Night Photos With My Hasselblad

[divewizard]

All shots taken with a Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar 80mm f/2.8 T* CF, no filter,tripod, NCPS scan

Ilford HP5+

Allied Model Trains, Culver City, California

Culver Furniture, Culver City, California

Kodak TMAX 100:

Window Mannequin, Sidney's Uniforms, Culver City, California

©2012 Chris Grossman

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Very nice. You got the exposure and tonality nailed pretty well!

 

[divewizard]

Very nice. You got the exposure and tonality nailed pretty well!

Thank you Chris.
I use a Pentax digital spotmeter to set my exposures.

 

[ChrisN]

Nice photos! When I opened this thread I started looking at the photos, and asked myself how I'd meter - a spot meter was my first thought!

Care to share how you use the spot meter for these subjects? Do you pick a mid tone and expose for that, or meter the highlights?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Thank you Chris.
I use a Pentax digital spotmeter to set my exposures.

I figured you used a spotmeter. I do too for all my black and white work.

 

[Pirate]

I recently picked up a Gossen Ultra Spot. It has a Zone System built into it and will average up to 10 readings. It's awesome.

One of my photography instructors uses a Pentax and he showed me how he wrote up a Zone System label and stuck it on the outside for a quick reference. I was going to get one of those and do the same until I saw the Gossen had it internally. Guess I'm just a Gossen Guy. Been using a Luna Pro in some form for many years and they've been very reliable.

 

[divewizard]

Nice photos! When I opened this thread I started looking at the photos, and asked myself how I'd meter - a spot meter was my first thought!

Care to share how you use the spot meter for these subjects? Do you pick a mid tone and expose for that, or meter the highlights?

I meter for the brightest and darkest spots I want to render detail in and then pick a point about in the middle.

 

[jordanstarr]

For night shots, I always just picked the brightest highlight I'd want texture, meter and open it up two stops. This way, shadows just fall where they will, which is naturally dark and if "too dark", my thoughts is that "they're shadows -they're supposed to be heavy". So, even if they are a little darker, I'd rather have the textured highlights. There's a few approaches that work just as well with a combination of metering and film developing. You seem to have found what works for you, so good on ya.