Brian Atherton
Well-known
Having stated here on the RFF not so long ago that I wouldn’t consider purchasing the Fuji X-Pro2 until it had a movable screen, Tuesday I did just that!
Fed up with carting about a heavy Nikon SLR and 18-200mm lens on the occasions I want to use a digital, I decided to PX the camera and lens and buy the X-Pro2 with the 23mm f2 WR and the 35mm f1.4, which are the equivalent 35mm format focal lengths I use for 90 per cent of my photography.
I have no connection with Park Cameras in Rathbone Place, London, other than dropping by Tuesday to consider the Fuji but I have to say I would recommend them for anyone in and around the London area. The staff are a friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic bunch in a modern, well-stocked shop that spent time to show me the X-Pro2 and lenses, throwing in for free a limited edition leather X-Pro2 strap and a beautiful Millican/Fujifilm X-Pro2 bag.
Anyway, I digress…
My question to experienced X-Pro2 users is: are there any tips you can pass on to a new user? – one whose first love is black and white film with Leica Ms.
Thank you in anticipation for your help.
Fed up with carting about a heavy Nikon SLR and 18-200mm lens on the occasions I want to use a digital, I decided to PX the camera and lens and buy the X-Pro2 with the 23mm f2 WR and the 35mm f1.4, which are the equivalent 35mm format focal lengths I use for 90 per cent of my photography.
I have no connection with Park Cameras in Rathbone Place, London, other than dropping by Tuesday to consider the Fuji but I have to say I would recommend them for anyone in and around the London area. The staff are a friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic bunch in a modern, well-stocked shop that spent time to show me the X-Pro2 and lenses, throwing in for free a limited edition leather X-Pro2 strap and a beautiful Millican/Fujifilm X-Pro2 bag.
Anyway, I digress…
My question to experienced X-Pro2 users is: are there any tips you can pass on to a new user? – one whose first love is black and white film with Leica Ms.
Thank you in anticipation for your help.
Peter David Grant
Well-known
I've recently gotten mine, but am loving using it already. I shoot with Acros on, and basically always use the EVF over the OVF.
If you use the OVF, I suggest putting AF/MF Settings>Page 2>Corrected AF Frame: On, as this shows where AF was made given the parallax issues.
I shoot it set to MF, and then have swapped the AE-L and AF-L buttons, so when I press AE-L I get autofocus, then after that the camera leaves the focus there, so I don't have to focus on each and every shot. I swapped them because the AF-L button is in a completely useless place when hand holding the camera. If you want to change this, it is in Set Up>Button/Dial Setting>AE-L/AF-L Button Settings.
Finally, I have the View Mode set to OVF only, without the sensor, as I don't want to have to wait for the sensor to pick up that I want to shoot, and then bring up the EVF. If I want to use the screen I just hit the button for those shots.
Hope this helps!
Peter
If you use the OVF, I suggest putting AF/MF Settings>Page 2>Corrected AF Frame: On, as this shows where AF was made given the parallax issues.
I shoot it set to MF, and then have swapped the AE-L and AF-L buttons, so when I press AE-L I get autofocus, then after that the camera leaves the focus there, so I don't have to focus on each and every shot. I swapped them because the AF-L button is in a completely useless place when hand holding the camera. If you want to change this, it is in Set Up>Button/Dial Setting>AE-L/AF-L Button Settings.
Finally, I have the View Mode set to OVF only, without the sensor, as I don't want to have to wait for the sensor to pick up that I want to shoot, and then bring up the EVF. If I want to use the screen I just hit the button for those shots.
Hope this helps!
Peter
Canyongazer
Canyongazer
Brian,
Peter is right, that's good AF advice.
Also, to insure AF activation as you might like it, may I suggest a red dab of this
https://sugru.com/
on that AF button...
It will create a helpful visual and tactile aide.
Brian...You say are in Blighty....is that Old Blighty?
Is there but one Blighty?
Regards,
Canyongazer
Clueless on the left side of the Atlantic
Peter is right, that's good AF advice.
Also, to insure AF activation as you might like it, may I suggest a red dab of this
https://sugru.com/
on that AF button...
It will create a helpful visual and tactile aide.
Brian...You say are in Blighty....is that Old Blighty?
Is there but one Blighty?
Regards,
Canyongazer
Clueless on the left side of the Atlantic
shawn
Veteran
Put it in high performance mode.
Turn on the distance scale for MF and AF in the EVF and OVF.
Change the Exposure meter from analog to digital in the OVF it is much easier to see.
