[New test photos released] Leica Summicron 35/2 Eight Element copy made in China

The exposure difference seems quite significant in the first set of picures: the first image is quite dark in the shadow areas

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whereas the second one reveals a lot more detail, e.g. the field next to the parking lot.

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From the position of the cars, it looks like the images were taken almost simultaneously, so the light should not have changed much.

Do we attribute the exposure difference to the glass properties, the diaphragm, or the shutter?

It's obviously exposure difference. The M7 has a more accurate shutter than the MP as it is electronically controlled. On mechanical M kameras, 1/1000 is actually closer to 1/750, while the M7 is 1/1000. For example.
 
Web images are woefully inadequate for comparison purposes, there are simply too many variables (exposure, scanning and many more) to come to any conclusions.
 
When I was testing the prototype versus my old (but cleaned) original 8-element, I felt that one had to use the same camera for both lenses, as well as a fixed f/stop and speed, in order to do a fair comparison. IOW, a rapid lens swap. Otherwise there were just too many variables.

One thing I did not do was use Live View for focusing, therefore opening up the possible error of RF tracking as well.

I might today make a few images for comparisons sake.
 
When I was testing the prototype versus my old (but cleaned) original 8-element, I felt that one had to use the same camera for both lenses, as well as a fixed f/stop and speed, in order to do a fair comparison. IOW, a rapid lens swap. Otherwise there were just too many variables.

One thing I did not do was use Live View for focusing, therefore opening up the possible error of RF tracking as well.

I might today make a few images for comparisons sake.

This will be useful here, Ed. Thank you.
How easy was it to clean the Cron from haze? Should I do it?
 
First off, Raid, my original lens was cleaned when I had fungus removed from it. I don't wish that on anyone. Luckily they did a nice job.

I hope I get the pixel parameters of these images correct, loaded from flickr. There are 2 image sets. The first is indoors, shot at f/4. I see little difference.

The second is outside, in the snow, shot at f/5.6. Here the original lens seems to be about 1 stop slower. I repeated this to be sure I had not made an error, but it came out the same the second time. I shot on my M10 at 1/2000 @ f.5,6 for both. ISO 800.

prototype1 by woodswoman57, on Flickr

original1 by woodswoman57, on Flickr

prototype2 by woodswoman57, on Flickr

original2 by woodswoman57, on Flickr
 
Ed, can you make some pics with the lenses on a camera that is fixed on a tripod, so that both pictures are made from exactly the same point of view?

Now the snow pictures are a bit hard to compare.

Nevertheless: there is not much difference between the two lenses in your pictures. The prototype has slightly brighter colors.

Erik.
 
Answer:

Answer:

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Answer:


I am sorry to keep you guys guessing. But isn't it fun? 😛 Here is the answer to the color slide film comparison test.

The first set of pictures was taken by the original Leica 35mm f2 8-element + M7 combo, the second set of pictures was taken by the Replica 8-element 35mm f2 final retail version + MP combo.

Kevin
 
And I am sorry to keep confusing you guys. Actually, the actual luminous flux of the replica 8-element 35 2 is slightly larger than the original one. This is what the maker deliberately made in manufacturing. The edge of each of the elements in the replica lens is slightly wider than the original one, which will prevent people from doing something that the maker doesn't want to happen.

The test people use the Leica MP + replica 8-element to take the first set of pictures, and he used the same exposure setting from MP on M7 + original 8-element combo. The shutter speed accuracy, lighting changes, the fact that the actual luminous flux of the replica 8-element 35 2 is slightly larger than the original one, etc. may all affect the final result in each of the photos.

Kevin
 
the more photos posted; the more our eyes get trained. now it's easier for people to distinguished the replica.
it's correct that the shadow details of the replica is not on par with the original but i am still content with it, especially considering its cost.
can't wait to use mine once i got the lens in hands.
 
There were actually several sets of color photos where the original 8-element made darker shadows than the replica, despite the likelihood of some degree of haze....

Not sure what's going on!
 
I am no optical scientist, but it seems likely that what I was calling T-stop differences between the lenses (actual light transmission versus the mathematical derivation of the "f/ stop") is what Kevin is referring to also, regardless of the cause. The replica lens simply transmits more light at what ever diaphragm opening, perhaps 1/2 stop more on average.

I might shoot a couple of additional pairs of images, tripod-mounted, between my prototype and the original, but attempting to balance the light reading on the sensor itself rather than just the f/stop. If I can do this, then the images should look really almost identical, I think.
 
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