Swift1
Veteran
Agreed 🙂
For a few years now, I've been composing with a 35mm lens and no viewfinder whatsoever 😀
New to the world of Zorki 4...
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Agreed 🙂
For a few years now, I've been composing with a 35mm lens and no viewfinder whatsoever 😀
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
I have bought a few of those "Tele-Wide" finders for 15-20 bucks, pretty bright with a fairly low profile and not in the way of the shutter dial too much.
tunalegs
Pretended Artist
The Zorki 4 is probably the best rangefinder to come out of the old Soviet Union - in fact I wouldn't hesitate to call it one of the best thread mount rangefinders period. The 4K fixed the only problem with the 4, the laughably anti-ergonomic wind knob, but also deletes the strap lugs which introduces another problem. 🙄
I've had three 4s and one 4K, and never had issues with any of them, except the 4K which had non-functioning slow speeds.
One 4 got stolen out of my car, the other I lent to a friend (who still has it, I think/hope), and the last one I use every now and then myself, and greatly prefer to use compared to the Leica IIIf I've got. You can find rangefinders with more features, better fit and finish, and smoother mechanisms, but the Zorki does what all of the others do, where it counts.
I've had three 4s and one 4K, and never had issues with any of them, except the 4K which had non-functioning slow speeds.
One 4 got stolen out of my car, the other I lent to a friend (who still has it, I think/hope), and the last one I use every now and then myself, and greatly prefer to use compared to the Leica IIIf I've got. You can find rangefinders with more features, better fit and finish, and smoother mechanisms, but the Zorki does what all of the others do, where it counts.
css9450
Veteran
I agree. I've seemed to track down my light leaks to a little that gets in between the first and second curtain, perhaps if slack is introduced during the notoriously "short throw" winding motion. I solve that problem by being certain to always have a lens cap on especially while winding the film. I also put a little black gaffer's tape on the sides of the camera to seal the back against leaks. It ain't pretty but it has cut down my light leaks to nothing.
I also placed a shim under both the takeup spool and the film canister to keep them in the proper orientation. Without the shims, the film canister and (especially) the takeup spool would hang down and the film would ride too low across the film plane. Thus, I could see the sprocket holes on the edge of the developed negative. And worse, one time the film tore due to some tension between the sprocket teeth and the film's desire to ride low on the film plane (it seems the camera was designed for the old, Leica-style reloadable canisters which were taller than modern ones).
kamil_k
Member
Welcome to the marvellous world of Zorkis. Hope you will enjoy it. There are many things I like about those cameras. For me it's definitely one of the most user friendlies FSU rangefinders. I have 2 Zorkis 4K - one which I bought in an excellent condition about 15 years ago and is still working well. The other joined me not so much time ago as I noticed that it's faster, more convinient and cheaper to order an CLA'd camera from FSU than to let anyone CLA the camera locally.
Over the time I figured out sevral steps to make the camera more user friendly/convinient/reliable to use.
1) I replace the light seal made of string with proper material - foam works the best in my case
2) This one is just for my eyes and my taste - I reskin the camera with vulcanite leatherette. Akiasahi is my supplier of choice. I don't like the original cloth leatherette and vulcanite gives camera a classy look.
3) I convert the original leather case to half-case. I replace original snaps and add gypsy stud inbetween. This solves the problem with the missing strap lugs. Half caswalso makes the camera a bit quieter.
4) Last but not least - I added a long thumb up grip. Once I ordered one for my Fuji x100 and found it too long for that camera. Then I tried it out on Zorki - it was my discovery of the centrury. Since then the camera lies in my hand like a dream. There just enough space between the grip and the advance leaver.
Over the time I figured out sevral steps to make the camera more user friendly/convinient/reliable to use.
1) I replace the light seal made of string with proper material - foam works the best in my case
2) This one is just for my eyes and my taste - I reskin the camera with vulcanite leatherette. Akiasahi is my supplier of choice. I don't like the original cloth leatherette and vulcanite gives camera a classy look.
3) I convert the original leather case to half-case. I replace original snaps and add gypsy stud inbetween. This solves the problem with the missing strap lugs. Half caswalso makes the camera a bit quieter.
4) Last but not least - I added a long thumb up grip. Once I ordered one for my Fuji x100 and found it too long for that camera. Then I tried it out on Zorki - it was my discovery of the centrury. Since then the camera lies in my hand like a dream. There just enough space between the grip and the advance leaver.
crave1ne
Member
I've wondered about reskining camera's. I may just have a look into this. I know the one I picked up has some water damage to it, so it may need a reskin.
The case has never really been very eye catching. The one that I purchased has the lugs for a strap, so I'm sure I'll go that route. Could you post a photo of the thumb grip you are using? Would be interested to see it.
Also, changing shutter speeds, AFTER cocking the shutter. It has never made sense to me that this is even that hard to remember. With both my K1000 and my C330. When I've shot a frame I always advance the film right after before changing any settings at all on the camera. Cocking the shutter on the Zorki 4, thats also advancing the film as well correct? I've never taking a photo, and then changed the settings and then advanced the film before... Am I not understanding this correctly with the FSU camera's that "cocking the shutter" is advancing the film frame as well?