If you like B&W spend time with ACROS. Do not turn on the grain option with ACROS. If you want more grain increase ISO, grain is built into ACROS.
For JPEGs I usually have NR = -4. If I am shooting really high ISO I might make that -2.
Customize your buttons to minimize how often you need to go into the menus. I use:
FN for film mode
Right for Auto ISO modes
Down for AF mode
Left for Face Detect settings
Front button (viewfinder button) for bright lines
Then just take your time an explore. The ERF mode is really nice as you get the OVF + EVF for focus point or overall scene view.
For AF-S for scenes or relatively static people I use single point focus mode with face detect on. Camera set to release priority.
For action AF-C, zone focus, face detect off and FOCUS priority on which really helps reduce hunting and lets the camera track action easily.
Have fun,
Shawn
Turn on the distance scale for MF and AF in the EVF and OVF.
Change the Exposure meter from analog to digital in the OVF it is much easier to see.
If you like B&W spend time with ACROS. Do not turn on the grain option with ACROS. If you want more grain increase ISO, grain is built into ACROS.
For JPEGs I usually have NR = -4. If I am shooting really high ISO I might make that -2.
Customize your buttons to minimize how often you need to go into the menus. I use:
FN for film mode
Right for Auto ISO modes
Down for AF mode
Left for Face Detect settings
Front button (viewfinder button) for bright lines
Then just take your time an explore. The ERF mode is really nice as you get the OVF + EVF for focus point or overall scene view.
For AF-S for scenes or relatively static people I use single point focus mode with face detect on. Camera set to release priority.
For action AF-C, zone focus, face detect off and FOCUS priority on which really helps reduce hunting and lets the camera track action easily.
Have fun,
Shawn
willie_901
Veteran
Along with the excellent advice that proceeds me...
Disable all power saving Menu options.
Buy at least two additional batteries and keep them charged.
I would start by learning how to set up the AF Menu parameters for focus and recompose. Later you can explore more sophisticated AF tools.
In the beginning use the least amount of automation (especially auto-ISO). Add automated features slowly. Never use let the camera decide when to use the electronic shutter. In fact ignore the ES unless you are desperate. People become frustrated when they experience unintended results because they delegate too many decisions to the camera. Though once you understand how the automation functions interact, they can be useful.
The X-Pro 2 is really two different cameras depending on whether or not you use the EVF or OVF. So stick with one finder mode until you master it. Switching back and forth can be frustrating until you understand the differences between the two modes.
Just like an optical RF, the X-Pro 2's virtual OVF frame lines and focus regions are only estimates. This means the AF can lock on a subject near, but at a very different distance than the intended focus subject. There are OVF finder modes that let you quickly check focus region selection.
The X-Pro2 2 is unique because it's data stream uses a dual-gain techniology. This was discussed here previously (link). Unlike practically all other digital cameras the X-Pro2 has two base ISOs, 200 and 800, so ISO selection strategies are different. For raw you can use ISO 200 in normal light and 800 in low light. Then you adjust global brightness in post-production. This simplifies using the camera. Except for sensor overexposure you can ignore the meter. This will not work well for in-camera JPEGs. At any rate, understanding how to get the most out of the dual-gain technology will result in the best shadow detail and analog dynamic range. This can make a difference in low light.
Both your lenses are excellent. The 35/1.4 AF motor technology is a bit slow and the focus-by-wire lens barrel is less refined than newer Fujinon lenses. Though with the X-Pro 2 this should not be a significant handicap.
Disable all power saving Menu options.
Buy at least two additional batteries and keep them charged.
I would start by learning how to set up the AF Menu parameters for focus and recompose. Later you can explore more sophisticated AF tools.
In the beginning use the least amount of automation (especially auto-ISO). Add automated features slowly. Never use let the camera decide when to use the electronic shutter. In fact ignore the ES unless you are desperate. People become frustrated when they experience unintended results because they delegate too many decisions to the camera. Though once you understand how the automation functions interact, they can be useful.
The X-Pro 2 is really two different cameras depending on whether or not you use the EVF or OVF. So stick with one finder mode until you master it. Switching back and forth can be frustrating until you understand the differences between the two modes.
Just like an optical RF, the X-Pro 2's virtual OVF frame lines and focus regions are only estimates. This means the AF can lock on a subject near, but at a very different distance than the intended focus subject. There are OVF finder modes that let you quickly check focus region selection.
