stuken
Established
I'm going to trade my f100 for a IIIf with a summitar 5cm f2 and a leica light meter. I am beyond excited. I will post test shots soon. This is my first leica of any sort, and I have been waiting along time for it. I love the look and feel this lens gives, and I hope it's a good sample. Any red flags I should be looking for before making the trade?
A few pictures of the camera that the seller had.
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080315704766.jpg
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080359442683.jpg
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080355387960.jpg
http://pds4.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080304713463.jpg
http://pds4.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080349326829.jpg
A few pictures of the camera that the seller had.
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080315704766.jpg
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080359442683.jpg
http://pds5.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080355387960.jpg
http://pds4.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080304713463.jpg
http://pds4.egloos.com/pmf/200703/09/59/c0053159_080349326829.jpg
HuubL
hunter-gatherer
The MR meter was made for M series cameras. You'ld be better off with a small modern meter. Your black MR meter could bring you 40-50 USD through Ebay.
stuken
Established
Thanks for the heads up. I don't plan on using a meter with this camera at all though. Something I have been trying to do with my olympus and yashicas for a while now.
foto_fool
Well-known
I use the Voigtlander VCII meter with my IIIf - good combination. I'm only so-so with sunny-16 and cloudy-11.
- John
- John
brachal
Refrigerated User
Fire the shutter on all speeds. It shouldn't sound "grindy." Make sure the slow speeds don't stick.
It's far from foolproof, but take off the lens and look at the shutter curtains, front and back (use the B setting). You don't want to see any cracks, holes, etc.
Make sure the take-up spool is in there while you're at it.
Make sure the rangefinder is bright, clear, and sharp.
That's all I can think of for now. Good luck, I LOVE my Barnack!
It's far from foolproof, but take off the lens and look at the shutter curtains, front and back (use the B setting). You don't want to see any cracks, holes, etc.
Make sure the take-up spool is in there while you're at it.
Make sure the rangefinder is bright, clear, and sharp.
That's all I can think of for now. Good luck, I LOVE my Barnack!
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Get a 30 day guarantee IN WRITING on bill of sale. Shoot roll that day. It looks real pretty.
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
brachal said:
You mean to check them all from the front, right? You can't check from the back on a bottom loader.
brachal
Refrigerated User
crawdiddy said:
Yes, you have to check them from the front. I wasn't clear enough there. I meant the front curtain and the rear curtain.
Luddite Frank
Well-known
Stuken,
I've had my III-f (s/n 600xxx) about a month now, and really like it. It was my first Barnack camera, and I'm really impressed with it.
My RF was a bit cloudy, so I cleaned the RF lenses as best I could from the outside, then cut a litttle disc of theatrical gel (Rosculux R -21), and slipped that into the little groove inside the window bezel on the front of the camera, to the shutter-knob side of the lens. This increases the contrast of the inset RF patch. Same effect as the OKARO rangefinder contrast filter, for 1/100 of the cost.
Slow speeds: they don't work on my III-f... when I first played with the camera, they did; now they don't - no matter what the front knob is set at, the shutter fires at 1/20. The other speeds appear to work fine. I've heard the slow-speeds work on this body, so I'm confident that a CLA will take care of that issue.
Loading: read the thread on loading a "Bottom-Loader", read it several times. Be very careful when trimming the extended leader on your film not to leave any "slits" or extra cuts, or notched sprocket holes - these can catch as you wind the film on, and could result in a jammed camera. You may want to use the "playing-card" trick ( placed between the film gate and the film) as a loading aid on your first attempts...
Lenses: Leitz optical glass and coatings are very soft and delicate (read: easily scratched/damaged). Use a blower / camel-hair brush on lens, then lens tissue / fluid, if necessary. If the lens looks hazy inside, then it will need CLA by a pro.
If the lens has cleaning marks or is uncoated, it may be prone to flare... try to get a lens hood for each lens. I would recommend find a UV filter to keep on the front of your lens, to provide mechanical protection for the Leitz glass.
I have a coated Summicron f 2 / 50mm on my III-f, and wound-up with some INCREDIBLY flared pics, due to internal floccus, cleaning marks, and no hood. Pics taken with the light coming from behind were a lot better.
For the money, it appears to be easier to buy a new / slightly used Cosina-Voightlander lens than an undamaged Leitz lens in the same focal legnth... I still want good Leitz glass for my Barnacks, but finding it may take some time.
Case - looks like yours has nice chrome / vulcanite: you may want to find a leather everready case or Luigi's half-case, to protect the body from wear / bumps while you're out shooting. That Vulcanite gets very brittle, and it deosn't take much of blow on the edge of a door or table to chip / crack the Vulcanite.
I scored a Leitz eveready on e-bay that was missing the front cover; it'll make a fine "half-case". If you do get a Leitz case, make sure it's for the post-war cameras... the earlier bodies are about 1/8" shorter - my 1950 III-F will NOT fit into the case for my 1932 II (D).
That's what I can offer, speaking as a Leitz newbie...
I first saw/handled a thread-mount Leica about 25 years ago, when I was in HS, and knew that eventually I would "have" to have one...
I grew up a "Nikon man", as my Dad had a Nikon S, and that was the first "real camera" I ever saw / shot... but Leitz are nice too !
Enjoy your Barnack !
Luddite Frank
I've had my III-f (s/n 600xxx) about a month now, and really like it. It was my first Barnack camera, and I'm really impressed with it.
