New to developing questions

[mpaniagua]

I suppose that with many kind of films, you can see the differences and possibilities of the films. On the other side, one can easily get confused with the many results you get. One have to remember that film kind is just one part of the whole equation. ASA speed used, which developer you use, choosen temp range, dilution rate, developing time, etc. has as much influence on the process as the film itself.

Using one kind of film allows you to see the grain, contrast, etc. of the final negative from the dilution, temp, time and developer you choose, so you can get a better undestanding of the whole process.

When I started using film (about 30 years) I used PlusX, just because everyone else I knew where using TriX. Later, I started using TMax 400 and some Ilford.

The final thought here is, YMMV, so try whatever route you fancy, make better sense to you and sounds more fun to you 🙂.

Regards.

 

[zian]

Can't recommend a changing bag enough, it's inexpensive and just so convenient unless you have a good situation at your home.

Also with 35mm film, you don't need to be so exact with temperatures and times. Embrace failure and enjoy the process.

 

[mpaniagua]

Can't recommend a changing bag enough, it's inexpensive and just so convenient unless you have a good situation at your home.

Also with 35mm film, you don't need to be so exact with temperatures and times. Embrace failure and enjoy the process.

well, B/W is quite tolerant. Feel free to play and get the temp and dilutions that better suit you. C-41 and slides are a littles tolerant, as far as I remember.

 

[Ross D]

From http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/choosing bw films.html

We do not, however, endorse the view that you should pick one film and use nothing but that for three months or six months or a year or the first 100 rolls or whatever. By all means, if you want, buy a couple of rolls of Delta 100, a couple of rolls of Fuji Acros, a couple of rolls of Kodak T-Max 100 and a couple of rolls of Foma 100, and try them all. Or Ilford Delta 400, Kodak T-Max 400 TMY, Fuji Neopan 400. You may find one you love, and a couple you hate. THEN is the time to stick with the same film for a while, at least 10 rolls and maybe 20. Maybe even forever, or at least for years. If you've bought 'own brand', now is the time to buy 50 rolls, or a couple of 30-metre rolls for bulk loading.

In other words, the "choose one film" advice is worthless until you've had the occasional success. There's as much alchemy as chemistry in which film works for you, and even first-class films such as Ilford FP4 may not give you results you like as much as the results you can get from something else: HP5 maybe. Or vice versa: you may prefer FP4 to Tri-X.

Cheers,

R.

Thanks for that link Roger, lots of good info on at page and your site. I spent a while reading it, and still have more to absorb.

 

[jim0266]

My tips...

If you dry the film on the reels, before you put the film in Photo-Flo, re-roll the film emulsion side out. The film will come off the reel almost perfectly flat. I made myself a poor man's Senrac film dryer.

I also went to a two-bath fixing solution. Check out http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/007dXZ

Get some Hewe's stainless steel reels. Worth every penny. Ala Gene Smith I could even roll two rolls of film on them, emulsion side out. Great when you have five rolls and a 4-roll tank.

The hardest part is figuring out your agitation technique and time. Keep notes on every roll(s) you run: time, temp, agitation technique, etc.

Pretty hard to screw up B&W film development. You could probably developed Tri-X in puddle water and get a useable neg. 😉

Have fun!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/index.php

I have several how-to videos for film developing, loading reels, measuring chemicals.

 

[Ross D]

http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/index.php

I have several how-to videos for film developing, loading reels, measuring chemicals.

Thanks Chris, I mentioned you in my intro thread. I've been watching your videos, reading your threads, and your website. You have a wealth of info, much appreciated.

 

[Ross D]

My tips...

If you dry the film on the reels, before you put the film in Photo-Flo, re-roll the film emulsion side out. The film will come off the reel almost perfectly flat. I made myself a poor man's Senrac film dryer.

I also went to a two-bath fixing solution. Check out http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/007dXZ

Get some Hewe's stainless steel reels. Worth every penny. Ala Gene Smith I could even roll two rolls of film on them, emulsion side out. Great when you have five rolls and a 4-roll tank.

The hardest part is figuring out your agitation technique and time. Keep notes on every roll(s) you run: time, temp, agitation technique, etc.

Pretty hard to screw up B&W film development. You could probably developed Tri-X in puddle water and get a useable neg. 😉

Have fun!

Thanks,

I won a auction on a new Kalt stainless steel tank and two 35mm Stainless steel Kalt film reels. Tank will do two reels at a time, seems like a good size to start with.

