Newbie questions: basic enlarger settings

[FujiLove]

Hi - First off, sorry for what are probably blindingly obvious questions, but after my first two evenings in the darkroom I'm struggling a little to understand some basic settings...

I made a couple of contact prints using exposure times and f stops suggested as a starting point from (I think) the darkroom handbook. They came out okay, but some of the images were very over exposed and others under exposed. There is a dramatic difference compared to what I saw when I scanned the negatives. I assume this is because the scanner compensates for a poorly exposed negative? (I was using a camera that I'm since found out has a very inaccurate meter). With a roll like that, is it standard practice to then take the photos that were 'out' and create separate contact prints at different exposures?

The basic thing I'm struggling with is knowing what is a sensible starting point for an exposure. With my camera, for instance, I know that on a sunny day I can get a reasonable negative with a 1/500 f16 combination. With the enlarger, I have no idea where to start. One of my test strips came out completely black last night and another completely white! I got there in the end, but I do think I'm missing something fundamental.

I'm using a Durst AC707 enlarger with a colour dichroic head and I have two lenses: 80mm f5.6 and 50mm f2.8.

I've watched a ton of YouTube videos and tutorials of darkroom practice, and you see people making 3 second exposures and others making 45 second exposures. Obviously because the negatives are different densities, their lenses are set at different stops, the contrast filters are different etc.

So what's your basic starting point and routine? Is there a guide or book with real examples and settings that would help?

Finally, I realise that my AC707 has a built in light meter which can supposedly produce an accurately exposed print (I also have the external meter which can spot meter to determine contrast). I've read the instructions a dozen times, but it's bleedin' indecipherable! If anyone else uses an AC707, I'd be very interested in knowing if the meter is worth bothering with for B&W and if it is, what exactly I need to do!

Thanks again.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Depends on the paper you use. They vary in speed; some are fast, some slow, just like film. Also the print size affects exposure. Larger prints need more exposure than small ones. Also different enlarger models have different bulb brightness. We can't really give you an answer.

You'll have to do it by trial and error.

 

[varchs]

Dear FujiLove,
I am an amateur B&W "wetprinter" and I do not know your enlarger.
But, exposure time depends on the negative itself, the distance between the enlarger and the paper (size of print), the aperture and contrast filter.
I have started with the Ilford guiding pdf...

The last days I am printing some 10x15 postcards from a 135mm film negative, and with contrast filter #3 and aperture f8 I need 7sec for a basic exposure.

It needs time...

My enlarger's timer has some sort of negative analyzing features but I have never used it.

Have fun with wet-printing, is pure magic!!!

 

[FujiLove]

Depends on the paper you use. They vary in speed; some are fast, some slow, just like film. Also the print size affects exposure. Larger prints need more exposure than small ones. Also different enlarger models have different bulb brightness. We can't really give you an answer.

You'll have to do it by trial and error.

The type of paper and the size of prints are two factors that I hadn't even considered. I stupidly thought that there was a paper 'standard' as nobody seems to ever mention paper speed (compared to film speed, which they never shut up about!)

I guess I need to do some careful exposure tests and mark them up on the test prints.

 

[FujiLove]

Dear FujiLove,
I am an amateur B&W "wetprinter" and I do not know your enlarger.
But, exposure time depends on the negative itself, the distance between the enlarger and the paper (size of print), the aperture and contrast filter.
I have started with the Ilford guiding pdf...

The last days I am printing some 10x15 postcards from a 135mm film negative, and with contrast filter #3 and aperture f8 I need 7sec for a basic exposure.

It needs time...

My enlarger's timer has some sort of negative analyzing features but I have never used it.

Have fun with wet-printing, is pure magic!!!

Thanks for the link to the PDF. I'll have a good look through that. I see it has some suggested times and f stops.

 

[Bill Clark]

Welcome to Rangefinder forum.

One of the best items to have in your darkroom, I have found in my experiences, is a fairly large garbage can! Very few of the film cameras I use have a light meter so I will meter at the start and things change, for instance, clouds in the sky, people moving that changes the light conditions and numerous other variables. I usually really get into what is happening in front of the camera forgetting to adjust the camera. Perhaps I'm too used to auto everything on some of my newer stuff.

