adriang
Member
The Photoshop action has been updated to have even better gamma and colour out of the box, with much more accurate results now (at least in theory, and in the testing I've done on the collection of scans that I have)
If there's someone who still wants to try this or isn't sure that it works, I'm still looking for more scans to invert!
If there's someone who still wants to try this or isn't sure that it works, I'm still looking for more scans to invert!
meloV8
Established
The Photoshop action has been updated to have even better gamma and colour out of the box, with much more accurate results now (at least in theory, and in the testing I've done on the collection of scans that I have)
If there's someone who still wants to try this or isn't sure that it works, I'm still looking for more scans to invert!
Thank you Adrian. The plugin works really well. I'm still testing
danitoma
Newbie
How to update plugin?
How to update plugin?
Hi,
I bought the plugin a while ago and on your website it says that all future versions will be received. I'd love to try the newest version but have no idea how to update the plugin.
Thanks for any help
Daniel
How to update plugin?
Hi,
I bought the plugin a while ago and on your website it says that all future versions will be received. I'd love to try the newest version but have no idea how to update the plugin.
Thanks for any help
Daniel
adriang
Member
Hi,
I bought the plugin a while ago and on your website it says that all future versions will be received. I'd love to try the newest version but have no idea how to update the plugin.
Thanks for any help
Daniel
You should have received an Email with the latest update.
I've just updated my color negative film inversion action for Photoshop to version 1.6.
New in this version is a completely new film gamma adjustment that is much more neutral and balanced, providing better shadow and highlight detail.
Other parts of the action have been updated as well, with better initial color balance and an extra option for lifting shadow values.
MemphisMonroe
Member
hey thanks. Could you explain what the lab saturation do and how it works?
adriang
Member
hey thanks. Could you explain what the lab saturation do and how it works?
In my findings, some scans have a lower saturation than they should (especially between scanners). This is just a method for increasing saturation in a clean way. It can also be used creatively when more punchy colours are wanted!
Scottboarding
Established
Wow!
Wow!
I just bought this and all I have to say is wow! I've been getting my film developed and scanned (on a Noritsu) by The FIND Lab at $12, however my local lab does develop only for $7. I started sending my color film to FIND since I couldn't get the colors to look right. I got tired of waiting a week and a half per roll so I got these actions and I won't be sending stuff to FIND anymore.
Here's a comparison. The FIND Lab is up first.

911180010012 by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I couldn't get very much detail out of anything due to how high contrast the scan was.
And now my scan on a Plustek 8100 using the actions.

Portra 400 Christmas by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I made very slight adjustments using the controls given in the action and I have so much more detail! I could easily bring this into Lightroom and pump up the contrast and saturation whereas with the FIND scan there wasn't any room to adjust.
Two more examples:

Portra 400 Christmas (2) by Scott Carr, on Flickr

Portra 400 Christmas (4) by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I am very happy to have finally found a way to successfully scan color at home. Thank you!
Wow!
I just bought this and all I have to say is wow! I've been getting my film developed and scanned (on a Noritsu) by The FIND Lab at $12, however my local lab does develop only for $7. I started sending my color film to FIND since I couldn't get the colors to look right. I got tired of waiting a week and a half per roll so I got these actions and I won't be sending stuff to FIND anymore.
Here's a comparison. The FIND Lab is up first.

911180010012 by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I couldn't get very much detail out of anything due to how high contrast the scan was.
And now my scan on a Plustek 8100 using the actions.

Portra 400 Christmas by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I made very slight adjustments using the controls given in the action and I have so much more detail! I could easily bring this into Lightroom and pump up the contrast and saturation whereas with the FIND scan there wasn't any room to adjust.
Two more examples:

