range.
i should clarify that when i've tried a timed shot with the meter showing faster than 1 sec, it's always worked ok; the problem is only when the meter is showing 'under' and i've estimated the time at about 4-30 seconds (ie when i've closed down the lens to 'provoke' a long exposure). this is why i'm not sure if it's a fault or just me using the camera outside it's operating range.
Palaeoboy
Joel Matherson
From what you have described everything is fine you are just working outside its metering range. When the electronics go a bit whacky they indicate a faster speed in daylight and then stay open for several seconds, thats generally when some service is in order. Just try stick to Auto 1 second and above and if you want to do longer exposures go to be with a cable release. Hope you enjoy your new camera, its one of the best M mount cameras out there.
markho
Member
ok, thanks, that's reassuring - didn't want to have to send it back after only a couple of days! i doubt i'l be using it much for long exposures anyway, but it's nice to know i shouldn't be worried.
Datatw
Member
I have the same problem with markho.
After I send CLE to a shop to CLA, #1 is solve.
After I send CLE to a shop to CLA, #1 is solve.