New : Olympus 35 RC

Does the RC have a leather case? I have been looking for one for mine. I want to know if the leather cases are the ones that wrap around the whole camera and you can wear it around your neck. Not a simple bag to put the camera in (this is what I have been getting when searching). Similar to Canons, Nikons, Leicas.
Thanks
 
I think there's just the soft pouch, designed to work with the wrist strap. I know some folks like camera cases; they may be good for carrying, but I find they inhibit actual use of the camera and reloading in particular. Not a good way to store an unused camera either, as the case tends to draw and hold moisture that accelerates deterioration of the camera. (Like storing a firearm in a leather holster or rifle case, a formula for rust)
 
the camera that i picked up this weekend did come with the soft leather pouch, in decent shape considering its age.
 
Actually, I think there was a never-ready case for the RC; I'll do some digging.

As far as storing the camera in a never-ready case and the moisture problem, I'd just throw in a silica gel packet or two. Not that I store cameras in their cases ... what cases? ;-) I store in a plastic storage tub with lid, and a sizeable silica gel container in the case as well.

Trius
 
Hi,
If you want a copy of the manual for the camera, go to my website here http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/range/range.htm Olympus did do "never ready" cases for the bigger camera such as the SP but as far as I know, all they did for the smaller cheaper ones was a pouch.

If you are after a battery adapter one of the RFF members, John Neal, does very good ones. They are more capable and a lot cheaper than many of the commercial sites.

Regards
Kim
 
I got the case when I bought my pristine 35RC. The metal zipper can easily scratch the camera so I threw away the case. I still can't find a decent strap for the camera. Yes, I also threw away the plastic hand strap. It's useles.
 
elcud35rc said:
You can get the manual free with out a password here.

Kim, your site requires a password.

Hi,
The password is "Pentax" and clearly stated on the site. The only reason for doing this is to try and reduce the number of "people" downloading all the manuals and selling them on eBay. It hasn't been 100% succesfull as there are ways round it and most of the sellers advertising Pentax manuals on eBay are selling copies of the camera manuals I produced and the repair manuals that Mark Roberts and I have produced. Bearing in mind that their lists are almost identical, I suspect one person did the crack and the rest are copying off bought CD's.

I wish I didn't have to do this and in an ideal world I wouldn't have to. I am quite happy for people to download them copy them and send copies to friends etc. However I do object to people trying to make a fast buck on the back of my effort. :bang:

Regards
Kim
 
Does Olympus USA still mail manuals to anyone who calls and asks for one?
They did when I worked there, and for many years after...

"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
 
Took me two weekends to finally finish the roll of Tri-X 400 that I loaded into this camera.

For the most part, I'm happy with the photos on this first roll. I rated the roll at 250, and in most situations, it seems to have produced fairly good exposures. Not 100%, but that's okay. The think I'm most curious about is the focusing, and the framelines.

Focusing indoors under normal lighting conditions (even with some window light) was less than easy. I tried getting some indoor shots of my niece goofing around, and only a few of them ended up being sharp. Part of this I'm sure is the wider apertures I was using, but I was having a difficult time getting the focusing patch to line up. It also seems that the vertical alignment of the rangefinder may be off just a tiny bit.

Also, re: the framelines, I'm still trying to figure out what's going to end up in the picture frame vs. what I composed in the viewfinder window. In this example of the scooter/street scene, there was a significant part of the image recorded outside of the "rounded yellow framline box" that I saw in the viewfinder...

In the scooter picture, the framelines went between the headlight and the brake lever - so there was a significant amount of the image that I didn't think was going to be in the bottom of the picture. In the niece photo, she was fairly still, although I believe I did shoot at 1/30 and 2.8 - but it was difficult to focus and I'm thinking that's the main reason for the softness.

Also, excuse the quality of the pics, these are straight off the CD from the lab, and haven't been adjusted or leveled.
 
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Sockdaddy, I think the issue with the framelines considerably missing what was captured in the scooter shot was due to typical RF camera parallax error. As you get quite close to your subject, the distance between the lens center and the viewfinder center becomes a significant factor, as each has a different point of view on the scene.

Some RF cameras have parallax "corrected" framelines, but that can never change the fact of the different points of view, and probably a better word would be "compensated", as it can be correct only for the distance the lens is focused to. Things farther and closer will still not have the same spacial relationship on film as seen in the viewfinder.

You can try to keep in mind that there are two parallel views of the world, one from the lens, the other from the viewfinder, then after composing in the VF, carefully move the camera (e.g., slide it up and to the left for a horizontal photo) so that the lens is where the VF was, still pointing the same direction. The VF view is now incorrect, but the lens should be seeing what you saw earlier, and capture what you want.

Clearly, this isn't ideal, and yet framing is typically a rather more casual matter for RFs than for SLRs. Especially for closeups, and obviously macro shots just aren't in the cards for RF cams. Even at "normal" distances, there's always going to be more captured on film than you see within the framelines, and this is typical of consumer-level SLRs as well. But the SLR will give you a parallax-free view, where you can easily line up a nearby object with a more distant object... hard to do with an RF.

I agree about the Olympus RC's rangefinder... not really high contrast in the RF spot, making it hard to judge the right focus, and the spot is fuzzy around the outside making it even more difficult. Cameras with illuminated projected framelines such as the Bessa-R series and Leica M have sharpely defined contrasty RF spots that make them easier to focus in difficult conditions.
 
I also think it's worth mentioning that the RC's lens isn't the sharpest in the world wide open - it's not on par with such as a 35SP at those apertures, hence why you may find you have a "soft niece".
 
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