dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
Wow, what a solid camera. Never held a real one before this. Leica M3 842---.
Now as soon as the CL is back from DAG--ready for the shoot out.
Looks nice with the 40 cron it--better with the 50 cron collapsible that came with it, but that lens I think needs a little TLC...the aperture ring is hard to turn without unlocking the front element! But the glass is nice. Maybe off to the Russian spa to be hosted by Oleg?
Okay, I ran it through the same cameraquest tests that the new M6 owner below did. All seems great. Except--when I fire the shutter I do see the leading edge of the seam (well, the plastickly looking shiny band that's to the right of the real seem) just peeking out from the left side (looking from the back). CQ states that as evidence that shutter needs servicing.
Thing is, this M3 was "recently" CLA'd by Leitz in New Jersey, well, in 1987!
Another question: when these CLAs are done on the M3s with the old style shutter speeds (1/100 instead of 1/125) do they update them to the new speeds? Just curious.
Well, I'll keep you posted on the shoot-out.
I also got a bunch of goodies...two meters (MC, M, booster, both seem to respond to light), an OTZNO soft release, IROOA hood (these names are outrageous), and some other stuff that will soon be on sale in a 35mm classifieds forum near you.
cheers
doug
Now as soon as the CL is back from DAG--ready for the shoot out.
Looks nice with the 40 cron it--better with the 50 cron collapsible that came with it, but that lens I think needs a little TLC...the aperture ring is hard to turn without unlocking the front element! But the glass is nice. Maybe off to the Russian spa to be hosted by Oleg?
Okay, I ran it through the same cameraquest tests that the new M6 owner below did. All seems great. Except--when I fire the shutter I do see the leading edge of the seam (well, the plastickly looking shiny band that's to the right of the real seem) just peeking out from the left side (looking from the back). CQ states that as evidence that shutter needs servicing.
Thing is, this M3 was "recently" CLA'd by Leitz in New Jersey, well, in 1987!
Another question: when these CLAs are done on the M3s with the old style shutter speeds (1/100 instead of 1/125) do they update them to the new speeds? Just curious.
Well, I'll keep you posted on the shoot-out.
I also got a bunch of goodies...two meters (MC, M, booster, both seem to respond to light), an OTZNO soft release, IROOA hood (these names are outrageous), and some other stuff that will soon be on sale in a 35mm classifieds forum near you.
cheers
doug
You might try using the shutter for a while at different speeds. If it has not been used in a while it could be "sticky". I had one like that, but then the curtain quit "peeking" after some use. I did have it CLA'd, but more for the haze in the finder. They do not change the shutter speeds on a CLA. That would take some parts change-outs. The shutter travel speed is the same as on the newer ones, it is the slit size that is adjusted. Your camera actually has a 50th second setting, and not the "X" in the middle of 30 and 60.
back alley
IMAGES
my guess is the m3 wins.
enjoy.
joe
enjoy.
joe
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
The field might be taken by the one that wins the issue of metering...can I get used to hand-held metering.
Thanks, I'll give it a good workout and see if it quits peeking.
Thanks, I'll give it a good workout and see if it quits peeking.
If the MC meter is still accurate, it couples to the shutter speed dial and you do not have to hold it...
Mine is NOT accurate, and I use a Weston Master 715 with the Leica's. Weston Master II with the Nikons. They came later, you know.
Mine is NOT accurate, and I use a Weston Master 715 with the Leica's. Weston Master II with the Nikons. They came later, you know.
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
I have a weston euromaster that seems reasonably accurate to me. I'll test the two Leica meters against it and see. It ruins the Bauhaus lines of the M3, however. 
hoot
green behind the ears
Gandy's checklist is good, but it can't hurt to go through Jay's checklist on photo.net, too (click here and scroll down to Jay's post). It includes some additional tips and tricks, and also claims the following:
"Look at left edge of the film gate from the back after the shutter fires. At 1 sec you should see the metal lip of the shutter protruding past the gate about 1mm; after firing at 1/1000 it should protrude or at least be flush. If the lip is recessed, it's time for a shutter brake adjustment or rebuild."
What you said about your shutter above seems to coincide with Jay's description of a correctly functioning shutter. Incidentally, I checked my own M3's shutter when it arrived this week, and it was that way, too.
"Look at left edge of the film gate from the back after the shutter fires. At 1 sec you should see the metal lip of the shutter protruding past the gate about 1mm; after firing at 1/1000 it should protrude or at least be flush. If the lip is recessed, it's time for a shutter brake adjustment or rebuild."
What you said about your shutter above seems to coincide with Jay's description of a correctly functioning shutter. Incidentally, I checked my own M3's shutter when it arrived this week, and it was that way, too.
CZeni
DaDa is everywhere.
I have an even older M3 (the one I just pimped er refinished) so it of course has the old shutter speeds. I inquired about getting them updated - apparently it is not a simple task...
hoot
green behind the ears
Actually, I'm quite happy with my dual-stroke and old shutter speeds. The former is easier and faster to operate, and allegedly puts less strain on the gears. The latter more often corresponds to my hand meter readings. Do other M versions occasionally have dual stroke, too?
back alley
IMAGES
with b&w film, metering hand held is a simple and freeing task.
i meter the sunny and shadow sides of the street and the transition area if there is one.
then i put the meter back into my pocket or case till the light changes, usually by the hour or so.
joe
i meter the sunny and shadow sides of the street and the transition area if there is one.
then i put the meter back into my pocket or case till the light changes, usually by the hour or so.
joe
FrankS
Registered User
Double stroke is only on early M3's . All later m's are single stroke, but can be rachetted in several small strokes.
JoeFriday
Agent Provacateur
correct.. M3s prior to about 919xxx are double-stroke, and later M3s, M2s, M4s, etc were all SS
JoeFriday
Agent Provacateur
919,251 to be exact
Hey, you and Brett will both have 40mm Summi's on M3's.
Coincidence?
Euromaster.... I want one of those. My Westons have the old speeds. Wanna Trade???
Coincidence?
Euromaster.... I want one of those. My Westons have the old speeds. Wanna Trade???
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
Hmmm, interesting offer. I like the Euromaster however because the dials don' t look so cluttered as old slide rules...can't I jjust use the "close enough" shutter speeds (ie, 1/50 instead of 1/60)?
Well, if the larger, heavier M meter works like I think it does (funny that it works but I think the later MC isn't as active!) then I'm set, as it has the old speeds on it.
Well, if the larger, heavier M meter works like I think it does (funny that it works but I think the later MC isn't as active!) then I'm set, as it has the old speeds on it.
Graybeard
Longtime IIIf User
dreilly said:Wow, what a solid camera. Never held a real one before this. Leica M3 842---.
.
Looks nice with the 40 cron it--better with the 50 cron collapsible that came with it, but that lens I think needs a little TLC...the aperture ring is hard to turn without unlocking the front element! But the glass is nice. Maybe off to the Russian spa to be hosted by Oleg?
Thing is, this M3 was "recently" CLA'd by Leitz in New Jersey, well, in 1987!
Well, I'll keep you posted on the shoot-out.
I
cheers
doug
While Oleg is certainly a competent camera technician (I was one of the first people to send work to him when he began advertising for work over the web, and have been a satisfied customer since), to send a lens halfway around the world for repair of a sticky aperture ring may be false economy.
Oleg's prices have been increased to what his sound work is worth and shipping to him will probably run you about $20 there and $15-20 back. Sherry Krauter or DAG will CLA a lens for $50 to $80 without the perils of mail in the FSU ( I've had things disappear on the way to Oleg - when they disappear in the former USSR, they disapper for good). For the same or less money, you can have the lens serviced in the US.
For cameras, particularly FSU rangefinders, the difference in prices makes service by Oleg a good deal. There is no place else that I would send a Kiev.
richard_l
Well-known
The difference between 1/50 and 1/60 is around 1/4 stop (actually 0.26 stop). That's practically insignificant compared to the net effect of all the other variables which can affect exposure accuracy. I.e., the answer to your question is: Yes, it's okay to use the next closest shutter speed.dreilly said:Hmmm, interesting offer. I like the Euromaster however because the dials don' t look so cluttered as old slide rules...can't I jjust use the "close enough" shutter speeds (ie, 1/50 instead of 1/60)?
Feel better now?
Richard
Steve Hoffman
Leicanutt
New M3 impressions
New M3 impressions
There is a new M3?
New M3 impressions
There is a new M3?
The M3 hasn't been made since the 1960's. There is a new Leica special edition called MP3, which is more like an M2 with some modern features like a meter. An edition limited to 1000 pieces, it runs almost $10,000 so I guess I'll pass on that for now.Steve Hoffman said:There is a new M3?
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peter_n
Veteran
Sorry if I've missed the context here. DAG or Sherry will CLA Russian lenses?Graybeard said:{snip} Oleg's prices have been increased to what his sound work is worth and shipping to him will probably run you about $20 there and $15-20 back. Sherry Krauter or DAG will CLA a lens for $50 to $80 without the perils of mail in the FSU ( I've had things disappear on the way to Oleg - when they disappear in the former USSR, they disapper for good). For the same or less money, you can have the lens serviced in the US. {snip}
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