JuJu
Well-known
Has anyone tried using focus peaking in "Posterization" Pic Style? It's quite a challenge to focus with this combo...
Focussing without a real viewfinder looks already awkward. Not speaking of this. Perhaps they should add a tripod and a some cloth so that it looks like using a large format camera.
So if you're focusing on a cat's face from 1m with a 50, can you isolate nose, eyes, ears with focus peaking, or do you need to go to 7x?
I'm going to hold off a bit. The ability for the Nex without peaking, but with 7/14x mag to precisely allow you to focus to within the accuracy of hand holdability seems to be tossed out with the peaking, which highlights a "range of focus".
In other words, why not go back to an RF, or even scale focus, if you don't really want precision?
Now those art filters look fun though!
well, I am trying it. So far, the focus peaking does little with a Canon 28/2.8, and a little more with the J3 50/1.5 @ 1.5, but still peaks at a wider range than is in perfect focus.
However, the scene effects are excellent. High contrast b/w, and toy camera modes are fantastic, the monocolor/bw and posterization are a bit novel. The retro is OK. Lots of fun!
I'm using peaking with yellow on medium. Anyone find a better selection? I've found the peaking useless in poserterization, but I'm not sure you need to focus in that scene mode.
well, I am trying it. So far, the focus peaking does little with a Canon 28/2.8, and a little more with the J3 50/1.5 @ 1.5
So it seems useful, but the usefulness is somewhat limited if it works mainly with the equivalent of a very fast tele lens.
It's not that surprising, though. It works by detecting local contrast (i.e. if it's blurry, it's probably not in focus; if there are sharp edges, it's probably in focus). Consequently it works well with longer lenses that deliver a lot of blurriness, but not with shorter and/or slower lenses that don't.
Also I'd expect it to work well with Sony lenses that can be stopped down automatically, and not so well with adapted lenses that are stopped down manually. On the other hand this forces you to shoot wide-open with lots of blurriness in your shot, so you'll have to shoot that J3 in the f1.5-f2.8 range; if you stop it down it probably won't work well anymore. (You can stop down after focusing of course, but you lose part of the ease of through-the-lens focusing in the process, and also it means that NEX users now get to enjoy focus shift.)