New to camera repairs

[Bololoco]

Hello everyone. I'm new to RFF and have joined with the intention of learning some camera repair skills.

My interests are generally in mechanical cameras and lenses but I have a few electronic cameras and peripherals that need some attention as well as a lot of old manual lenses.

Although I understand that various greases, pastes, tweezers, pliers etc are necessary, I'm not one of those people that think they need the best or the most expensive but at the same time, I don't want tools or greases that are inadequate, so was wondering what the general recommendations are?

My first job is going to be a Voigtlander Perkeo ii. It's complicated enough but doesn't look beyond my comprehension. I have watched the Chris Sherlock videos and whilst they're pretty comprehensive, there are a few moments where the camera isn't pointed at the job, so I once I get round to trying to fix it, I may well be asking questions where I can't figure out the missing moments.

Anyway, recommendations for tools, grease and anything else will be appreciated.

 

[ddutchison2]

Take their expert administered National Camera Repair course, or just browse the forum on their Facebook page - their website also has links to tools and materials and a large library of shop manuals.

 

[Mos6502]

I'd recommend that before you repair a camera you actually want repaired, you should take apart and reassemble a practice camera. Get an Argus C3, or an old Ihagee Exa, practice getting all the guts out (you don't need to disassemble down to the very last individual component) clear out the dust and gunk, put it all back together and test it. If either of those cameras is too challenging, then do not tackle anything more complex until you can take them apart and reassemble them without any frustration or hiccups.

The best thing about those particular cameras is they need no special tools for basic disassembly (a good set of various small flathead screwdrivers, an x-acto knife for lifting leatherette, and some fine tweezers, will do pretty much everything). Just some patience and physical finesse, which you will need for every other camera you tackle. These cameras also have a fairly unusual construction that not only prepares one for "surprises" but also gives a good idea for understanding the engineering mechanics of camera mechanisms.

What specifically did you need to repair on the Perkeo, BTW?

 

[Coldkennels]

Buy good screwdrivers.

Genuinely good screwdrivers.

Preferably ones that specify blade width AND thickness.

This is how Wera specify their screwdrivers, for instance; this is what I've used for the last few years, but other brands are available:



Sometimes the difference between a 0.23 x 1.5mm and a 0.25 x 1.2mm can make all the difference. Same with the 0.3 x 2.0 and the 0.35 x 2.5. Getting a screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY in the slot is the difference between a screw coming out cleanly and one getting stuck while you absolute trashing the head of it, and that's a lesson you want to learn early on.

See also: regular Philips and JIS. Two different things that look very similar. Both are also terrible, but you need the right screwdriver for each one.

 

[JeffS7444]

I got my start with the aid of Thomas Tomosey's Camera Maintenance & Repair Book 1 (at least I think so - there was no Book 2 when I got my copy). What makes the book kind of special is that it's written with the hobbyist in mind, and doesn't assume access to specialized tools. In fact, he offers tips on improvised tools. And his favored approach of flushing gummed-up mechanisms with solvent can be very effective, provided that you actually remove most of the old lubricants.

A more recent how-to guide is Let's Try! Repair and Maintenance of Cameras by Michio Ozeki / Japan Hobby Tool

Buy camera-repair tools sparingly, as they can be maddeningly camera- and model-specific. But the following are pretty safe bets.

• Set of rubber cups: Can be improvised per the Tomosey book, or purchased readymade from Japan Hobby Tool, or a number of PRC sources. I have the JHT set, and they see a lot of use.
• Screwdrivers: Metric, mostly flat blade types. I've had good results with Wiha. Don't worry about JST drivers until you start working on Japanese brands.
• Old toothbrushes are great for cleaning away gunk from gears and focus helicoids.

I'd advise starting with cheap cameras you aren't emotionally attached to, because your first attempts may look pretty bad.

 

[Bololoco]

I'd recommend that before you repair a camera you actually want repaired, you should take apart and reassemble a practice camera. Get an Argus C3, or an old Ihagee Exa, practice getting all the guts out (you don't need to disassemble down to the very last individual component) clear out the dust and gunk, put it all back together and test it. If either of those cameras is too challenging, then do not tackle anything more complex until you can take them apart and reassemble them without any frustration or hiccups.

