R
ruben
Guest
This weekend I black painted a Canonet, this time using a different way for de-chroming: Home Black & Decker driller + mounted stone.
I am 24 hours after baking and the black paint seems quite hardened after yesterday baking.
Regarding the mounted stones: it should be the most fine grained you can find.
Regarding the process: the camera disassembled castings are to be light pressured against the driller. The driller is to be fixed, not the castings. You carefully hand press the casting against the fixed driller. You have to figure our how to fix the driller in a non hazardous way. WARNING: drillers have been designed to be hand held, not to be fixed. Fixing a driller may be extremely hazarduous. Electricity and sharp end rotating at high velocity are involved.
What happens: slow slow you uncover the chrome until broad streaks of a gold-color appear at the casting. This seem to be the basic material behind the chrome. I have not fully erradicated the chrome but went satisfied with these "broad streaks". It is a 2 hours job.
What is the exact point I stopped the dechroming ? By touching with the same hand the inner non dechromed side of the casting and the outer dechromed side, I felt a noticeable difference. While the non-dechromed side, i.e. the chromed inner side, feels as slicky as any chrome, the dechromed side feels a bit like wood, i.e. prompt to catch paint without the primer layer of paint, I used to apply before this new technique.
A note to my fellow FSU gear comrades: by this proceeding I have de-chromed only a Canonet and a Yashica Lynx 14 castings. Both showed behind the chrome that gold coloured basis. I have no idea if the same is what you are going to find behind the chrome layer of a Soviet camera.
Cheers,
Ruben
I am 24 hours after baking and the black paint seems quite hardened after yesterday baking.
Regarding the mounted stones: it should be the most fine grained you can find.
Regarding the process: the camera disassembled castings are to be light pressured against the driller. The driller is to be fixed, not the castings. You carefully hand press the casting against the fixed driller. You have to figure our how to fix the driller in a non hazardous way. WARNING: drillers have been designed to be hand held, not to be fixed. Fixing a driller may be extremely hazarduous. Electricity and sharp end rotating at high velocity are involved.
What happens: slow slow you uncover the chrome until broad streaks of a gold-color appear at the casting. This seem to be the basic material behind the chrome. I have not fully erradicated the chrome but went satisfied with these "broad streaks". It is a 2 hours job.
What is the exact point I stopped the dechroming ? By touching with the same hand the inner non dechromed side of the casting and the outer dechromed side, I felt a noticeable difference. While the non-dechromed side, i.e. the chromed inner side, feels as slicky as any chrome, the dechromed side feels a bit like wood, i.e. prompt to catch paint without the primer layer of paint, I used to apply before this new technique.
A note to my fellow FSU gear comrades: by this proceeding I have de-chromed only a Canonet and a Yashica Lynx 14 castings. Both showed behind the chrome that gold coloured basis. I have no idea if the same is what you are going to find behind the chrome layer of a Soviet camera.
Cheers,
Ruben
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