presspass
filmshooter
I want to try a panorama camera but can't justify an Xpan. The Horizon cameras seem to be the only new film cameras available. Has anyone tried the newer Horizon cameras, either with the Horizon name or the ones sold by the Lomo people? I would appreciate any help/info/advice.
Thanks,
Thanks,
pagpow
Well-known
I have a Horizon 202, lightly used, bought used after asking whether it banded. It bands less than the Widelux I have but variations in exposure were visible, but subtle. This is one.
I haven't heard as much about banding with these as I have w. the Widelux models before the 7 and the 8.
Others?
I haven't heard as much about banding with these as I have w. the Widelux models before the 7 and the 8.
Others?
seike
Newbie
I owned a Horizon 202. It is a really nice camera, but I was missing the abillity to focus or using DoF.
And keep in mind, that this is a russian camera, so don't expect that much from it. My Horizon had an loose film advance lever an the shutter-button fell off.
But all in all: nice camera and a really nice lens.
And keep in mind, that this is a russian camera, so don't expect that much from it. My Horizon had an loose film advance lever an the shutter-button fell off.
But all in all: nice camera and a really nice lens.
wotalegend
Well-known
I have a Horizon S3 Pro, the successor to the 202, which I have had for 3-4 years. Bearing in mind that I am a careful user of all my cameras, and the Horizon has had limited use, I have had no problems with it. Nothing has broken, loosened, or fallen off and in general it has done the job I expected of it. I have noticed a little bit of banding on the first few frames of a film and I think it relates to the shutter mechanism having had lack of exercise. So now I exercise the shutter before loading a film and the banding seems to have diminished.
The outer shell of the S3 Pro is mostly plastic, but IMHO its design and quality is in a class well above the Holga. Most internal and moving parts are metal, and its size and weight is about the same as a quality 35mm SLR. The back door is one-piece moulded plastic and looks pretty flimsy, but I have not detected any light leaks. Loading the film is a bit tricky because it has to be threaded under a couple of rollers to hold it on the curved film "gate". It's a bit like threading a movie projector. I have found a pair of postage stamp tweezers a useful aid in pulling the film through, and also putting a backwards bend on the first half inch or so of the leader before loading the film cassette into the camera helps to thread it into the take-up spool. Advancing the film after each frame requires a long throw of the advance lever, as you would expect when you are advancing it 58mm rather than 36mm, and a slow and steady pull of the lever through its arc helps to pull the film through its complicated path. A fast snatch of the advance lever would probably result in torn sprocket holes. Similarly when re-winding, slow and steady is the best policy. The 58mm x 24mm image format means that you will get 14 images on a 24 exposure film, and 22 images on a 36 exposure film.
The Horizon is not a fast camera in use. Hand-holding requires a special grip with both hands behind the body so that they do not appear in the image. A grip handle is supplied which attaches to the bottom left side. That gives a good grip and keeps your left hand out of the way. However, I have had better results by always using a tripod. There is a built-in spirit level on the top of the viewfinder, which is also visible in the viewfinder, as it is important to keep the camera level if you are taking a landscape or seascape. If it is pointing either slightly downwards or upwards, the horizon will be curved one way or the other. This contradicts normal composition "rules" because it means that the horizon is right in the middle of the image. Oh, and the camera is totally manual (and battery-less) with a limited range of shutter speeds (1 sec to 1/250 in two ranges without 1/15) and apertures (f2.8 to f16) which can only be set after the shutter is cocked. You will need to have a separate hand-held exposure meter. There are 3 special-mounting filters supplied - green, UV, and ND (which I think is 4X) which store inside the hand-grip.
All in all, a clever and unique design and you will have a lot of fun with it. You will certainly get a few strange looks from people who haven't seen one before.
The outer shell of the S3 Pro is mostly plastic, but IMHO its design and quality is in a class well above the Holga. Most internal and moving parts are metal, and its size and weight is about the same as a quality 35mm SLR. The back door is one-piece moulded plastic and looks pretty flimsy, but I have not detected any light leaks. Loading the film is a bit tricky because it has to be threaded under a couple of rollers to hold it on the curved film "gate". It's a bit like threading a movie projector. I have found a pair of postage stamp tweezers a useful aid in pulling the film through, and also putting a backwards bend on the first half inch or so of the leader before loading the film cassette into the camera helps to thread it into the take-up spool. Advancing the film after each frame requires a long throw of the advance lever, as you would expect when you are advancing it 58mm rather than 36mm, and a slow and steady pull of the lever through its arc helps to pull the film through its complicated path. A fast snatch of the advance lever would probably result in torn sprocket holes. Similarly when re-winding, slow and steady is the best policy. The 58mm x 24mm image format means that you will get 14 images on a 24 exposure film, and 22 images on a 36 exposure film.
The Horizon is not a fast camera in use. Hand-holding requires a special grip with both hands behind the body so that they do not appear in the image. A grip handle is supplied which attaches to the bottom left side. That gives a good grip and keeps your left hand out of the way. However, I have had better results by always using a tripod. There is a built-in spirit level on the top of the viewfinder, which is also visible in the viewfinder, as it is important to keep the camera level if you are taking a landscape or seascape. If it is pointing either slightly downwards or upwards, the horizon will be curved one way or the other. This contradicts normal composition "rules" because it means that the horizon is right in the middle of the image. Oh, and the camera is totally manual (and battery-less) with a limited range of shutter speeds (1 sec to 1/250 in two ranges without 1/15) and apertures (f2.8 to f16) which can only be set after the shutter is cocked. You will need to have a separate hand-held exposure meter. There are 3 special-mounting filters supplied - green, UV, and ND (which I think is 4X) which store inside the hand-grip.
All in all, a clever and unique design and you will have a lot of fun with it. You will certainly get a few strange looks from people who haven't seen one before.
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Vince Lupo
Whatever
I'll echo the comments of others regarding the 202. It's a fine camera and the images are quite sharp. Plus, when I bought mine new (about 10 years ago), it came with a bunch of extras -- a filter kit, grip, carrying case. The price at the time was $400, which I thought at the time to be good value (I got it for use on editorial assignments for magazines - just as a sort of 'extra' for the art directors). The only issue I've ever had with it was the film advance lever loosening, but it's an easy fix.
gliderbee
Well-known
I have the same experience about the Horizon camera as Wotalegend. I have the S3 U-500 (shutter speeds 1/2th to 1/500th, that's the difference with the Pro: http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/panoramic_horizon_s3_u_500_camera.htm).
The shutter times are selected with a rotating dial that has positions for (in pairs) (1/60th;1/2th), (1/125th; 1/4th) and (1/250th, 1/8th). You select either the fast range or the slow range with a switch behind the rewind button on top.
I'm not sure about 1/15th: the slow times are obtained by diminishing or enlarging the gap between the first and second "curtain" (it are not really curtains, more two cylinders turning inside each others).
There's no corresponding speed indicated at the 1/500th position (where 1/15th would be; the S3 Pro does not have a 1/500th position, hence no "place" for 1/15th, as the U-500 has no "place" for 1/1th; study the pictures of both cameras), but I have the impression the gap is narrower when I fire the camera in that position then when I fire it in the 1/8th position, indicating it could be 1/15th there. I'll give it a try with my next film, just to see if there's a difference in exposure visible.
It's in a different league, but still, when I pick it up, it gives me the same impression as the Fuji GSW690III. It looks all plastic (but the Fuji certainly is not), but it's nevertheless quite sturdy (but as Wotalegend, I'm rather careful with my cameras).
Funny thing with these cameras is that you can put it on a tripod and start shooting in a crowed street, right in the face of people: they usually don't realize it's a camera; it looks more like a land surveyor's measuring instrument.
Stefan.
The shutter times are selected with a rotating dial that has positions for (in pairs) (1/60th;1/2th), (1/125th; 1/4th) and (1/250th, 1/8th). You select either the fast range or the slow range with a switch behind the rewind button on top.
I'm not sure about 1/15th: the slow times are obtained by diminishing or enlarging the gap between the first and second "curtain" (it are not really curtains, more two cylinders turning inside each others).
There's no corresponding speed indicated at the 1/500th position (where 1/15th would be; the S3 Pro does not have a 1/500th position, hence no "place" for 1/15th, as the U-500 has no "place" for 1/1th; study the pictures of both cameras), but I have the impression the gap is narrower when I fire the camera in that position then when I fire it in the 1/8th position, indicating it could be 1/15th there. I'll give it a try with my next film, just to see if there's a difference in exposure visible.
It's in a different league, but still, when I pick it up, it gives me the same impression as the Fuji GSW690III. It looks all plastic (but the Fuji certainly is not), but it's nevertheless quite sturdy (but as Wotalegend, I'm rather careful with my cameras).
Funny thing with these cameras is that you can put it on a tripod and start shooting in a crowed street, right in the face of people: they usually don't realize it's a camera; it looks more like a land surveyor's measuring instrument.
Stefan.
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bobbyrab
Well-known
I've got both the Widelux and the Horizon, the Widelux is very heavily used and as such has become a bit worn and doesn't always wind on properly, it's much more limiting in the shutter speeds available as well. The Horizon has been reliable so far [about 18 months], my only reservation is the lens is fixed at infinity, so anything closer than about 20 feet is not in focus, the Widelux is much better in this regard, and I would say has the better lens of the two.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
I used to have the s3-u500 but i sold it off.
I now have a horizon 202, but i found the horizon 202 much much sharper than the s3 at infinity. I bought my second hand <150$, it comes with a USA KIEV sticker.
Here's a pix:
I now have a horizon 202, but i found the horizon 202 much much sharper than the s3 at infinity. I bought my second hand <150$, it comes with a USA KIEV sticker.
Here's a pix:
Brian Levy
Established
A reasonable alternative to consider is a Bronica ETR/ETRS/ETRSi body and a 35w back that is a panaramic 35mm back. Price for a nice user system is very reasonable and you can build it up to other formats for less than many 35mm accessories and lenses are going for. Battery powered but not a mercury cell so no problems there.