The X-Pro2 2 is unique because it's data stream uses a dual-gain techniology. This was discussed here previously (link). Unlike practically all other digital cameras the X-Pro2 has two base ISOs, 200 and 800, so ISO selection strategies are different. For raw you can use ISO 200 in normal light and 800 in low light. Then you adjust global brightness in post-production. This simplifies using the camera. Except for sensor overexposure you can ignore the meter. This will not work well for in-camera JPEGs. At any rate, understanding how to get the most out of the dual-gain technology will result in the best shadow detail and analog dynamic range. This can make a difference in low light.
Both your lenses are excellent. The 35/1.4 AF motor technology is a bit slow and the focus-by-wire lens barrel is less refined than newer Fujinon lenses. Though with the X-Pro 2 this should not be a significant handicap.
Brian Atherton
Well-known
Thank you all for taking the time to share your insights and tips, which I found excellent.
Currently I’m using the camera in MF mode with aperture priority.
I very quickly found that I would need at least two spare batteries for all day and evening shooting. I understand and acknowledge there’s a price to pay for cameras being made smaller and lighter but coming from a Nikon D90 whose battery could last for up to two-plus days is a whole new experience!
For now I’m sticking with the EVF. As mentioned by Willie, the OVF frame lines are an approximation but their inaccuracy surprised me, especially with the 35mm lens; far less accurate than both of my Leica Ms.
I agree, the X-Pro2 has a slit personality whether the OVF or EVF is chosen; for now I’m using the EVF principally for its framing accuracy, and, despite reservations about viewing through a EVF compared to an OVF, I haven’t found the experience unpleasant or irksome.
Early days, but I’m glad I made the switch to a smaller camera that suit my needs better. I am utterly blown away by the X-Pro2’s IQ, even at Medium image size, and its low-light capability and IQ is way above my D90.
Negatives? Minor points, but I would like the exposure compensation dial to be stiffer and its indents heavier - likewise the lens aperture click-stops; they’re just to easily moved accidentally… and I would prefer lens aperture half-stops rather than thirds.
Oh... Canyongazer Blighty was an informal term for Britain or England, used by British soldiers of both World Wars.
Currently I’m using the camera in MF mode with aperture priority.
I very quickly found that I would need at least two spare batteries for all day and evening shooting. I understand and acknowledge there’s a price to pay for cameras being made smaller and lighter but coming from a Nikon D90 whose battery could last for up to two-plus days is a whole new experience!
For now I’m sticking with the EVF. As mentioned by Willie, the OVF frame lines are an approximation but their inaccuracy surprised me, especially with the 35mm lens; far less accurate than both of my Leica Ms.
I agree, the X-Pro2 has a slit personality whether the OVF or EVF is chosen; for now I’m using the EVF principally for its framing accuracy, and, despite reservations about viewing through a EVF compared to an OVF, I haven’t found the experience unpleasant or irksome.
Early days, but I’m glad I made the switch to a smaller camera that suit my needs better. I am utterly blown away by the X-Pro2’s IQ, even at Medium image size, and its low-light capability and IQ is way above my D90.
Negatives? Minor points, but I would like the exposure compensation dial to be stiffer and its indents heavier - likewise the lens aperture click-stops; they’re just to easily moved accidentally… and I would prefer lens aperture half-stops rather than thirds.
Oh... Canyongazer Blighty was an informal term for Britain or England, used by British soldiers of both World Wars.
shawn
Veteran
"for now I’m using the EVF principally for its framing accuracy, and, despite reservations about viewing through a EVF compared to an OVF, I haven’t found the experience unpleasant or irksome."
I am surprised you find the 35mm frame lines really inaccurate. I find them very close to the actual captured image. If you haven't tried it yet give the ERF mode a try. Put the camera in OVF mode (single point AF mode) then push that lever toward the lens. A small EVF window will pop up in the lower right corner. By pressing the rear command dial you can change that window from being two different zoom levels of the focus point or have it be the overall framing of the shot. That lets you use the OVF while still quickly checking framing if desired. It will also let you use the OVF and MF any lens.
Shawn
I am surprised you find the 35mm frame lines really inaccurate. I find them very close to the actual captured image. If you haven't tried it yet give the ERF mode a try. Put the camera in OVF mode (single point AF mode) then push that lever toward the lens. A small EVF window will pop up in the lower right corner. By pressing the rear command dial you can change that window from being two different zoom levels of the focus point or have it be the overall framing of the shot. That lets you use the OVF while still quickly checking framing if desired. It will also let you use the OVF and MF any lens.
