Newbie Help: Spooling MF film

[sooner]

Hello All,

I have been developing my own 35mm b&w film for a short while now, and recently decided to shoot some 120 Fuji Neopan in my Yashica D TLR. However, I've never loaded one of them on the spool, in the dark closet, and am wondering if there is any trick to it or things to watch out for. For example, how much of a leader is there to cut off? Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions. --John/sooner

 

[f/stopblues]

120 is kind of a different beast in the changing bag. There's the paper backing of course, lack of sprocket holes on the edges, and the sheer size and ease of binding it, etc. I'd highly recommend sacrificing an unexposed roll in the name of learning just to see what your blind hands will be facing.

There's going to be a piece of tape attaching the paper backing with the actual film. As far as I've seen, its usually masking tape-like so peels easily. The other option is to detach it from the paper and fold it over on the film. I stay away from this just cause I dunno about the adhesive being in the chemistry.. probably no effect but I'm paranoid.

I usually take all the excess junk off and work with just the actual film. It'll roll back up itself. The leader (not actual leader, but the blank space before the photos) depends on the camera, but on the Mamiya TLR I used to have and my 6x7 Bronica now, both are pretty short. One frame maybe.

The trickiest part IMO is getting the film centered in the spool so it feeds correctly. I get the end clamped in there initially and then gently make adjustments til it feels like the edges are even in relation to the edges of the spool. If you don't get that part right then rolling it on the spool will be difficult and messy.

Once you get that, give it a soft touch and spin the spool around and just guide the film in there.. let it align itself. If you feel it get hung up just back up a few cm and keep going. Just like 35mm but a little more touchy. Good luck!

 

[kaiyen]

Perhaps my page will help a bit...

http://photos.kaiyen.com/pages/reels_tanks.html

allan

 

[RayPA]

Along with what Chris said (and Allan points to), I find that it is a LOT easier to load 120 film onto stainless steel reels. If you can load 35mm onto ss reels, you'll have no problem loading 120.



🙂

 

[f/stopblues]

Ah good point Ray.. my post was regarding stainless reels FYI!

 

[sooner]

Thank you, gentlemen, these are very helpful pointers, and the pictures on Allan's website help a lot. I will be using a plastic reel that expands to handle 120 format, which on Allan's site says is fairly easy. I was mostly curious about separating the backing from the film, and again Allan's pictures helped. The roll features just more shots of my kids, so no great loss if I screw something up because I can just shoot 'em again. Thanks again.

 

[impact07]

For me, rolling 120 on the reel is easier than 35. I use steel reels. As far as a leader is concerned, all you'll need to do is untape the film from the paper at the end of the roll. No cutting needed.

 

[kaiyen]

If you're going to use plastic reels, be very, very wary of the paterson type. You'll want the AP Photo or Samigon type. The differences are displayed on my page. I have _always_ gotten crinkled film with the Paterson style.

allan

 

[JMP]

Chris gives some good advice, though everyone does it a little differently. For instance, I leave the tape connecting the backing paper to the film on the film and just fold it over- no problems. It seems obvious, but make sure that what you're loading onto the reel is the film and not the backing; in the dark it can be a little difficult to distinguish at first.
My method (metal reel):
1. Hold the reel in left hand, grasp beginning of unrolled film in right, leave the rest of the roll on the table
2. Push little clip on reel and insert a bit of film (1/2"), trying to keep it straight and centered (as Chris says- the most important step and likely to determine the ease of loading)
3. Begin turning reel (left hand) while cupping film slightly to ease it into the slots (right hand), after a few turns I count the number of "rings" left by feel to be sure the film is loading evenly- if not, I reverse it until the count is even
Hope this helps.

 

[sooner]

Thanks again, all. Most of all, I hear how important it is to go slowly and back up when the film starts to go stray or crinkle. --John

 

[derevaun]

I use a nail clippers to round off the corners of the edge going onto the reel. When the film is started, it's helpful to keep your thumbs right at the entry slot on the plastic reels to keep the film running in flat. Also make sure the reels are totally dry and clean--running them through a dishwasher gets 'em smooth enough for me.

On one occasion the tape came off and roved around the tank, but that was with an hour long development regime.

 

[Justin Low]

Allan, that's a very good resource for beginners. Thanks for posting it!

Personally, I find the JOBO tanks and reels far superior to the Paterson ones. They require less chemicals than the Paterson (250ml vs. 300ml for a single rolls), and the tanks don't leak. I can load a roll much faster, and have never had a jam because there are no ball-bearings. Instead, the friction comes from your finger. You could also 'slide' the entire roll of film into the reel.

Saves chemicals for 120 too, because the reels come with a stop. You load the first roll all the way in the reel, and attach the stop, then you load the second reel. Two rolls of 120 in 485ml. No problems with overlapping either.