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
The Zorki 1's had a cooked-on skin, it doesn't peel off in sheets. The model 3's above have cooked-on Vulcanite. Somewhere in the time line the KMZ switched to glued-on sheets of covering, and can be removed and renewed.
The shutter and film are wound on together, yes, and then the speed can be changed. If you forget, and change the speed, then wind on, the speed can be changed back, before snapping the shutter, with no danger.
The shutter and film are wound on together, yes, and then the speed can be changed. If you forget, and change the speed, then wind on, the speed can be changed back, before snapping the shutter, with no danger.
kamil_k
Member
The grip I use is similar to this one.
I am not sure if this one would work with the Zorki 4 - I have advance leaver instead of the knob. There are many variations of thumb grips over the internet so I'm sure it is possible to find one which would not interfere with the knob.
Yes - advancing the film is also cocking the shutter. I think it also applies to all cameras, not only to FSU - do not leave the shutter cocked for a long time (ie. when you store the camera).
I am not sure if this one would work with the Zorki 4 - I have advance leaver instead of the knob. There are many variations of thumb grips over the internet so I'm sure it is possible to find one which would not interfere with the knob.
Yes - advancing the film is also cocking the shutter. I think it also applies to all cameras, not only to FSU - do not leave the shutter cocked for a long time (ie. when you store the camera).
crave1ne
Member
Now this i did not know...
wolves3012
Veteran
Respectfully, I have to disagree with that. It all depends on the model and which way you change the speeds. On models with one-piece shutter dials (e.g. Zorki 1) and any of them with "slow" speeds (i.e. most of the later models), if you change to a slower speed and then wind on, this is exactly what can break the shutter mechanism. Usually this requires ignorance or carelessness and some force but I wouldn't want to promise that!
wolves3012
Veteran
It's true for most mechanical shutters. When you cock the shutter, you are winding up springs that are normally (more or less) unwound. Leaving a spring wound up may, eventually, weaken it.
kamil_k
Member
There is also one more thing. If you don't use the camera for longer time don't leave it on slow shutter speeds (marked red on the dial). In both of those cases you don't want the springs in the shutter mechanism to stay unnecessarily under tension for too long time.
crave1ne
Member
I don't see using slower speeds... At least not for what I want to use the camera for. Usually when doing slower shutter speeds its with my C330 on a tripod. But I'll keep this in mind for sure
tunalegs
Pretended Artist
I think the "don't leave the shutter" cocked idea is basically a myth. The shutter springs are already pre-loaded, they're always under tension, and cocking the shutter only adds slightly more tension to this (if they had no preload, it would be impossible to have accurate shutter speeds and anything approximating even shutter curtain travel). Now, leaving the shutter cocked on a slow speed causes a different issue, because the slow speeds are regulated by a clockwork escapement mechanism, and if set to a slow speed and left for several years, the lubricants can dry out and leave the slow speed mech sticking, preventing the shutter from firing.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Thank you for that! I do not remember which camera I am remembering changing the speed before winding, I may have changed it back before I wound it, and hoped I placed it in the right speed. I guess remembering things is the problem.
wolves3012
Veteran
Almost certainly correct. However, it does depend on the quality of the springs used and how long it's left under tension. I wouldn't want to bet on the FSU materials being top quality though, so it does no harm not to leave it cocked. It's not something I've ever fretted over but as someone with "mechanical sympathy" I try to avoid it.
It's certainly true that in old (as in, very old) watches and clocks the spings deteriorate due to long-term tension. Modern materials should not suffer this problem.
crave1ne
Member
So I just received my Zorki 4 in the mail today.. its a BEAUT! I can't wait to put a roll of film through it. Question, Im having a hard time trying to get the film counter to move, should I even care about that? I'll post some pics later once I get off of work.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Roger Hicks
Veteran
David Hughes
David Hughes
Shutter Springs, Tension etc
Years and years ago you could send the broken parts of any spring to Terry's and, for a fee, they would make you a duplicate.
I was speaking to them once in the 60's about this and they told me that a spring doing the job it was designed to do would last almost forever if properly designed and used. This made me wonder if they were always consulted about the springs and did the design work or if people bought the basic materials and bent them to shape but didn't quite know how to do it...
Anyway, there it is fwiw. I just hope this doesn't start yet another garbled internet myth.
Regards, David
Years and years ago you could send the broken parts of any spring to Terry's and, for a fee, they would make you a duplicate.
I was speaking to them once in the 60's about this and they told me that a spring doing the job it was designed to do would last almost forever if properly designed and used. This made me wonder if they were always consulted about the springs and did the design work or if people bought the basic materials and bent them to shape but didn't quite know how to do it...
Anyway, there it is fwiw. I just hope this doesn't start yet another garbled internet myth.
Regards, David
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