Shawn
Peter David Grant
Well-known
Oh this is genius - I was sure there must be a way to go to the overall frame, but wouldn't have thought the rear dial. Thanks for mentioning this one Shawn!
dee
Well-known
Does this all apply to my new X-Pro 1 , bought a week ago ?
Thanks
dee
Thanks
dee
shawn
Veteran
Erf is not in the XP1. It was added to the XP2.
The AF is very different between the two as well.
Shawn
The AF is very different between the two as well.
Shawn
froyd
Veteran
I admire everybody's ability to keep the thread on topic after canyongazer's post. I'm still picking up my jaw from the floor after checking out that sugru link.
Canyongazer
Canyongazer
Thanks for the clarification, Brian.
We'll be visiting Blighty in November (London, Cornwall)
Quite chuffed about it. ;-)
We'll be visiting Blighty in November (London, Cornwall)
Quite chuffed about it. ;-)
Canyongazer
Canyongazer
Glad you liked, Froyd...
it does work as advertised, at least in the applications I've tried.
It IS nice to hit that AF-On button immediately, every time, without looking.
it does work as advertised, at least in the applications I've tried.
It IS nice to hit that AF-On button immediately, every time, without looking.
Brian Atherton
Well-known
Shawn, thank you for posting the brilliant tip of using the rear Command Dial to alter the magnification of the small EVF window… as Peter David Grant wrote: genius!
So, kind of a reverse trip to my visit to Austin this April, when I arrived there after a road trip from Santa Barbara CA! I had a really enjoyable time in Austin, wandering the city and soaking up the atmosphere; especially enjoyed long hikes from city centre along the Colorado River and back into town. Thoroughly took to the microbrewery and BBQ scene, together with sampling great music.
Canyongazer, if London is your first time or if you want advice, PM, I’ll be happy to help out.
So, kind of a reverse trip to my visit to Austin this April, when I arrived there after a road trip from Santa Barbara CA! I had a really enjoyable time in Austin, wandering the city and soaking up the atmosphere; especially enjoyed long hikes from city centre along the Colorado River and back into town. Thoroughly took to the microbrewery and BBQ scene, together with sampling great music.
Canyongazer, if London is your first time or if you want advice, PM, I’ll be happy to help out.
Canyongazer
Canyongazer
Brian, I've been to London a few times as well as the Cotswold, Yorkshire and the Lakes District but certainly don't pretend to know what's what like a native...
This will be first time in Cornwall.
any and all tips are welcome!
This will be first time in Cornwall.
any and all tips are welcome!
Brian Atherton
Well-known
Canyongazer,
Although I’ve visited Cornwall on and off over the years, I’m perhaps not the best person to sing the county’s praises.
My wife and I love the quaint cove villages seemingly stuck to the cliffs or wedged between, and the sparse and beautiful countryside and coastal hiking paths… but, I’m afraid, not during the school summer holidays (end of July to the beginning of September, when Cornwall’s lanes and narrow roads around the popular coastal areas become choked with vehicles. Also, unless one is on a coach, with a seat elevated above the tall hedges, vision in many places is restricted in a car to a tunnel view along the road.
For all this, it’s a wonderful part of Britain, and we love it dearly, especially off-season, when traffic volume is less, and the coastal walks are ‘bracing’ in the variable weather. After a long walk there’s nothing better than a pint or three of Tribute in a snug and warm pub.
I’m sure as a proud and knowledgeable Cornishman, Roger Hicks is far better qualified than me to advise and enlighten you, Canyongazer.
Have a wonderful trip.
Although I’ve visited Cornwall on and off over the years, I’m perhaps not the best person to sing the county’s praises.
My wife and I love the quaint cove villages seemingly stuck to the cliffs or wedged between, and the sparse and beautiful countryside and coastal hiking paths… but, I’m afraid, not during the school summer holidays (end of July to the beginning of September, when Cornwall’s lanes and narrow roads around the popular coastal areas become choked with vehicles. Also, unless one is on a coach, with a seat elevated above the tall hedges, vision in many places is restricted in a car to a tunnel view along the road.
For all this, it’s a wonderful part of Britain, and we love it dearly, especially off-season, when traffic volume is less, and the coastal walks are ‘bracing’ in the variable weather. After a long walk there’s nothing better than a pint or three of Tribute in a snug and warm pub.
I’m sure as a proud and knowledgeable Cornishman, Roger Hicks is far better qualified than me to advise and enlighten you, Canyongazer.
Have a wonderful trip.