I find that, after I process the film, I make a contact sheet of each roll of exposed film, I can get 6 strips with 6 frames each strip on one 8x10 sheet of paper. Since I think I'm kind of a crappy photographer, I don't make many enlargements from each roll. Every so often I get lucky and find a few keepers on the same roll!

From the select few, for making an enlargement, I will make a test strip of one keeper frame and go from there. I sometimes get good at guessing the exposures of subsequent negatives from the roll, kinda like when I took many multiple guess tests during my undergraduate studies except, back then when I would wear wrist watch, I would use the "second" hand to determine which box to check!

The darkroom can be a fun experience as it can finally show the fruits of your efforts to make a beautiful photograph. I find it satisfying ever more so when someone likes what they see!

Keep at it as this photography medium is a constant learning experience! Smiles and fun.

 

[jschrader]

... There is a dramatic difference compared to what I saw when I scanned the negatives. I assume this is because the scanner compensates for a poorly exposed negative?

that is right

The basic thing I'm struggling with is knowing what is a sensible starting point for an exposure. With my camera, for instance, I know that on a sunny day I can get a reasonable negative with a 1/500 f16 combination. With the enlarger, I have no idea where to start.

There is not such thing as a starting point. For a normal print, you put in a sheet and try 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 seconds on narrow strips (one fifth 8 sec, then open a second fifth and add 4, and 2, and 1, and 1).

If you have a poorly exposed film (with thin and dense negatives), it is probably difficult to get a contact print that is useful. Try the softest paper available.

You can use the above method to find a starting point but you will never have all frames on one sheet, which is the idea behind the contact sheet.

Try to find a good meter, or understand why the meter of the camera is fooled. Mostly they are OK but too much of the sky within the frame makes the camera underexpose what you wanted to see.

Good luck with trying it out, and don't loose patience

 

[Ko.Fe.]

On-line tutorials and youtubeorials never really helped me.
Analog printing requires analog reading, it appears.
One of our mentors is co-author of very helpful book for beginners in the dark.
It is not only written in easy to understand English, it also has very helpful illustrations.

I also agree with trial and error route. Get a lot of expired paper. And large garbage bin.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Try this: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Print-BW-Photographs-in-a-Darkroom/step9/Test-Strips/

Test strips are the starting point for most of us, until we get to know the materials and can judge the negative etc.

Have fun.

Regards, David

 

[KenR]

Trial and error and, as pointed out by others, a big garbage pail. Other than when I am dealing with a negative exposed at the same place and time as the one that I have just been printing, I make a test strip. I generally stop down and use 5-10-15-20 seconds initially. If everything is too light, then open it up two stops and repeat. If too dark, close it down too stops and repeat. Nothing else has worked for me including meters and the old Kodak tester negative.

 

[FujiLove]

LOL - yes, very glad I have a bin in there with me 🙂

I'm very glad to hear that most of this is trial and error and that I'm generally already doing the right thing. What I do need to do is make more notes. I scribbled a few things down last night but when I read them back today, they are not enough. I also realise I need to start marking up the prints.

In my usual fashion, I think I'm trying to achieve too much too soon.

Thanks for all the tips and comments - it's encouraging to read.

 

[FujiLove]

On-line tutorials and youtubeorials never really helped me.
Analog printing requires analog reading, it appears.
One of our mentors is co-author of very helpful book for beginners in the dark.
It is not only written in easy to understand English, it also has very helpful illustrations.

I also agree with trial and error route. Get a lot of expired paper. And large garbage bin.

Could you share a link to the book?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

http://www.amazon.com/Darkroom-Basi...98&sr=8-1&keywords=Darkroom+Basics+and+Beyond

 

[FujiLove]

http://www.amazon.com/Darkroom-Basi...98&sr=8-1&keywords=Darkroom+Basics+and+Beyond

Purchased!

...it was already in my wishlist 🙂

 

[Shac]

Frankly I see no reason for the bin. Use test-strips as others have suggested - that's the simplest way to go (I had my first darkroom 60 years ago so have tried most things)
Should you wish to venture into it really deep - try and get hold of used copy of Ansel Adam's "The print"

 

[KenR]

My favorite book on enlarging was David Vestal's "The Art of Black and White Enlarging." It was a step-by-step guide with sections on mounting your prints and various formulas. I think it's long out of print, but it should be available used from Amazon or Barnes and Noble.