itmccb
Member
I'm new to photography and haven't gotten around to buying much yet. So far I've purchased a Mir (hasn't arrived yet) and nothing else, though I've picked out most everything I'd need for a little while and was going to purchase it closer to when my camera arrived. While poking around the internet I found out about ND filters and thought it would be a good idea to get one for my Mir as it's lacking in shutter speeds. I found some variable ND filters on sale for 75% off and thought I shouldn't pass up such a deal and I need help choosing the size (insinuating that's what the mm measurement refers to). It's a 1959 Mir with an Industar-50 (also, would you recommend buying a jupiter-8 to go with it?).
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Soviet cameras are really not ideal to learn with, they often have problems and will likely frustrate you and turn you off photography. If money's an issue, an older Japanese 35mm SLR like a Minolta X700, Pentax K1000, or Olympus OM-2 can be bought CHEAP and will be a 10,000,000,000 times more reliable camera.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
itmccb
Member
@chris: I'm aware, but I think everything will work out fine. My personality fits nicely with problematic, complicated things. It's stimulating. As for the cameras you mentioned, I've already looked into them, found good deals, and will most likely buy them after I get everything worked out.
@buzzard: Thanks. I'll be sure to take a look at that.
EDIT: Regarding the ND filters, they're 200USD variable filters on sale for 50USD. Regardless of whether I'll be able to use it now, I'd like to buy it while I can afford it. Assistance would be nice.
@buzzard: Thanks. I'll be sure to take a look at that.
EDIT: Regarding the ND filters, they're 200USD variable filters on sale for 50USD. Regardless of whether I'll be able to use it now, I'd like to buy it while I can afford it. Assistance would be nice.
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murpograph
Established
I agree, that an elder japanese SLR will be the better choice to start. However you bought the MIR already. Maybe it will work correctly
. When yes then look for Jupiter 12 (35 mm) and a Jupiter 9 (85 mm). If it it doesn't work as it should put it on the shelf and look for a cheap SLR or even a rangefinder with fixed lens and exposure meter.
itmccb
Member
Thanks for the suggestions! I wanted my first film camera to be one I could fall in love with and a quirky Leica-copy named "peace" couldn't be a better fit 
taskoni
Well-known
Hi itmccb and welcome to rff!
Coming from Eastern Europe I can confirm that starting with Soviet camera is nothing to worry about and I am sure you'll do great! You can always buy another camera and for sure you will. Enjoy your Mir and post some pictures
I can not on the ND filters since I am not using. The green and yellow filter on the other hand for B&W photography is worth to try.
Good luck!
Coming from Eastern Europe I can confirm that starting with Soviet camera is nothing to worry about and I am sure you'll do great! You can always buy another camera and for sure you will. Enjoy your Mir and post some pictures
I can not on the ND filters since I am not using. The green and yellow filter on the other hand for B&W photography is worth to try.
Good luck!
cambolt
Green Spotted Nose Turtle
What sort of photography do you plan to do?
1/500 of a second should be fast enough for most applications, depending on your film speed. I have never used faster than 1/500, even with ISO 400 film.
Has the camera you have bought been serviced recently? If not, be ready to shell out for a service. You at very least might want to have it checked by a more experienced photographer to make sure the shutter speeds or accurate... or you will end up with poorly exposed shots.
Good luck.
1/500 of a second should be fast enough for most applications, depending on your film speed. I have never used faster than 1/500, even with ISO 400 film.
Has the camera you have bought been serviced recently? If not, be ready to shell out for a service. You at very least might want to have it checked by a more experienced photographer to make sure the shutter speeds or accurate... or you will end up with poorly exposed shots.
Good luck.
itmccb
Member
Thanks for the reassurance, taskoni
I know the Mir alone will be fine, but the ND filter looks like it could really come in handy and I'd like to buy it while I can work it into my budget.
I know the Mir alone will be fine, but the ND filter looks like it could really come in handy and I'd like to buy it while I can work it into my budget.
oftheherd
Veteran
I am not familiar with the ND filters you talk about, but have heard of them. You might want to look at a set of normal ND filters. I suspect you won't use them as often as you might now think. I have had a set for over 30 years. I seldom use them.
I would also look in to seeing if you will need an adapter. I don't know what mm size your lens for the Mir will need, but it is not likely you will find a variable ND filter in that size.
I would also look in to seeing if you will need an adapter. I don't know what mm size your lens for the Mir will need, but it is not likely you will find a variable ND filter in that size.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
@chris: I'm aware, but I think everything will work out fine. My personality fits nicely with problematic, complicated things. It's stimulating.
Well, if you don't get any help it should be even more stimulating!
itmccb
Member
Well, if you don't get any help it should be even more stimulating!![]()
But what will I do after I burn through all my money with nothing to show for it?
finguanzo
Well-known
I dont think a variable ND filter would be useful. A regular ND filter will help with the limitations of shutter speed that your talking about, but variable, only half the filter is dark. For landscapes usually, were the sky is brighter than land... For size, you need to look at the lens, it usually says if from, brand **mm.. That would be the filter size.
itmccb
Member
I dont think a variable ND filter would be useful. A regular ND filter will help with the limitations of shutter speed that your talking about, but variable, only half the filter is dark. For landscapes usually, were the sky is brighter than land... For size, you need to look at the lens, it usually says if from, brand **mm.. That would be the filter size.
Are you sure that's not graduated you're talking about? The one I'm looking at looks to be something along the lines of parallel polarized filters that block more/less light as you rotate them. As for my camera's lens, I guess that means it's 50mm (industar-50)? The smallest ND filter size I've seen is 52mm. Will that be a problem?
finguanzo
Well-known
O, I see, I think Ive seen the variable ones before. You actually twist the ring for different stops correct..? I mis-understood... as far as the size, I think I read somewhere the industar-50 is a 33mm... Not sure if they make those fancy filters that small.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12581
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12581
efirmage
Established
Filters can be hard to work with even if they're made for your camera. Especially if you're not working with a tripod.
Unless you're sure it will work on your camera I would say pass, it's not essential.
Unless you're sure it will work on your camera I would say pass, it's not essential.
itmccb
Member
I see... It was worth a shot. Thanks for the help!
Tompas
Wannabe Künstler
Get an exposure meter instead of the ND filters. Sekonic or Gossen, preferably.
efirmage
Established
Get an exposure meter instead of the ND filters. Sekonic or Gossen, preferably.
This is wise. Learning how to meter properly is the most important aspect of mastering the technical side of the camera.
williams473
Well-known
I wouldn't worry about having limited shutter speeds - negative film has a wide exposure latitude. A good speed to learn on is ASA 400 - it does it all. You can miss by quite a lot and still be okay. Technical issues should be the least of your concerns starting out - I would simplify your process to one camera, one lens, one film, and one developer - then shoot 40 rolls with that. It's a good learning process that will enforce beginning to learn to "see" photographically without the distractions of the myriad technical options available in photography. By the end of those 40 rolls your techincal skills will also have increased, and you will know your camera. You may have an idea what type of photography appeals to you. Hope that helps.
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