I feel as if I should personally thank every response. There is a wealth of info I've received just from this thread already today.

 

[ashfaque]

Hi Ross,

I bet you're excited as I was and still am. Most probably you already know the following stuffs. Sorry if I sound a bit idiosyncratic. But here you go:

Ilford bulk rolls: Unlike Rollei, Kodak, Adox and other bulk rolls, Ilford ones are slightly different - the black plastic bag in which they come in are not taped. They are simply folded over and then put inside those lovely boxes. When I 1st started, in my over excitement I peeked through it, thinking there must be another black plastic bag inside! :bang: Basically I didn't heed the Ilford advice written on the outer box.

Re tank and tank reels: try to get hold of Nikkor, Kindermann/Hewes SS tank/reel if you'd like to stick to SS tanks/reels. But you'd like to try plastic tank/rèel Jobos are the best.

During mixing powder developer (or any chemical) always wear face mask and gloves. If you have plan to use pyrogallol, pyrocatechin based staining developer later, you might as well start using Nitrile gloves. Whatever type of gloves you use make sure you buy powderless gloves. If you can't find them, just wash the powder off and dry them before.

Use destilled/demineralised water to make all your working solutions (developer, fixer, stop and wetting agent).

Try to keep the temperature within 1-2 deg C. of variation. Since you'll be using HP5 Plus, and probably ID-11 (or D-76) now, follow Ilford's instructions on mixing and agitation to the letter. You can later muck around as it is quite a fun. I know I do.

Re reloadable cassette: check and clean each one. To clean the felt area, both 1st time and after each cycle, run those 'Post-it' notes through the felt area. But be careful not not to tear it off though.

Also check your bulk film loader 1st before putting in a bulk roll.

Most importantly enjoy. 🙂

Bests,
Ashfaque

 

[mcfingon]

I remember reading that that is a bad idea.
The logic was that as the temperature drops, solubility of solids in liquids decreases and the active ingredients precipitate (I hope that is the right word).

Here in german: http://forum.fotoimpex.de/index.php?showtopic=1897

I've had no precipitation in the years I've been storing my chemicals in the fridge. I'm using a bottle of Ilford LC29 developer opened in May 2013 that's still working fine, when it would have gone off long before if it was at room temperature. Same for Ilford Rapid fix, which I check the activity of with every roll of film I process. No change over a period of a year with an opened bottle.

 

[Ross D]

Hi Ross,

I bet you're excited as I was and still am. Most probably you already know the following stuffs. Sorry if I sound a bit idiosyncratic. But here you go:

Ilford bulk rolls: Unlike Rollei, Kodak, Adox and other bulk rolls, Ilford ones are slightly different - the black plastic bag in which they come in are not taped. They are simply folded over and then put inside those lovely boxes. When I 1st started, in my over excitement I peeked through it, thinking there must be another black plastic bag inside! :bang: Basically I didn't heed the Ilford advice written on the outer box.

Re tank and tank reels: try to get hold of Nikkor, Kindermann/Hewes SS tank/reel if you'd like to stick to SS tanks/reels. But you'd like to try plastic tank/rèel Jobos are the best.

During mixing powder developer (or any chemical) always wear face mask and gloves. If you have plan to use pyrogallol, pyrocatechin based straining developer later, you might as well start using Nitrile gloves. Whatever type of gloves you use make sure you buy powderless gloves. If you can't find them, just wash the powder off and dry them before.

Use destilled/demineralised water to make all your working solutions (developer, fixer, stop and wetting agent).

Try to keep the temperature within 1-2 deg C. of variation. Since you'll be using HP5 Plus, and probably ID-11 (or D-76) now follow Ilford's instruction on mixing and agitation to the letter. You can later muck around as it is quite a fun. I know I do.

Re reloadable cassette: check and clean each one. To clean the felt area, both 1st time and after each cycle, run those post it notes through the felt area. But be careful not not to tear it off though.

Also check your bulk film loader 1st before putting in a bulk film roll.

Most importantly enjoy. 🙂

Bests,
Ashfaque

Some great nuggets of info in there. 12 years or so ago when I was pursuing photography heavily, I never even gave home developing a thought. I live far away from big cities that have photo clubs, YouTube wasn't what it is today, and the online information may have been there, but I sure didn't know about it. It just seems like it's completely possible today, and then film developing materials are readily available and fairly inexpensive.

But yes. Very excited, and also processing B&W was always something my general photo labs didn't do . And loading my own film has some financial and a bit of romantacism qualities to it.