The best thing about those particular cameras is they need no special tools for basic disassembly (a good set of various small flathead screwdrivers, an x-acto knife for lifting leatherette, and some fine tweezers, will do pretty much everything). Just some patience and physical finesse, which you will need for every other camera you tackle. These cameras also have a fairly unusual construction that not only prepares one for "surprises" but also gives a good idea for understanding the engineering mechanics of camera mechanisms.

What specifically did you need to repair on the Perkeo, BTW?

I have a couple of older basic Zenit's in a garage somewhere. I suppose I should have a look at them, although I really want to get my Voigtlander Perkeo ii up and running.

The winding mechanism is in need of repair but not the shutter mechanism. The Chris Sherlock video seems quite followable but I may be running into a missing part or 2, although I have yet to disassemble it, so i'm not exactly sure of anything. That may well happen tomorrow, although I may hold out as i'm not fully tooled up yet. I believe I can do that one with some basic tools but it's the greases that I don't have...yet! However, it can stay disassembled in a tub until i'm ready to put it back together.

Funnily enough, I know where there's an original exakta varex....the one with the fancy writing but I probably shouldn't add even more to my collection of broken cameras just yet.

 

[Bololoco]

Take their expert administered National Camera Repair course, or just browse the forum on their Facebook page - their website also has links to tools and materials and a large library of shop manuals.

I'll look into the camera repair course. It sounds like a mine of useful information.

 

[Bololoco]

Buy good screwdrivers.

Genuinely good screwdrivers.

Preferably ones that specify blade width AND thickness.

This is how Wera specify their screwdrivers, for instance; this is what I've used for the last few years, but other brands are available:

View attachment 4879173

Sometimes the difference between a 0.23 x 1.5mm and a 0.25 x 1.2mm can make all the difference. Same with the 0.3 x 2.0 and the 0.35 x 2.5. Getting a screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY in the slot is the difference between a screw coming out cleanly and one getting stuck while you absolute trashing the head of it, and that's a lesson you want to learn early on.

See also: regular Philips and JIS. Two different things that look very similar. Both are also terrible, but you need the right screwdriver for each one.

I actually bought a JIS screwdriver kit the other day.....the Vessel TD56S....however, when it arrived, it turned out to be the TD 56Y, which has less useful tips on but l am reading that there's an entire range of JIS screwdrivers made by vessel that may be useful....I just don't think I need to buy them all at once.

Thanks for the info though..i'll look into all that later when I have had some sleep

 

[Leon C]

Some bookmarks for you:

-----------------------------------------------

Richard Haw

Richard is mostly Nikon but his work methods and tools apply across the board.

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Mikeno62

One of the better YT Channels.

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Fix Old Cameras on YT has some nice mixed videos.

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Then last but certainly not least:

Rick Oleson

A goldmine of information.

 

[Mos6502]

Ebay is flooded with botched repairs by amateurs, trying to resell them for what they were worth before they messed with them. I cannot stress enough that you should not start building your experience with a camera you genuinely want repaired. Tools are one thing, but experience is everything else. Working on cameras is not like working on cars or lawnmowers, you absolutely need to approach these mechanisms with sensitivity or you'll be stripping fragile brass screws, bending paper thin metal parts, marring chrome plating, and losing microscopic bits in the carpet, etc. (which BTW, I suggest working on a soft cloth so any little bits you accidentally drop don't roll away into the abyss).

 

[johnf04]

Get yourself some compartmented boxes, like the one on the left. When you remove parts, write a label to put in the compartment, detailing where the part was from. Take lots of photographs as you take a camera apart, and write notes and do drawings, detailing what you are doing. I successfully rebuilt the shutter on this camera.

 

[Bololoco]

View attachment 4879192

Get yourself some compartmented boxes, like the one on the left. When you remove parts, write a label to put in the compartment, detailing where the part was from. Take lots of photographs as you take a camera apart, and write notes and do drawings, detailing what you are doing. I successfully rebuilt the shutter on this camera.

Yes indeedy. I should have said that I tried to repair an old teleconverter a few months ago and lost 3 miniscule screws in the carpet in the process, so the entire thing is in a bag looking rather useless. It wasn't that good anyway, so no great loss but it did make me realise that I needed to take a great deal more care than I previously had.

