crave1ne
Member
After searching endlessly to find a RF that I could purchase and get into, I finally purchased a Zorki 4 with a Jupiter 8 lens. I'm still waiting on it for the CLA and then being shipped to me. I've been shooting with film since the beginning of 2018. I have a Pentax K1000 and have just gone through 3 rolls of film with a Mamiya C330. I'm not new to 1/500 shutter, no internal light meter, so I don't think that will be a problem for me. I have read the manual 3 times already, and I'm trying to repeat over and over in my head "cock the shutter, then set shutter speed". I've been wanting a RF and have looked for a gateway into them. The Zorki 4 and the FED 2 is where I ended up. And decided to go with the Zorki over the FED, I hope that was a good decision... Anyway, new to the forum, wanted to say hello! I'll be lurking to find out information on my new camera from here, as well as, enjoying the RF community.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I hope you find joy with your Zorki 4, I had a good one, the lens really, a good J-8 can make sharp, contrast-y pics.
crave1ne
Member
I hope you find joy with your Zorki 4, I had a good one, the lens really, a good J-8 can make sharp, contrast-y pics.
That is what I'm hoping for. I purchased it through Oleg Khalyavin. So, I think it'll be in good shape when it comes in.. I'll snap a few photos of it and post them.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I received Z4 as lens cap for J-3. Sold it quick and no regrets. I have three FED-2 now.
Just trying to get even exposures at all speeds. One came as replacement for "serviced" one.
From the same source OP has purchased.
But I'm on the same page with G. Romanov who recently ranked FED-2 as best FSU RF.
This Russian photographer is using FED-2 as the only camera:
https://www.instagram.com/tonyhanson/
https://youtu.be/vCSaPuwnL2A
Just trying to get even exposures at all speeds. One came as replacement for "serviced" one.
From the same source OP has purchased.
But I'm on the same page with G. Romanov who recently ranked FED-2 as best FSU RF.
This Russian photographer is using FED-2 as the only camera:
https://www.instagram.com/tonyhanson/
https://youtu.be/vCSaPuwnL2A
crave1ne
Member
I received Z4 as lens cap for J-3. Sold it quick and no regrets. I have three FED-2 now.
Just trying to get even exposures at all speeds. One came as replacement for "serviced" one.
From the same source OP has purchased.
But I'm on the same page with G. Romanov who recently ranked FED-2 as best FSU RF.
This Russian photographer is using FED-2 as the only camera:
https://www.instagram.com/tonyhanson/
https://youtu.be/vCSaPuwnL2A
It was honestly a toss up between the two. I think I enjoyed the way the Zorki looked alittle more than the FED. I'm sure eventually I'll end up getting a FED. And, I'll have a J8 to go along with it. I do however wish that a 28mm lens would work with out the extra view finder.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Personally I prefer the Zorkii 4K (lever wind) to all but the earliest Feds.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I am awaiting a recently purchased Zorki-3m body. Sort of excited since my FSU experience has been several Zorki-1 and the one Zorki-4.
The 3m seems to me a really good design with large combined range & viewfinder, 1 to 1/1000 on a single knob and built on the small Zorki-1 lower unit, but with a removable back instead of bottom loading.
The 3m seems to me a really good design with large combined range & viewfinder, 1 to 1/1000 on a single knob and built on the small Zorki-1 lower unit, but with a removable back instead of bottom loading.

farlymac
PF McFarland
I bought one once at a camera show, and forgot to do a proper inspection before I did, because it turned out to be junk, and was missing the take-up spool.
But I have a 3 which is similar in layout, except for the combined speed dial on top of the 4. That also makes it slightly taller as the speed dial is on top of the rangefinder housing.
It appears to have the same rangefinder as the 3. The 4 has a heavier copper tint to it, where the 3 is more clear with a slight blue cast. Could be they used more gold in the beamsplitter on the 4. I really like the diopter correction on both.
My 3 has large, swiveling strap lugs, as opposed to the small solid ones of the 4. They look like they could wear out quite fast (though the camera is pretty darn old), so maybe a half case is called for.
If you have a 4 with the engraved name and numbers that is better than one where they were printed, because over time and use they will wear off.
The entire back comes off both cameras making film loading much easier than on a Leica Barnack design. There was a change in the film pressure plate, and bottom cover plate. The bodies and back cover are cast, with deep edge channels, so there is no light blocking material (I've put black thread in the top edge of a couple of mine anyway to help). The shutter button on the 4 is in a more natural place for your finger to fall, whereas on the 3 you have to hunt past the the winding knob to find it.
The 4 is slightly heavier because of the enlarged top cover, and it has a self-timer built in.
Zorki made good cameras, they just weren't made to last a long time without proper care. Good to see you are getting one from Oleg.
PF
But I have a 3 which is similar in layout, except for the combined speed dial on top of the 4. That also makes it slightly taller as the speed dial is on top of the rangefinder housing.
It appears to have the same rangefinder as the 3. The 4 has a heavier copper tint to it, where the 3 is more clear with a slight blue cast. Could be they used more gold in the beamsplitter on the 4. I really like the diopter correction on both.
My 3 has large, swiveling strap lugs, as opposed to the small solid ones of the 4. They look like they could wear out quite fast (though the camera is pretty darn old), so maybe a half case is called for.
If you have a 4 with the engraved name and numbers that is better than one where they were printed, because over time and use they will wear off.
The entire back comes off both cameras making film loading much easier than on a Leica Barnack design. There was a change in the film pressure plate, and bottom cover plate. The bodies and back cover are cast, with deep edge channels, so there is no light blocking material (I've put black thread in the top edge of a couple of mine anyway to help). The shutter button on the 4 is in a more natural place for your finger to fall, whereas on the 3 you have to hunt past the the winding knob to find it.
The 4 is slightly heavier because of the enlarged top cover, and it has a self-timer built in.
Zorki made good cameras, they just weren't made to last a long time without proper care. Good to see you are getting one from Oleg.
PF
crave1ne
Member
I am awaiting a recently purchased Zorki-3m body. Sort of excited since my FSU experience has been several Zorki-1 and the one Zorki-4.
The 3m seems to me a really good design with large combined range & viewfinder, 1 to 1/1000 on a single knob and built on the small Zorki-1 lower unit, but with a removable back instead of bottom loading.
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I didn't even see this camera. 1/1000 is what i'm used to with my pentax. I just know for really sunny days to use 100 iso film with my C330 so I can top out at 1/500 with no problems
skopar steve
Well-known
I have bought 2 cameras from Oleg and would not hesitate to buy from him again. You will find the Zorki 4 a better choice when you get the Jupiter 12. Some Fed 2's have interference with the focusing cam with the 12.
My Zorki 3M from Oleg.
DSCF8896 by Steve Belden, on Flickr
My Zorki 3M from Oleg.

Swift1
Veteran
Congrats on the new camera, and welcome to the forum.
Depending on how it spent its life, the Zorki 4 can be a very good camera. Many have had hard lives, or weren't well cared for, so there is some luck involved with what you get. The same is true with the FED 2.
I've bought 4 different FSU cameras from ebay and all have worked well for the most part.
I've found that the shutters in FSU cameras seem to leak a bit, so it's a good idea to always keep a lens cap on.
On the Zorki 4, you need to careful with the shutter speed dial. Along with never changing speeds until after winding, you have to be careful not to go from 1s to 1/30s (or 1/25s) directly. You need to go from B to that 1/25 position.
I think the Zorki 4 is one of the best looking of all the FSU rangefinder cameras. Opinions vary of course
What year is your Zorki from?
Depending on how it spent its life, the Zorki 4 can be a very good camera. Many have had hard lives, or weren't well cared for, so there is some luck involved with what you get. The same is true with the FED 2.
I've bought 4 different FSU cameras from ebay and all have worked well for the most part.
I've found that the shutters in FSU cameras seem to leak a bit, so it's a good idea to always keep a lens cap on.
On the Zorki 4, you need to careful with the shutter speed dial. Along with never changing speeds until after winding, you have to be careful not to go from 1s to 1/30s (or 1/25s) directly. You need to go from B to that 1/25 position.
I think the Zorki 4 is one of the best looking of all the FSU rangefinder cameras. Opinions vary of course
What year is your Zorki from?
Swift1
Veteran
I didn't even see this camera. 1/1000 is what i'm used to with my pentax. I just know for really sunny days to use 100 iso film with my C330 so I can top out at 1/500 with no problems
FWIW, the Zorki 4 has 1/1000s speed as well.
crave1ne
Member
I have bought 2 cameras from Oleg and would not hesitate to buy from him again. You will find the Zorki 4 a better choice when you get the Jupiter 12. Some Fed 2's have interference with the focusing cam with the 12.
My Zorki 3M from Oleg.
DSCF8896 by Steve Belden, on Flickr
If Im not mistaken... If I go with a J12, wouldn't I need the attached view finder to get the right frame lines? I thought I read that somewhere, that the Zorki 4's View finder can only be used with a 50mm lens?
crave1ne
Member
I didn't see a date for the camera. It does show this "Camera #67643092", and "Jupiter-8 #6751596" .... it is a commemorative 50 year camera... actually, here's a link...
https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_60&product_id=202
I hope that gets you to it...
https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_60&product_id=202
I hope that gets you to it...
Filter Factor
Established
If I understand correctly, those serial numbers correspond to a build date of 1967. Its in the first two digits... "67".
Oh, and you can use many different lenses on your Zorki-4, but anything other than the usual 50mm will require an auxiliary viewfinder. Welcome to the quirky world of film rangefinders!
Oh, and you can use many different lenses on your Zorki-4, but anything other than the usual 50mm will require an auxiliary viewfinder. Welcome to the quirky world of film rangefinders!
crave1ne
Member
so what auxiliary viewfinder would be a good investment?
Swift1
Veteran
I didn't see a date for the camera. It does show this "Camera #67643092", and "Jupiter-8 #6751596" .... it is a commemorative 50 year camera... actually, here's a link...
https://okvintagecamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/product&path=33_60&product_id=202
I hope that gets you to it...
That should be a 1967 camera and lens. The last variant with strap lugs, and should also have engraved markings.
crave1ne
Member
I'm already looking into a leather strap for it... just haven't found one i like and in a good price range... I think I'd much rather have a strap then the leather case/strap
Swift1
Veteran
so what auxiliary viewfinder would be a good investment?
If you plan on getting a Jupiter-12, the KMZ made plastic 3.5cm (35mm) auxiliary finder is fairly inexpensive and easy to find. It doesn't have framelines, but the entire finder shows roughly the field of view of a 35mm lens.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
If you plan on getting a Jupiter-12, the KMZ made plastic 3.5cm (35mm) auxiliary finder is fairly inexpensive and easy to find. It doesn't have framelines, but the entire finder shows roughly the field of view of a 35mm lens.
And all viewfinders are only roughly accurate, after all. You can get used to (almost) anything, and compensate accordingly.
Cheers,
R.
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