atanger
Newbie
I'm new to the boards and would really like to start using my father's Leica M3 bodies and lenses. I have 2 M3 bodies 1096338 and 924174 and Summarit 50mm 1.5, Summicron 50mm 2.0 w/goggles, and Summaron 35mm 3.5 w/goggles.
I have some experience with a DSLR but no experience shooting with these rangefinders. I have shot some rolls already but a majority of them were out-of -focus (OOF). I do use a Gossen light meter when in doubt but for the most part I really do not understand why most of my shots are OOF. Some questions for you:
When focusing I look through the viewfinder and line-up the subject and press the shutter button (really nice feel and a great low decible sound).
Could it be that I need the equipment serviced (focusing issue, always easier to blame it on equipment error and not the user)? Not sure how old the equipment is, does it require regular maintenance?
I'm really not sure what's the function of the goggles?
Could you comment on the lenses that I have? Do people prefer the 1.5 or 2.0?Anyone more consistantly sharper towards the edges or are they all sharp at the center focus point.
I really appreciate any feedback that would enable me to enjoy using this equipment. I have a trip at the end of March and I really plan on using the M3.
I have some experience with a DSLR but no experience shooting with these rangefinders. I have shot some rolls already but a majority of them were out-of -focus (OOF). I do use a Gossen light meter when in doubt but for the most part I really do not understand why most of my shots are OOF. Some questions for you:
When focusing I look through the viewfinder and line-up the subject and press the shutter button (really nice feel and a great low decible sound).
Could it be that I need the equipment serviced (focusing issue, always easier to blame it on equipment error and not the user)? Not sure how old the equipment is, does it require regular maintenance?
I'm really not sure what's the function of the goggles?
Could you comment on the lenses that I have? Do people prefer the 1.5 or 2.0?Anyone more consistantly sharper towards the edges or are they all sharp at the center focus point.
I really appreciate any feedback that would enable me to enjoy using this equipment. I have a trip at the end of March and I really plan on using the M3.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Apart from comments here, you should contact someone living around you, maybe another RFforum member, to see your cameras and lenses and give you an opinion on how well they are working...
If you haven't shot film before, then I'd recommend learning the basics in a couple of days of shooting with someone used to film. Great you'll be using your father's gear!
Welcome!
If you haven't shot film before, then I'd recommend learning the basics in a couple of days of shooting with someone used to film. Great you'll be using your father's gear!
Welcome!
hans voralberg
Veteran
The Summicron you have is the Summicron DR, the goggle is for close-up shooting, google for it on cameraquest for instruction. On the 35mm the goggle is to de-magnify the VF of the M3 to make the 50mm frameline into a 35mm frameline.
My guess is the RF is off, but test on both bodies, it's rare to have both of them out of whack. The DR has better edge sharpness, the Summarit is sharp at center and has very funky OOF.
My guess is the RF is off, but test on both bodies, it's rare to have both of them out of whack. The DR has better edge sharpness, the Summarit is sharp at center and has very funky OOF.
akiralx
Established
The cameras date from March 1958 and January 1964.
I agree with Hans, if it's not user error (I assume you are manually focusing correctly) then the rangefinder may need adjusting, as part of a general service. The DR Summicron is the best of the lenses you have.
I agree with Hans, if it's not user error (I assume you are manually focusing correctly) then the rangefinder may need adjusting, as part of a general service. The DR Summicron is the best of the lenses you have.
rolleistef
Well-known
People usually use the Summicron as it's way more advanced than the Summarit. The Summarit was one of the first 1.5 leica issued, a few years before WW2 started. Actually it depends on what you want to get with your photos. The Summicron DR is acclaimed for its sharpness, while the Summarit can be truly soft.
What to check?
Look through the lens over a bright light and check for fungus (looks like a kind of web developping on the glass). Check also for the condition of the lens coating, which is often rather fragile. A couple of cleaning mark (you're nearly bound to have some on the Summarit) is no big problem tough.
Camera :
Open the camera back flap, and fire the shutter at all speeds. Speeds below 60th are always a bit slow (spring detensing), check both cameras and see if there's a big difference.
Now : you can draw a big neet cross on a piece of paper you stick on the wall.
Place the camera on a tripod at exactly one meter, set the lens on one meter and aim it a the cross, the camera needs to be perfectly perpendicular. If still can see two images in the rangefinder, then it's off.
Have a look at the kiev survival site, do not attempt to do the same as with a russian camera but you can find a more precise rf checking chart somewhere.