 

[De_Corday]

Oh, a quick tip I've recently hit upon... When you store your chemistry, throw a square of plastic wrap over the spout and then tighten down the cap. Makes the whole thing more air-tight. It's greatly improved the shelf-life of my D76.

 

[mpaniagua]

Oh, a quick tip I've recently hit upon... When you store your chemistry, throw a square of plastic wrap over the spout and then tighten down the cap. Makes the whole thing more air-tight. It's greatly improved the shelf-life of my D76.

+1 on that. Also, if you use plastic bottles, try squeezing them to extract air. Less air, less oxidation, more life span.

Regards.

 

[flavio81]

From http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/choosing bw films.html

We do not, however, endorse the view that you should pick one film and use nothing but that for three months or six months or a year or the first 100 rolls or whatever. By all means, if you want, buy a couple of rolls of Delta 100, a couple of rolls of Fuji Acros, a couple of rolls of Kodak T-Max 100 and a couple of rolls of Foma 100, and try them all. Or Ilford Delta 400, Kodak T-Max 400 TMY, Fuji Neopan 400. You may find one you love, and a couple you hate. THEN is the time to stick with the same film for a while, at least 10 rolls and maybe 20. Maybe even forever, or at least for years. If you've bought 'own brand', now is the time to buy 50 rolls, or a couple of 30-metre rolls for bulk loading.

The OP is a beginner. To properly compare films to "pick one you love", he first needs to be sure that he is developing properly at least one brand of film. That's why i suggest to stick to one film at the beginning.
Can't properly compare films if the development is not consistent nor verified to produce great results with at least 1 specific type of film.

 

[Jake Mongey]

I would reccomend picking up a copy of Ansel Adams beginners guide at amazon here it should get you through and teach you everything you need:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ansel-Adams-Guide-Photography-Techniques/dp/0821225758/ref=pd_sim_14_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4E941PBWXSZRQ5A7NFA8

 

[Roger Hicks]

The OP is a beginner. To properly compare films to "pick one you love", he first needs to be sure that he is developing properly at least one brand of film. That's why i suggest to stick to one film at the beginning.
Can't properly compare films if the development is not consistent nor verified to produce great results with at least 1 specific type of film.

No. Love conquers all. Doesn't matter if it's pure luck (as love usually is). Go with whatever looks good from a series of random tries. Then refine it.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Roger Hicks]

I would reccomend picking up a copy of Ansel Adams beginners guide at amazon here it should get you through and teach you everything you need:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ansel-Adams-Guide-Photography-Techniques/dp/0821225758/ref=pd_sim_14_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4E941PBWXSZRQ5A7NFA8

Again, no. AA was a great photographer, a mediocre theorist and a rotten writer. Steer well clear of him until you know enough to ignore his overly prescriptive style.

See especially http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/medium formats.html and http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps zone.html

Cheers,

R.

 

[Roger Hicks]

Thanks for that link Roger, lots of good info on at page and your site. I spent a while reading it, and still have more to absorb.

Thanks,

Cheers,

R.

 

[michaelwj]

For what it's worth, my advice is to not overthink it. There is an overload of information out there, and generally the manufacturers development times are fine. Get a bunch of films and a bunch of developers and have fun. While we talk about this developer vs that one and times and dilutions, if you are methodical about following the temperature and times (even remotely closely) then you will be hard pressed to mess it up. I've never gotten unacceptable results.
Once you get the hang of it, then you can try to tweak and refine a film you like. Until then, have fun and follow the process.

I'd also recommend running off a short roll and using it to practice loading the reels in the daylight, once you can do it with your eyes closed you're ready to go. It'll make the first roll of pictures less stressful.

And again, have fun!

 

[Roger Hicks]

For what it's worth, my advice is to not overthink it. There is an overload of information out there, and generally the manufacturers development times are fine. Get a bunch of films and a bunch of developers and have fun. While we talk about this developer vs that one and times and dilutions, if you are methodical about following the temperature and times (even remotely closely) then you will be hard pressed to mess it up. I've never gotten unacceptable results.
Once you get the hang of it, then you can try to tweak and refine a film you like. Until then, have fun and follow the process.

I'd also recommend running off a short roll and using it to practice loading the reels in the daylight, once you can do it with your eyes closed you're ready to go. It'll make the first roll of pictures less stressful.

And again, have fun!

Dear Michael,

YES!

Cheers,

R.