> The M3 hasn't been made since the 1950's.
The 1960's. The last one rolled off the line in '68, source: cameraquest.com.
The 1960's. The last one rolled off the line in '68, source: cameraquest.com.
Graybeard
Longtime IIIf User
peter_n said:
Dreilly was considering repair to a 50mm Summicron and my suggestion was to have the work done here on the German lens for cost reasons.
With Russian lenses as inexpensive as they are, it is difficult to imagine anyone paying for repairs or shipping to the FSUrather than replacing one. I have taken silver Jupiter-8's apart for relubing and collapsible Russian 50mm's apart to free stiff aperture rings. With three of the four mechanical variants of the J-8 the job is simple, with the reamining variant the work is quite difficult because of tiny steel screws frozen into place.
dmchadderton
Member
Dreilly,
I've been through a similar situation. My first handheld meter was a brilliant Weston Master III (until someone broke it for me) ... it is truly liberating once you get used to the concept. I now have a much more modern Sekonic L308S with a digital display and built-in cone. It's a fantastic meter and can thoroughly recommend either - the WMIII was beautifully made.
Get either, learn to use it, and understand that neg films have good latitude - dead accurate exposure is not necessary !!!
I've been through a similar situation. My first handheld meter was a brilliant Weston Master III (until someone broke it for me) ... it is truly liberating once you get used to the concept. I now have a much more modern Sekonic L308S with a digital display and built-in cone. It's a fantastic meter and can thoroughly recommend either - the WMIII was beautifully made.
Get either, learn to use it, and understand that neg films have good latitude - dead accurate exposure is not necessary !!!
peter_n
Veteran
Thanks for the explanation. I have a J-8 that has an unusual build and just incredible glass. I would really like to get this sample CLA'd and collimated for use on a Leica M - difficult to imagine as that is!Graybeard said:
I must use this J-8 and no other one will do, and I will send it to Oleg if necessary. I am wondering if fedka does CLA's. I should send Yuri an email. Believe me, this lens is worth spending money on... 
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
Peter,
What have been using that J-8 on? Can a Russian lens be collimated for use on an M? (I'm assuming you're referring to the film/flange distance issue some say (dantestella) explain why FSU lenses tend to be "soft". I have a J-8, too, and can't wait to try it. It's a nice chrome one--and quite early. I hope I have a keeper, too!
cheers
doug
What have been using that J-8 on? Can a Russian lens be collimated for use on an M? (I'm assuming you're referring to the film/flange distance issue some say (dantestella) explain why FSU lenses tend to be "soft". I have a J-8, too, and can't wait to try it. It's a nice chrome one--and quite early. I hope I have a keeper, too!
cheers
doug
Sorry, my error, thinking '60s and writing '50s... I even fixed my post before seeing your correction, so there!Brian Sweeney said:
But thanks, and of course you're right.
peter_n
Veteran
Doug I've been using it on an M6TTL, and its been focusing correctly don't get me wrong, but I heard that Oleg makes sure the lens is perfect close-up and at infinity on a Leica. My sample has a completely smooth (ie no knurled grip) aperture ring and the only other J-8 I have seen like it was called a Sonnar J-8 - what that means (if anything) I have no idea. Mine was made in 1959 and there's a pic of it below.dreilly said:
hoot
green behind the ears
Peter - what do you mean by "unusual build"? What makes this J8 different from any other J8?
nikon_junkie
Established
I'm not sure why people are in general afraid of hand held meters. I find them more accurate than my F100 and comparativly quick. I think it is a wash when shooting in manual because I'm always tinkering with the in camera meter.
It becomes second nature, and it's one less (important) thing to fret over.
You will become quite efficient and more aware. When I'm outdoors I often can detect subtle changes in the light and pull the meter out and confirm.
If I still used the in camera meter I would not have this awareness.
Please give us a review with the 40mm/M3 setup
It becomes second nature, and it's one less (important) thing to fret over.
You will become quite efficient and more aware. When I'm outdoors I often can detect subtle changes in the light and pull the meter out and confirm.
If I still used the in camera meter I would not have this awareness.
Please give us a review with the 40mm/M3 setup
R
Roman
Guest
hoot said:
Ronnie,
look at the picture again - like Peter mentioned, this one does not have a knurled aperture ring!
Roman
hoot
green behind the ears
Oh... and why is that so good?Roman said: