uhoh7
Veteran
I have a colordial IIIa coming which I bought for it's pre-war 5cm 50/1.5, but supposedly it works and I'd like to shoot some tri-X with it. 
What iso would tri-X corespond to? Can I point the nex with a similar lens and stop at something and use that shutter speed on the contax?
I know, shouldn't need a light meter, right? Yes, I've been to the site which teaches you to do without, but while I'm learning I'd like to get a good test roll---before the ribbon snaps, hehe.
What iso would tri-X corespond to? Can I point the nex with a similar lens and stop at something and use that shutter speed on the contax?
I know, shouldn't need a light meter, right? Yes, I've been to the site which teaches you to do without, but while I'm learning I'd like to get a good test roll---before the ribbon snaps, hehe.
Jockos
Well-known
TriX400 would presumably correspond to ISO 400 if you develop it as ISO 400 film, but it's equally good as ISO 200-800, and very useable at 1600 IMHO.
You can transfer the shutter speed and aperture setting from your nex to the other camera - provided that the shutter is working properly and you development is spot on - the result should be the same.
A pre-war lens however might have lower light transmission than a modern lens, so if possible, you should use the same lens on the nex.
Cheers!
You can transfer the shutter speed and aperture setting from your nex to the other camera - provided that the shutter is working properly and you development is spot on - the result should be the same.
A pre-war lens however might have lower light transmission than a modern lens, so if possible, you should use the same lens on the nex.
Cheers!
Bugleone
Established
Tri-X has a nominal film speed of 400iso. However, this is modified by processing,...for example, the classic application is Tri-X/D76 with a rating of 320 asa(iso).
For use of any exposure meter it's (was) usaul to calibrate ones working system with a test roll and careful annotation.
To not need or use an exposure meter is fairly simple in known and controlled conditions such as sunshine, but becomes MUCH more difficult and uncertain in combined light or when conditions are less than ideal etc, so good metering technique is vital for the film photographer, whether or not the meter is built into the camera.
For use of any exposure meter it's (was) usaul to calibrate ones working system with a test roll and careful annotation.
To not need or use an exposure meter is fairly simple in known and controlled conditions such as sunshine, but becomes MUCH more difficult and uncertain in combined light or when conditions are less than ideal etc, so good metering technique is vital for the film photographer, whether or not the meter is built into the camera.
Teuthida
Well-known
Stop overthinking. Use the standard box iso of 400 and the sunny 16 rule. That's what people did before light meters and it worked just fine.
jankap
Established
Exactly, that is possible,.
I had the same idea as you had. I use my DP1s as a light meter in the same way. I have bought a Heliar 12mm last month and use it on my IIIf.
Boy, that is a wide lens. One has to be very careful with his feet and his legs(!).
Jan