lencap
Established
Greetings - I've scanned many posts and have learned quite a bit about focus, but I'm still having some issues and would like some guidance.
I recently purchased a new M9/50mm 'Cron, so I'm confident that it is aligned correctly and working as Leica intended. I tend to shoot in natural light and often find that my exposure time is pretty long - 1/30 of a second or so even at full aperture. At that speed, and even a bit faster, I'm unable to get a clear shot. I'm used to the DSLR world, especially Nikon VR lenses, which are image stabilized.
I've tried bracing my elbows by my side, shooting while exhaling, finding support if possible on whatever is available, but still I'm shaking the camera. I owned a M7 in the past and had some focus issues then as well, but not to this degree.
By the way I'm a "senior citizen" meaning my eyesight isn't what it once was and I wear multi-focal glasses and have quite a bit of astigmatism.
The Nikon dealer phrased it pretty interestingly: "I shot Leica when I was young. At OUR age you really need to consider an image stabilized system. If you love Leica maybe the new X-E1 AIS lens system will work for you." I recognize that things are changing, but I'm not yet ready to concede that I need training wheels on my photography hobby.
Any thoughts/articles etc. that you suggest will be warmly welcomed.
Thanks,
The Geezer
I recently purchased a new M9/50mm 'Cron, so I'm confident that it is aligned correctly and working as Leica intended. I tend to shoot in natural light and often find that my exposure time is pretty long - 1/30 of a second or so even at full aperture. At that speed, and even a bit faster, I'm unable to get a clear shot. I'm used to the DSLR world, especially Nikon VR lenses, which are image stabilized.
I've tried bracing my elbows by my side, shooting while exhaling, finding support if possible on whatever is available, but still I'm shaking the camera. I owned a M7 in the past and had some focus issues then as well, but not to this degree.
By the way I'm a "senior citizen" meaning my eyesight isn't what it once was and I wear multi-focal glasses and have quite a bit of astigmatism.
The Nikon dealer phrased it pretty interestingly: "I shot Leica when I was young. At OUR age you really need to consider an image stabilized system. If you love Leica maybe the new X-E1 AIS lens system will work for you." I recognize that things are changing, but I'm not yet ready to concede that I need training wheels on my photography hobby.
Any thoughts/articles etc. that you suggest will be warmly welcomed.
Thanks,
The Geezer
thegman
Veteran
1/30th of a second, at f/2, I'm guessing you're shooting in quite dark surroundings, and/or you're shooting at ISO 100.
I would suggest that you try shooting at something like ISO 800, and try to get your shutter speed up to maybe 1/100th of a second. Also you could try shooting at f/4 or something like that, which will give you a margin of error with focusing.
1/30th of second can be tricky to hold steady sometimes, and not just for "seniors".
I would suggest that you try shooting at something like ISO 800, and try to get your shutter speed up to maybe 1/100th of a second. Also you could try shooting at f/4 or something like that, which will give you a margin of error with focusing.
1/30th of second can be tricky to hold steady sometimes, and not just for "seniors".
raid
Dad Photographer
Practice focusing in good light and aim at very clear scenes with lines. Make it a trivial test so that you can figure out whether it is equipment or you who is the cause of unsharp iages. I used a few minutes ago my M9 with the Summicron.
Rangefinderfreak
Well-known
I am having leica M courses for newbie M users. There we practice a couple things. First pressing the shutter so that the exposure locks. when you push further, the exposure is done. Try to squeeze the shutter as evenly as possible. A good way to practice is to mount a small mirror in front of the body, without the lens. On a sunny day shoot so that you see the reflection of the light rays on the opposite wall. You can see the shake very easily.
Another is to get used to the fact that M finder is a meter showing distances, not sharpness. When you move the focusing lever, the small image in the rangefinder window moves to right. You don`t have to guess if it is sharp or not, you just move the small image PAST the optimum, the correct distance is where there is the same amount of travel from left side to right side and then moved in the middle. It is very easy to judge the distance on both sides of optimum when it s slightly misplaced. Hope you understand, i am not very good in writing english !
Another is to get used to the fact that M finder is a meter showing distances, not sharpness. When you move the focusing lever, the small image in the rangefinder window moves to right. You don`t have to guess if it is sharp or not, you just move the small image PAST the optimum, the correct distance is where there is the same amount of travel from left side to right side and then moved in the middle. It is very easy to judge the distance on both sides of optimum when it s slightly misplaced. Hope you understand, i am not very good in writing english !
hellomikmik
Well-known
try to change shutter release to "soft" so it triggers before you hit the small resistance point at the bottom.
Richard G
Veteran
You mentioned focus. Even Leicas and Leica lenses can come from the factory with maladjustments or even incorrect assembly (35 Summicron bought by my science teacher in 1977 with one element reversed: wouldn't focus.) Check with a detailed subject and a fast shutter speed close up and at infinity.
The base ISO of 160 is ideal with the M9 and noise is a consideration at most higher ISOs especially with under-exposure. At 800 with good exposure it is not a problem even with colour. Your experience with the DSLR VR lenses has probably spoilt you. I think I saw a shot on the Nikon forum with a VR 300 taken at 1/30s. Scarcely believable.