My RF was a bit cloudy, so I cleaned the RF lenses as best I could from the outside, then cut a litttle disc of theatrical gel (Rosculux R -21), and slipped that into the little groove inside the window bezel on the front of the camera, to the shutter-knob side of the lens. This increases the contrast of the inset RF patch. Same effect as the OKARO rangefinder contrast filter, for 1/100 of the cost.
Slow speeds: they don't work on my III-f... when I first played with the camera, they did; now they don't - no matter what the front knob is set at, the shutter fires at 1/20. The other speeds appear to work fine. I've heard the slow-speeds work on this body, so I'm confident that a CLA will take care of that issue.
Loading: read the thread on loading a "Bottom-Loader", read it several times. Be very careful when trimming the extended leader on your film not to leave any "slits" or extra cuts, or notched sprocket holes - these can catch as you wind the film on, and could result in a jammed camera. You may want to use the "playing-card" trick ( placed between the film gate and the film) as a loading aid on your first attempts...
Lenses: Leitz optical glass and coatings are very soft and delicate (read: easily scratched/damaged). Use a blower / camel-hair brush on lens, then lens tissue / fluid, if necessary. If the lens looks hazy inside, then it will need CLA by a pro.
If the lens has cleaning marks or is uncoated, it may be prone to flare... try to get a lens hood for each lens. I would recommend find a UV filter to keep on the front of your lens, to provide mechanical protection for the Leitz glass.
I have a coated Summicron f 2 / 50mm on my III-f, and wound-up with some INCREDIBLY flared pics, due to internal floccus, cleaning marks, and no hood. Pics taken with the light coming from behind were a lot better.
For the money, it appears to be easier to buy a new / slightly used Cosina-Voightlander lens than an undamaged Leitz lens in the same focal legnth... I still want good Leitz glass for my Barnacks, but finding it may take some time.
Case - looks like yours has nice chrome / vulcanite: you may want to find a leather everready case or Luigi's half-case, to protect the body from wear / bumps while you're out shooting. That Vulcanite gets very brittle, and it deosn't take much of blow on the edge of a door or table to chip / crack the Vulcanite.
I scored a Leitz eveready on e-bay that was missing the front cover; it'll make a fine "half-case". If you do get a Leitz case, make sure it's for the post-war cameras... the earlier bodies are about 1/8" shorter - my 1950 III-F will NOT fit into the case for my 1932 II (D).
That's what I can offer, speaking as a Leitz newbie...
I first saw/handled a thread-mount Leica about 25 years ago, when I was in HS, and knew that eventually I would "have" to have one...
I grew up a "Nikon man", as my Dad had a Nikon S, and that was the first "real camera" I ever saw / shot... but Leitz are nice too !
Enjoy your Barnack !
Luddite Frank
Last edited:
Paul Michael Dicks
Newbie
Serial numbers
Serial numbers
Your camera was part of a batch of 20,000 numbered 540001-560000 and produced in 1951. It is what is referred to as a Black Dial (B/D).
The lens was part of a batch numbered 756001-840000 and produced in 1950.
Serial numbers
Your camera was part of a batch of 20,000 numbered 540001-560000 and produced in 1951. It is what is referred to as a Black Dial (B/D).
The lens was part of a batch numbered 756001-840000 and produced in 1950.
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
Leica IIIFBD are prone to BAD and DRY curtains and rangefinder beam splitter probs
(dim and dull finders) nothing that can`t be fixed for like under $200 if need be......but do check the camera out well, while these early IIIF`s were still produced during the Post War material shortage times in Germany and sadly things did stuffer in the long term and cameras that were/are stored long have slacking bad slow speeds, dirt, gummed up lubricants etc. etc.
(I have a museum quality 1951 IIFBD that`s sat for years, curtains are dry and dim rangefinder, the cameras near mint though, sometimes NOT using the cameras saved them in that condition for the future)
By 1954 the IIIFRD and the M3 German production standards were as good or even better then pre-war standards, it was also a time when Leica export boomed, especially in the USA
If you need any repairs in that order check out Youxin Ye from Boston , you can Google the name and he will comeup under a Leica FAQ board etc.
Happy Shooting!
Tom
(dim and dull finders) nothing that can`t be fixed for like under $200 if need be......but do check the camera out well, while these early IIIF`s were still produced during the Post War material shortage times in Germany and sadly things did stuffer in the long term and cameras that were/are stored long have slacking bad slow speeds, dirt, gummed up lubricants etc. etc.
(I have a museum quality 1951 IIFBD that`s sat for years, curtains are dry and dim rangefinder, the cameras near mint though, sometimes NOT using the cameras saved them in that condition for the future)
By 1954 the IIIFRD and the M3 German production standards were as good or even better then pre-war standards, it was also a time when Leica export boomed, especially in the USA
If you need any repairs in that order check out Youxin Ye from Boston , you can Google the name and he will comeup under a Leica FAQ board etc.
Happy Shooting!
Tom
Last edited:
John Elder
Well-known
Do your self a BIG favor. As soon as you get the camera, ship it to Youxin Ye for a CLA. Believe me you can afford it. You will have the camera back within 10 days working perfectly AND knowing that it works perfectly. You will be very glad you followed this advice.
kully
Happy Snapper
What John said.
I have a IIIf that has had the Youxin Ye treatment - super smooth - recommended.
I have a IIIf that has had the Youxin Ye treatment - super smooth - recommended.
brachal
Refrigerated User
kully said:
Yes, do it! Youxin is the best! I couldn't believe how affordable it was, and his turnaround time was astonishing. My IIIf RD operates like a new camera now.