newjerseysurf
Member
What’s a “fair” price on those?
While I’m at it...what price would you guys be comfortable paying for some of the more “cult” cameras (XA series, Infinity, etc.)?
Newbie looking for a (relatively) affordable and durable point & shoot with decent IQ
- Thread starter newjerseysurf
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 124
- Views 12K
What’s a “fair” price on those?
While I’m at it...what price would you guys be comfortable paying for some of the more “cult” cameras (XA series, Infinity, etc.)?
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
I don't think I would pay more than $25 for a working Pentax PC35AF. I have three of them now, two working, one with a dead AF module. They are a crapshoot though. Buy a few and expect one to work.
As for a "cult" camera, I don't buy into that. Since I've seen MJUs go for $5 I don't want to pay more. I'd probably go as high as $25 for a working specimen. I paid $12 for my XA and that is the perfect price for that camera. Its a slippery slope though. You buy 4 duds at $25 each and you could have had a Leica IIIc that just needed service, maybe a curtain and a beamsplitter. After all is said and done, you're under $250 for a fresh camera that will possible last the rest of your life.
Part of the fun for me is finding the cameras cheap and either repairing them or having them work outright when purchased. I've had far more success with P&S cameras than I've ever had with Yashica Electro 35s, for example. I think I have owned maybe 7 of those and only a GTN worked right out of the gate. All have needed repair. Canonets have been the most successful mechanical/electrical camera for me of that stripe. Back to the topic at hand though, I think if it is meant to be then so be it. If I find a good deal on a working P&S camera, then great. I don't go out of my way to get them at ridiculous prices though.
Phil Forrest
StanMac
Member
Removing just enough plastic from the casing of the CRP2 to allow popping the batteries out is on my project list for a dead CRP2 pack in my desk drawer. I’m wondering if the terminals that are fully encased have a spot welded strap on them, and if that strap is embedded in the case some way, which means really butchering the pack up so much it would be useless.
Stan
Huss
Veteran
Please report back when you do this, as it really seems that that is all the CRP2 pack is - two CR123s in special case.
Skiff
Well-known
+1.
There is one in our family: Bought in the 90ies and still going strong! One of the best P&S of that time with a zoomlens.
Another recommendation:
Leica Z2X:
Compact, (very) good lens and good exposure meter. I have even shot some transparency films with mine with very good results.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I usually spend a pound or two on P&S's because I figure I won't then burst into tears if they turn out to be U/S. Now and then I'll stretch that to a fiver if I think it worth the risk on (say) a mju-II or XA etc. I've bought awful cups of coffee for that sort of price and so it's my yardstick.
FWIW, Last week I bought two at 2 pounds and yesterday one at 3 and one at 7 as it was in the box with everything (but the battery will probably need replacing soon).
Really it boils down to what cash you can waste without crying balanced against a bit of fun/profit with the good ones.
BTW, I mentioned earlier that cameras should have manuals, lens caps and so on. They can cost a lot, lot more than the camera.
Regards, David
I usually spend a pound or two on P&S's because I figure I won't then burst into tears if they turn out to be U/S. Now and then I'll stretch that to a fiver if I think it worth the risk on (say) a mju-II or XA etc. I've bought awful cups of coffee for that sort of price and so it's my yardstick.
FWIW, Last week I bought two at 2 pounds and yesterday one at 3 and one at 7 as it was in the box with everything (but the battery will probably need replacing soon).
Really it boils down to what cash you can waste without crying balanced against a bit of fun/profit with the good ones.
BTW, I mentioned earlier that cameras should have manuals, lens caps and so on. They can cost a lot, lot more than the camera.
Regards, David
santino
FSU gear head
Canon MC. Small, good lens, wide range of shutter speeds, af lock and clam shell design.
Austintatious
Well-known
These are now fetching from $80.00 to $100.00 USD on Flea-bay. A bit more than the OP
wanted to go.
It seems that most film cameras have taken a price hike recently on that site 🙁
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
I should funnel all my thrift shop finds to my brother in Melbourne. If I get enough in one package we could make a killing.
Phil Forrest
santino
FSU gear head
I paid 2 euros.
I forgot to mention that it takes two AAA batteries.
I forgot to mention that it takes two AAA batteries.
newjerseysurf
Member
it seems almost anything with a brand name and a prime lens is astronomical.
granted i don't know if they are all actually FETCHING those prices. but my god.
wjlapier
Well-known
The Fujifilm Silvi F/2.8 is pretty high now. 24-50mm lens is 2.8 on the wide end and 5.6 on the other. I have one and it's tiny but shoots very well. For the price I'd take this over the 2.8 Oly 35 anyday. The mju III Wide 100 is 28mm on the wide end.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Somewhere it was mentioned in a thread about plastic cog wheels and metal ones. They seem to be a weak spot in a lot of cameras. So looking for cameras with metal ones should be part of the exercise. I vaguely think the XA range were held up as an example that should last mechanically.
Regards, David
Regards, David
newjerseysurf
Member
I’ve narrowed my search to an XA series 🙂
MacReady
Member
It is, with a connection spot welded to one side of them.
Tried to fix an Olympus recently that had soldered in batteries. A truly stupid design choice that required breaking a crp2 open.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
This site is worth a visit but you have to click on the red button to get in:-
http://www.diaxa.com/
FWIW, I disagree with what he/she says about the XA1...
Regards, David
giganova
Well-known
You forgot the Minox 35 cameras! Total stealth, you can't hear the shutter and film advance. The GT-E is the best of the bunch. I have two of them and one is always with me.
The Olympus MJU is an outstanding camera. If your budget permits, get the one with the f/2.8 lens.
I also have a Nikon L35AF. All the above have excellent image quality, but keep in mind that the ones with automatic film advance are loud, that's why I prefer the Minox.
The Olympus MJU is an outstanding camera. If your budget permits, get the one with the f/2.8 lens.
I also have a Nikon L35AF. All the above have excellent image quality, but keep in mind that the ones with automatic film advance are loud, that's why I prefer the Minox.
shawn
Veteran
I've been wanting one of them for awhile too. The prices seems to have actually come down for the 28mm models. I have an original version 28mm on the way. The original model has the 8 element in 7 groups lens design, later ones are 5/5. The original models viewfinder sticks up more from the top plate and the lens itself sticks out further than the grip. Later models the lens barely protrudes from the body. They look like their finders are bigger though at least from the front.
Shawn
Huss
Veteran
The Nikon L35 AW is waterproof down to 9 feet, has a cracker 35mm 2.8 lens, and is AF w/ mf override. Ruggedly made and quiet because the rubber seals and heavier casing muffles everything..
Huss
Veteran
Just took my own advice and picked one up! Another plus is you manually turn on the flash and it uses AA batteries.
Similar threads
- Featured
- Article
- Article
- Article