On Saturday I shot all afternoon in an adequately lit restaurant at 1/30 or 1/60s. A few shots were so pin sharp I could see the tiny hairs on the nose of one of the guests in profile. Others with slight underexposure or slight camera movement were not so perfect. I am over 50 but can still hand hold a 1/15 regularly including with the M9, and I do often attempt slower than that.
I did read somewhere, likely here, that digital (as in digital sensor) requires faster shutter speeds than I would have been used to with film. I can't find that now. Anyway, it has not been my experience with the M9.
Finally, are you using Lightroom? I found that the first few pictures from my M9 were hardly impressively sharp. I wasn't sure what it was. As I have got more used to the camera and the software I have been very happy with the results. I have 25% input sharpening preloaded as a default in LR 4.2 - not dialled in by me ever. I hardly ever push it further.
I got a softie with my LFI subscription. I don't use it on the M9 but many do. It is great for the M6 which has a terribly long button travel before tripping the shutter.
It ought to be possible for you to get reasonably reliable shooting 1/30 when you have to, but do explore 800 ISO. The key is to expose adequately to avoid the heavy noise.
The base ISO of 160 is ideal with the M9 and noise is a consideration at most higher ISOs especially with under-exposure. At 800 with good exposure it is not a problem even with colour. Your experience with the DSLR VR lenses has probably spoilt you. I think I saw a shot on the Nikon forum with a VR 300 taken at 1/30s. Scarcely believable.
On Saturday I shot all afternoon in an adequately lit restaurant at 1/30 or 1/60s. A few shots were so pin sharp I could see the tiny hairs on the nose of one of the guests in profile. Others with slight underexposure or slight camera movement were not so perfect. I am over 50 but can still hand hold a 1/15 regularly including with the M9, and I do often attempt slower than that.
I did read somewhere, likely here, that digital (as in digital sensor) requires faster shutter speeds than I would have been used to with film. I can't find that now. Anyway, it has not been my experience with the M9.
Finally, are you using Lightroom? I found that the first few pictures from my M9 were hardly impressively sharp. I wasn't sure what it was. As I have got more used to the camera and the software I have been very happy with the results. I have 25% input sharpening preloaded as a default in LR 4.2 - not dialled in by me ever. I hardly ever push it further.
I got a softie with my LFI subscription. I don't use it on the M9 but many do. It is great for the M6 which has a terribly long button travel before tripping the shutter.
It ought to be possible for you to get reasonably reliable shooting 1/30 when you have to, but do explore 800 ISO. The key is to expose adequately to avoid the heavy noise.
Damaso
Photojournalist
You might also want to consider at viewfinder magnifier. You need to figure out if the problem if camera shake or focusing accuracy. You may just need to shooter at a faster iso or shutter speed or get a faster lens. A softie may well help too...
Richard G
Veteran
I agree with all of this. Go easy on the continuous mode shooting with the M9 though. The buffer is small and I have locked mine down a couple of times. I haven't even tried continuous mode since I had trouble with the SanDisk card.
lencap
Established
Thanks to all for the replies - much appreciated. I also appreciate the tips - like resetting the lens to infinity, and other thoughts.
gsgary
Well-known
When i first got my Leica 2 leica shooters told me when you find a subject to start focusing from infinity
ShinX414
camera geek
since i'm a newbe too could someone explain to me why it is better to focus from infinity?
i read a few times already that it is adviseable to not focus back and forth but rather go back to infinity or minimal focus distance and restart again. but i don't really understand why...is it because the lenses are not accurate?
i read a few times already that it is adviseable to not focus back and forth but rather go back to infinity or minimal focus distance and restart again. but i don't really understand why...is it because the lenses are not accurate?
I'd love to know the reason for this because I've shot Leica Ms for many many years and have never done this.
grandallj
Grainy
I think of it as being a way to make the shooting process repetitive, and therefore more reflexive. If you're always starting at infinity, you always know to pull the focus tab and with enough repetition will start to do it without having to think about it. Also, as you're looking through the viewfinder, you'll be able to see the RF patch begin to line up and can get accustomed to stopping your focusing motion before you go too far.
If you'll forgive a potentially ill-timed firearms comparison, when I first learned to shoot a pistol, one of the techniques I was taught was to line up the sights on the gun but begin by aiming somewhat above the target, then lower the gun until the target appears beyond the sights. As you lower the gun, when you see the target, you complete the shot. I think it's roughly the same idea with the RF focusing -- you are pulling your focal point until you see it line up, and make your shot when it lines up, rather than going back and forth past the focal point.
If you'll forgive a potentially ill-timed firearms comparison, when I first learned to shoot a pistol, one of the techniques I was taught was to line up the sights on the gun but begin by aiming somewhat above the target, then lower the gun until the target appears beyond the sights. As you lower the gun, when you see the target, you complete the shot. I think it's roughly the same idea with the RF focusing -- you are pulling your focal point until you see it line up, and make your shot when it lines up, rather than going back and forth past the focal point.
hteasley
Pupil
1/30 is a pretty slow shutter, and the blur is probably camera movement. I'd set the shutter to 1/125, adjust the ISO up, and see what happens.