Leica LTM New Leica IIIf + Summitar

[Steve Bellayr]

I was at my local camera shop and picked up some some exceptionally mint or near mint LTM items. (There are no marks, etc. on any of the items and the seem to work perfectly...no CLA needed.) First was a Leica IIIf Red Dial with self timer and a 50mm Summitar and second was a Hektar 28mm f6.3 pre-war lens. My total cost was $1400. I am not sure if it was a good deal as I am completely unfamiliar with the Hektar. Any comments on the items and their cost?
Any recommendations about these items and their use. I am concerned about eyeglass scratches from the viewfinder.
I might add I find the viewfinder very easy to use and focus. One item on the camera that I had never seen before or new existed was a red circular glass cap that fits over the rangefinder window closest to the shutter dial. When you look thru the left focus in the rear of the camera if the camera is out of focus one image is red and remains red until the lens is in focus and then the color disappears.
Does the film leader need to be cut to a specific shape or length prior to loading? In the store the owner loaded it without altering anything.
Thanks for any information that can be provided from personal experience with this model.

 

[Iestrada]

I can't help with the value. It will come down to the value of the 28mm. There is a way to loading a Barnack without trimming.

There is a you tube video and Steven has a page on it on cameraquest.

Enjoy it.

 

[Iestrada]

Here is the link for the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pw1Up9fpi3w

 

[peterm1]

You can load these cameras without cutting the leader IF you know what you are doing and take a lot of care but its much easier to cut the leader. Most people I have seen who do this slide something like a credit card into the film gate position when loading to prevent the film getting caught up and mis-loading or failing to load properly on the lower sprocket take-up wheel.

When I had a Leica 111, I had a pretty informal method of cutting the leader. I took the base plate off and turned the camera body upside down then lined up the loaded film spool with its correct position (as if I was about to drop it into the camera) and drew the end of the film out till it reached the the take-up spool on the other side of the camera. That told me how long the leader had to be. I would then cut the existing short leader to the new longer length taking care not to cut thru a sprocket hole (which could cause a tear) and to keep the inner curve where the leader changes direction properly curved - no right angles (for the same reason, risk of tearing). That was it. I think the 111f is about the nicest Leica 111 model and the Summitar one of the best lenses. I have a friend who has one and when I tried his I was surprised to hear how quiet the shutter is - almost like the M cameras. I had earlier models in which the shutter had a much louder and more clunky.

I have heard of some people gluing a small rubber O ring on the eye piece to prevent eye glasses being scratched. Another option if you prefer is to buy a separate 50mm accessory finder and use this to frame images. You still need to use the main finder to focus however but it removes some of the risk and given the pokey LTM finders many people find this to be a better option. Accessory finders can be had on eBay ranging from quite cheap to very expensive.

 

[Iestrada]

Here is the link to the page on cameraquest. Scroll down to camera loading.

http://cameraquest.com/ltmcam.htm

 

[MDM]

Peterm1's tips are quite good. I learned how to do it without trimming the leader from a Leica factory trained technician but still found it easier to trim the leader. If it is convenient, you might want to visit the camera store for a lesson. It's not hard and good luck.

 

[MISH]

I would agree with the head bartender when on his web site he singles out the IIIf RD with Self Timer as being a "incredible beauty." Don't know what the 28 is worth syo I don't know how good of a deal you got but as long as you are happy little else matters. I knew Leica made a accessory filter (OKARO) to improve contrast in the viewfinder but my understanding was that they were orange and went on the window closest to the rewind knob. I am very curious to hear what people know about what you describe. Two weeks before I stumbled on to a IIIf that I could not resist I found a ABLON in my late father in-laws desk ( he had told me that he had a Leica once but never liked it) quite a happy find for me and I find it to be the perfect solution to trimming the leader. Lots of other techniques and plenty of threads here and other forms where people describe what they do. I have never had a problem with the viewfinder scratching my glasses and I will have to take a look but I guess I always assumed the viewfinder surround was made of plastic. I find my IIIf a joy to use an I am sure yours will provide you with much pleasure also.

Lastly how about some pictures of this fine machine?

 

[Steve Bellayr]

Thanks for the replies. I liked the video on how to load the Leica. Sorry no digital for quick posting of the camera and lenses. As for the accessory filter it is more red than orange and when I place it on the window furthest from the rewind knob it makes focusing a...and dare I say it...delightful. When you are completely in focus the red overlap in the double image disappears.

 

[lxmike]

My new glasses, (expensive varifocals have three sevre scratches from my Leica IIIa so watch out

 

[MISH]

" Sorry no digital for quick posting of the camera and lenses"



this is something one never needs to apologize for

 

[HuubL]

The 28mm Hektor is a collectors item. It's worth depends on cosmetics, but if in nice condition they fetch 700-800 US$ easily. Quality-wise, it's an old design: sharp in the center and pleasingly classic soft. But slow and surpassed by the later Summaron. It's a tiny lens, I believe it's the smallest lens made by Leica.
So to hear, with everything in close to mint condition, I would say you did well. Show us some pictures of the set.

 

[philipus]

To load my II(D) I use one of those slightly stiff parking cards (credit card-sized) that one gets in parking houses. They have perfect thickness (a credit card would be too thick to fit in my camera). This has never failed for me and I don't trim the leader at all.

I have a post-war Hektor from the last batch in 1950. It goes to f22, as opposed to all others which go to f25. Mine has blue coating. It is a collectors' lens but I find it remarkably useful actually. I've seen prices for used, pretty banged-up copies around 400€ (I saw several for sale at European dealers recently for approx this). Rarer versions climb closer to 700€ or even more if hood, caps, keeper etc are included.

The Hektor is sharp in the middle, not so near the edges, and it flares quite easily.

I use mine mainly for street photography but will bring it with me on holidays, too. For street it is really good and makes an M or a Barnack into an incredibly compact kit. Sunny 16, f8 or 11, Tri-X and zone focused at 3m -- point and shoot.

I've considered replacing it with a Summaron 28/5.6 which has better performance but so far I haven't.

Here are a few examples (all shot without hood; I don't have one):

Just a quick grab shot:

It vignettes a bit, but not extremely.

Beach. Heron Island, 2012 | Flickr

It does flare however:

River Mansion | Flickr