Now, using a film and a tripod, check how accurate the speeds can be. Fire the shutter at, say, 1000/f:2, 500/f:2.8, 250/f:4 and so forth. Once it's processed (you can use a black and white film and learn how to process it yourself, it's very easy) you can compare the exposition.
I'm sure there are other things you can check, but that's what comes to my mind right now.
What to check?
Look through the lens over a bright light and check for fungus (looks like a kind of web developping on the glass). Check also for the condition of the lens coating, which is often rather fragile. A couple of cleaning mark (you're nearly bound to have some on the Summarit) is no big problem tough.
Camera :
Open the camera back flap, and fire the shutter at all speeds. Speeds below 60th are always a bit slow (spring detensing), check both cameras and see if there's a big difference.
Now : you can draw a big neet cross on a piece of paper you stick on the wall.
Place the camera on a tripod at exactly one meter, set the lens on one meter and aim it a the cross, the camera needs to be perfectly perpendicular. If still can see two images in the rangefinder, then it's off.
Have a look at the kiev survival site, do not attempt to do the same as with a russian camera but you can find a more precise rf checking chart somewhere.
Now, using a film and a tripod, check how accurate the speeds can be. Fire the shutter at, say, 1000/f:2, 500/f:2.8, 250/f:4 and so forth. Once it's processed (you can use a black and white film and learn how to process it yourself, it's very easy) you can compare the exposition.
I'm sure there are other things you can check, but that's what comes to my mind right now.
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
You may find this helpful:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/leica/leica_m3/leica_m3.htm
This should help minimize user error.
Rob
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/leica/leica_m3/leica_m3.htm
This should help minimize user error.
Rob
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
To amplify what Alex said. You make no mention of rotating the lens barrel to cause the images in the range-finder patch to merge. To me it seems that you are using the shutter button to focus, as we do with a digital SLR. That is no good with an M3.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Do you know how rangefinders work to determine focus? Please let us know or look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangefinder_camera
In any case, you have some very nice gear there. M3's have real value and espcially the Summicron DR is nothing short of legendary. Despite being the oldest lens I have ever owned (by far) it also beyond a shadow of a doubt the best (by far). A Summicron DR on an M3 must be close to the best possible combination for B/W 35mm photography.
In any case, you have some very nice gear there. M3's have real value and espcially the Summicron DR is nothing short of legendary. Despite being the oldest lens I have ever owned (by far) it also beyond a shadow of a doubt the best (by far). A Summicron DR on an M3 must be close to the best possible combination for B/W 35mm photography.
atanger
Newbie
This forum is great and I will really appreciate all the feedback. I have some experience with focsuing manually and do believe that I need to line-up my subject in the VF prior to enabling the shutter.
Thank you Stephane for your tutorial on calibrating my shutter.
I have reached out to the "local" community and I'm trying to make arrangements to meet-up.
The m3 appears to be a great PJ camera, do people use it for landscapes, if so, what are some budget friendly wide angle lenses people have success with?
Thank you Stephane for your tutorial on calibrating my shutter.
I have reached out to the "local" community and I'm trying to make arrangements to meet-up.
The m3 appears to be a great PJ camera, do people use it for landscapes, if so, what are some budget friendly wide angle lenses people have success with?
hans voralberg
Veteran
I got great result with the Voigtlander 21/4, cheapest 21 you could get and it's very very good!
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
After you get the camera working try it with some Kodak tri-x or Ilford 400; print high contrast. You will be pleasantly surprised.
atanger
Newbie
Does the goggles come off of the Summaron 35? If so, can you explain how to take it off the lense?
FrankS
Registered User
You need to keep the goggles on the Summaron 35mm lens. It changes the 50mm viewfinder of the camera into a 35mm view, and it is necessary for the range finding patch to work accurately with this lens.
The goggles on the 50mm DR Summicron is only used for close-up photography, and is removed for normal distance photography.
It's confusing because the goggles are used for 2 completely different purposes on these 2 lenses.
BTW, the Summarit lens can give very beautiful results, almost other-worldly or dream-like. Those 2 50mm lenses make a good pair, with the Summicron being clinically sharp and giving realistic looking results.
The goggles on the 50mm DR Summicron is only used for close-up photography, and is removed for normal distance photography.
It's confusing because the goggles are used for 2 completely different purposes on these 2 lenses.
BTW, the Summarit lens can give very beautiful results, almost other-worldly or dream-like. Those 2 50mm lenses make a good pair, with the Summicron being clinically sharp and giving realistic looking results.
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