I have now got some small bags with the plastic rail/locks and a few containers for larger parts, similar to what you've shown here. Also, my entire workspace will have a catchment sheet, so nothing will be able to escape forever.

I have also decided to do things in stages....disassemble so far, then put it back together, disassemble again, going one step further, then reassembling etc. So i'm learning as I go and won't have to remember too far back....and yes, photographs will be taken along the way....especially macro.

 

[Dralowid]

As others have said:
Good tools.
Big white surface
Light
Compartment boxes
Lighter fluid for un-seizing things and cleaning them
Glue for sticking the coverings back down
Light watchmakers oil to be used very sparingly

Chose the first patient carefully. You are obviously attached to the Perkeo so before you attack it buy some thing cheap from roughly the same age to attack instead.

..

 

[WoodallP]

I actually bought a JIS screwdriver kit the other day.....the Vessel TD56S....however, when it arrived, it turned out to be the TD 56Y, which has less useful tips on but l am reading that there's an entire range of JIS screwdrivers made by vessel that may be useful....I just don't think I need to buy them all at once.

Thanks for the info though..i'll look into all that later when I have had some sleep

JIS won’t help a lot on real cameras (😂 mild offence intentional) but it’s always handy to have some. Anyway, buy good enough and avoid the cheap nameless sets. Bergeon are good but I only use 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2. Far more useful most of the time are my Wera small blade electronics screwdrivers. They do 1.2, 1.5, 1.8 and above; some in multiple blade thicknesses. These are high quality and give the purchase you need (I thank Coldkennels for recommending them). Amazon sell them.

 

[Bololoco]

As others have said:
Good tools.
Big white surface
Light
Compartment boxes
Lighter fluid for un-seizing things and cleaning them
Glue for sticking the coverings back down
Light watchmakers oil to be used very sparingly

Chose the first patient carefully. You are obviously attached to the Perkeo so before you attack it buy some thing cheap from roughly the same age to attack instead.

..

With a bit of luck, i'll be getting a perkeo 1 with a broken door for under a tenner, so will delve into that one for a starting project. I don't aim to get it completely working but i'll do a full strip down and rebuild what I can and use some of the parts to fix my perkeo 2......yes, I know they're different cameras but things such as the little square nut should be transferable.

 

[Leon C]

I also use one of these sets from iFixit which has all the usual suspects including 4 JIS tips, as I fix other things besides photo stuff it really is a handy set and the lid also doubles for seperating small screws for quick jobs.

And get yourself some decent finepoint tweezers. [Engineer ~ MIJ. Are nice for the money]

Grab some Acetone and IPA, they come in handy as well.

 

[Coldkennels]

Yes indeedy. I should have said that I tried to repair an old teleconverter a few months ago and lost 3 miniscule screws in the carpet in the process, so the entire thing is in a bag looking rather useless.

A strong magnet attached to the end of a long screwdriver is your best friend if your house has carpet everywhere. My dad taught me that years ago and it's saved my ass more times than I can count.

 

[Coldkennels]

Also, every so often what should be an easy job has been absolutely ruined by someone before you even get there.

I was cleaning up a Super Baldax a while back and found this when I took the top off:



Those are apparently the rangefinder adjustment screws. I have no idea how anyone could chew them up so badly, and frankly, I'm not sure how to remedy the situation, so the top went back on and it went back on the shelf until I figure out a solution.

 

[Dralowid]

Also, every so often what should be an easy job has been absolutely ruined by someone before you even get there.

I was cleaning up a Super Baldax a while back and found this when I took the top off:


I'm not sure how to remedy the situation, so the top went back on and it went back on the shelf until I figure out a solution.

Localised heat maybe, possibly using a soldering iron or flame to get on target? Of course there may be something nearby that might melt...

 

[Coldkennels]

Localised heat maybe, possibly using a soldering iron or flame to get on target? Of course there may be something nearby that might melt...

The soldering iron is a good idea - that should keep the heat concentrated enough to not affect anything else. But even if I can get them out, I'd need to find replacements. And I have no idea if they were ever intended to come all the way out and what might come off if I do get them out.

Urghhhhh.