SamTheMan
Newbie
Hi,
My pristine Yashica GSN arrives this week. Since I have 7 days to return it, what would this experienced group of users recommend that I look for/test that is unique to Yashicas? It even looks like the seals are in great shape. Thank you and I look forward to reading your responses.
My pristine Yashica GSN arrives this week. Since I have 7 days to return it, what would this experienced group of users recommend that I look for/test that is unique to Yashicas? It even looks like the seals are in great shape. Thank you and I look forward to reading your responses.
bmattock
Veteran
SamTheMan said:
Since the GSN sets its own shutter speed, it is entirely dependent upon the battery and the meter. You should have a new or 'known good' battery or adapter standing by to test with.
The battery has a self-test that lights up, but that's not enough. That just tells you that the battery is capable of lighting the light, not that the meter works. So set the film speed to something appropriate, such as ASA 400, and point the camera towards a light source. With no film in the camera, wind and fire, leaving the f-stop alone and moving the camera to point at dark areas and light areas. What you're doing is listening for changes in the shutter speed. Make sure you don't obscure the meter reading opening when you do this, of course. If all the shutter speeds sound alike, you have a rock. Default shutter speed is 1/500 for the GSN if the meter does not work, and no way to vary it. If, on the other hand, it appears to be making long shutter noises and short shutter noises appriately, then proceed to step two.
Load some color print film and go shooting.
Keep a notebook log entry of every shot. If you have an external meter, keep track of what the indicated shutter speed/f-stop would be.
You can over and underexpose intentionally with the GSN by varying the ASA dial to a faster or slower film. Do so. Keep track of which frames are which.
Try to take some shots into the sun (not directly) to test the ability of the lens to resist flare. The GSN is usually pretty good at this.
Do some closeups, make note of what you are focusing on. You will be using your notes to determine if the rangefinder patch is correctly aligned.
When you are done, get the roll processed and printed and scanned, if you don't have the facilities to do the scanning yourself.
The prints will help you identify any light leaks or flare problems. The CD will help you to find any problems with that and with closeup focusing.
Check the film frames themselves - the frames you over and under exposed should LOOK darker and lighter respectively. If the darkest frames printed / scanned the best, then the metering is off one direction; if the lightest frames were best, then the metering is off the other direction. If in the middle, you're in the groove, 5x5.
There are probably some other things that you could look at. If you're a lens navel-gazer, you'll want to get a loupe or a enlarger lens (makes a great loupe) and examine the surface of the lens looking for micron-sized things to object to - this is considered great sport among the Leicaphiles and nothing will ever live up to your expectations. On the other hand, great honking huge scratches should not be overlooked. It all depends upon how your boogaloo situation stands, you understand.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
SamTheMan
Newbie
Thank you Bill, I really appreciate your help and direction. I'll keep you posted...