Portra 400 Christmas (2) by Scott Carr, on Flickr

Portra 400 Christmas (4) by Scott Carr, on Flickr
I am very happy to have finally found a way to successfully scan color at home. Thank you!
adriang
Member
I am very happy to have finally found a way to successfully scan color at home. Thank you!
You are more than welcome! It really means a lot to me that you find this as useful as I do!
PCR
Established
Bougt it too! Very Very Good!
grooves1200
Newbie
Do you happen to have a demo video to see it in action?
Scapevision
Well-known
it's too bad there's no trial, but I understand if there was, people would just reverse engineer. Judging from the website pieces it looks like something interesting I've not seen before from other sources. Just hard to tell how well it works.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
... it looks like something interesting I've not seen before from other sources. Just hard to tell how well it works.
We are talking about converting a camera-scan file from a film color negative into a good color image.
See my example in #17 above. That's a hard negative to convert with good color in an automated process.
I've tried a number of approaches, and documented results in another thread.
I think Adrian's is very good, easy to use, and worth the modest money he seeks.
adriang
Member
Version 2.0 has just been released after a long wait in which I've collected a lot of scans and feedback from users.
Here's a few highlights about what's new
- No more cropping needed!
- Reworked gamma
- Improved colour
- Significant speed and ram use improvements
- Preset for underexposed or night shots
- Preset for non-linear raw tiff scans
- Option to revert the conversion
Going forward, I think a good idea is to have even more 'presets' for specific scenarios, however, the way it is done now works very well as long as the source file is good (as always: no clipped channels, proper linear raw scan, etc).
It would be ideal if the sampling of the negative base would be eliminated, and that would mean really just one click inversion (now it's basically two or three if you count selecting the eyedropper tool).
There are ways to script this into Photoshop, but none of the ways I can think of don't compromise quality, as there are some assumptions you have to make, and I would rather not compromise.
Another thing I've made a point out of with 2.0, is to have a very transparent process, just a straight as possible inversion, with correct gamma, neutral colours. No fancy assumptions, no weird colour casts and color shifts.
The philosophy is still to have a one click inversion, but not in all-in-one solution that involves guesswork and/or my personal bias. In the end, you are the artist, you should make final adjustments to tones, colours and sharpening on your own.
If you ever want to try before you buy, or test some scans and see how they would look, I'll gladly answer PMs.
(if you purchased, check your email)
Here's a few highlights about what's new
- No more cropping needed!
- Reworked gamma
- Improved colour
- Significant speed and ram use improvements
- Preset for underexposed or night shots
- Preset for non-linear raw tiff scans
- Option to revert the conversion
Going forward, I think a good idea is to have even more 'presets' for specific scenarios, however, the way it is done now works very well as long as the source file is good (as always: no clipped channels, proper linear raw scan, etc).
It would be ideal if the sampling of the negative base would be eliminated, and that would mean really just one click inversion (now it's basically two or three if you count selecting the eyedropper tool).
There are ways to script this into Photoshop, but none of the ways I can think of don't compromise quality, as there are some assumptions you have to make, and I would rather not compromise.
Another thing I've made a point out of with 2.0, is to have a very transparent process, just a straight as possible inversion, with correct gamma, neutral colours. No fancy assumptions, no weird colour casts and color shifts.
The philosophy is still to have a one click inversion, but not in all-in-one solution that involves guesswork and/or my personal bias. In the end, you are the artist, you should make final adjustments to tones, colours and sharpening on your own.
If you ever want to try before you buy, or test some scans and see how they would look, I'll gladly answer PMs.
(if you purchased, check your email)
Peter Jennings
Well-known
Looking forward to the Affinity update! Several here have switched to using Negative Lab Pro, but as I am not a Lightroom user, I'm still actively using this.
adriang
Member
Looking forward to the Affinity update! Several here have switched to using Negative Lab Pro, but as I am not a Lightroom user, I'm still actively using this.
Affinity has now been also updated to version v2.1
Negative Lab Pro is indeed a nicely packaged solution, and works with Lightroom! What sets my method apart is how transparent the process is, by using the minimum amount of operations needed for a clean starting point, and now, how accessible it is to get!
Starting now, CNMY Invert will be available via Patreon, making it more accessible as well as now featuring a standalone inversion pack for B&W scans!
adriang
Member
Today, a milestone release of CNMY brings some major changes and improvements.
Starting now, CNMY is a one click inversion.
-Sampling of the negative is no longer needed
-The default inversion now has a flatter profile, with extra care given to highlight information
-Patrons get the exclusive AutoColor - Frontier preset, which uses a LUT to emulate the look of the Fuji Frontier professional scanner.
The inversion is now up to 50% faster and supports batch workflows in Photoshop
Here are a few samples showing CNMY 2.2 together with the new Frontier 3DLUT profile.
The new inversion method is designed to give a flat and consistent result, ready for adjustments and grading, and to be used together with the Frontier LUT, and many more to come!
Starting now, CNMY is a one click inversion.
-Sampling of the negative is no longer needed
-The default inversion now has a flatter profile, with extra care given to highlight information
-Patrons get the exclusive AutoColor - Frontier preset, which uses a LUT to emulate the look of the Fuji Frontier professional scanner.
The inversion is now up to 50% faster and supports batch workflows in Photoshop
Here are a few samples showing CNMY 2.2 together with the new Frontier 3DLUT profile.
The new inversion method is designed to give a flat and consistent result, ready for adjustments and grading, and to be used together with the Frontier LUT, and many more to come!


meloV8
Established
Thank you Adrian! Version 2.2 is a completely new inversion quality. Really big progress.
Scottboarding
Established
adriang
Member
The new update is phenomenal! The frontier LUT is unbelievable and the highlight retention is much better than other inversion software. Here's a few camera scanned images of Portra 400:
Oh these look great! When you say camera scans, do you mean these are DSLR scans? If so, care to share your workflow? And also if you'd be willing to PM me the raw file for one of these two shots so I can use some internal methods on it, that would be fantastic!
Scottboarding
Established
Yup, DSLR scans. Next time I set it up I can take some photos to show the setup, but for now I'll do my best to describe it. I bought a light table similar to those that you view slides on which lights up the negatives. I invert my tripod so the camera is facing straight down at it. I use a Nikon D750, a 60mm f2.8d macro, and a scanning attachment that nikon makes (ES-2). The negative is held right in front of the lens and I can nearly fill the entire frame with the negative so there isn't a lot of cropping needed. I manually set the exposure typically around the 0 mark, sometimes over or under depending on the negative, and just take a photo. It's super fast to do and the quality is the best I've ever gotten from 35mm. Hopefully that made sense, but maybe not. I'll pm you some Raw files to play with and take a photo of the setup next time I use it.Oh these look great! When you say camera scans, do you mean these are DSLR scans? If so, care to share your workflow? And also if you'd be willing to PM me the raw file for one of these two shots so I can use some internal methods on it, that would be fantastic!
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