Nikkor 5cm 1.4. To file or not to file?

Krosya

Krosya

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I recently got me a Nikkor 5cm 1.4 LTM lens. As you know it can be modified to couple with later m-bodies to focus down to .7m, by filing down a section of the mount with the tread on it. I really do like the idea of closer coupled focus.
Question is - should i do it?
Yes, there is a chance I'll screw it up. But based on what I have seen in Roland's old post - its pretty straight forward job. Yet, there is always that - "what if?".
Also, what will it do to the value of the lens?
Any thoughts? I wonder if many people that have this lens had this done?
 
You want to be EXTREMELY careful about getting filings into the helical. I had that happen to a J-8, and it was miserable. I might do this with a Nikkor 5cm f2- but I got it for $50.

I found an easy way to make a J-3 focus closer, to 0.75m~0.8m or so. One that I was sent recently had the stop-screw missing from the helical. The lens focusses closer than 1m and a little farther than infinity. The advantage on the J-3: remove the helical from the mount and then file it down. Clean it, and then remount the helical.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
You want to be EXTREMELY careful about getting filings into the helical. I had that happen to a J-8, and it was miserable. I might do this with a Nikkor 5cm f2- but I got it for $50.

I found an easy way to make a J-3 focus closer, to 0.75m~0.8m or so. One that I was sent recently had the stop-screw missing from the helical. The lens focusses closer than 1m and a little farther than infinity. The advantage on the J-3: remove the helical from the mount and then file it down. Clean it, and then remount the helical.
Click to expand...

Whats the best way to make sure that mounting thread will be intact after filing, so lens still will mount Ok? - any special technique?
 
I HAD to file the cam down on a CZJ Sonnar in LTM, the focus was way off and the optics module was frozen in the helical....

So, I stuffed as much paper into the area as possible to keep filings out, and used a rubber band around the RF cam and up against the helical threads. After filing, flood cleaned the residuals out with Ronsonol. I filed as gently as possible and it took a lot of time. But it did work. I thought about putting a layer of grease on it, but then the filings would just stick to it. If you could not get the grease off easily, the filings would be left in place. With the Nikkor, you can remove the optics module- but can't easily get the helical out of the mount. File slowly, and flush it out. I "chickened out" and did not do my nice LTM Nikkors.
 
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I filed it, using it just fine now. I first line it with cling film (food wrap) then tissue then file away, blowing the metal dust away every 30 sec or so.
 
hans voralberg said:
I filed it, using it just fine now. I first line it with cling film (food wrap) then tissue then file away, blowing the metal dust away every 30 sec or so.
Click to expand...

Any way you could post a photo of your final result - what that area looks like, that you had to file down?
 
NOTICE: This is a horrendous job and I know it, it might induce heart attack if you love one of these lens. It works though. The SMALLER filed position is the correct one. Don't ask me why I filed away a whole chunk of it before realizing it's the wrong place.

P1000198.JPG


P1000200.JPG


P1000201.JPG
 
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Oh - good - you fixed it. !
Now, your smaller cutout looks like it's the wrong position, based on what Roland posted. Your larger cut out seems to be the correct one. Yet you say its the other way around. Could you clarify, pls?
 
Uhm I can't remember what Roland's looks like. When I look at it through the back of my M3 the smaller cut is where the rangefinder cam meet the lens helicoid.
 
none of the photo's are showing up for me, get a 404 error.

For the cut-out position- have you tried putting the lens in the M-Adapter that you plan on using? Set the Nikkor to 0.7m and eyeball the position.
 
Well, I did it! Took me all of 30 min, and most of it was to cover the helicoid threads. Filing was easy, yet one has to be careful. Works great at the end! I went with a different approach - I made mine look like an M-mount cutout - works like a charm and looks nice I think. My cutout is at the same location as Roland's and your larger one. Well, here are the pics - just freshly done:
nikkor5clfocus1.jpg


nikkor5clfocus2.jpg


nikkor5clfocus3.jpg


nikkor5clfocus4.jpg


nikkor5clfocus5.jpg
 
Lovely work! Have fun with it. I might need to check mine though because while it obviously move the focus patch until 0.7m at the wrong position the lens seems to front focus.
 
That looks really good. We'll have to start a thread with "closer than 0.9m in LTM".

BTW: Add one point for the FSU cameras with "fingers" instead of rollers. My Zorki 3M can follow the modified J-3 and my LTM Nikkor 5cm f2 in much closer than the Roller based cameras. No filing required. The narrow RF follower makes it possible. "My Opinion" is that the FSU designers intended that as a feature. Some of the J-8's focus closer than what a roller-based pick up can do.
 
hans voralberg said:
Lovely work! Have fun with it. I might need to check mine though because while it obviously move the focus patch until 0.7m at the wrong position the lens seems to front focus.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
Now as far as yours goes - I assume you had your M3 adjusted to focus from 0.7m? Cause usually they focus from 1m. Also, I think it can only fit at "right" position, as lens will only go on one way, so cam will only hit it in one spot. Maybe you need to take a closer look at yours?
 
Not sure if this is the reason but I'm using a 35-135 adapter not the 50, I'll try with the 50 tomorrow. And yes my M3 was adjusted to focus to 0.7m by CRR Luton. In any case I might not messed up that bad hehe.

BTW, does this lens has the Sonnar focus shift ? I'm not sure the focusing problem I have wide open is shift or front-focus.
 
I dont think it matters which adapter you use other than what framelines it'll trigger.
As far as Sonnar focus shift - I dont know from personal experience as I just got this lens a few days ago. But I'd expect it to have at least some of it.

PS. My LTM->M adapter is Leica 13.5cm
 
The Nikkor 5cm F1.4 was optimized for F1.4 and close-up. I've got a test of it done in '91 by Pop photo. Interesting results, probably explained by the shift. F1.4 did better than F2, but by F4 all settles down. But, you have to enlarge quite a bit to see it.

In real life, it's never been a problem for me. I've used them for a long time.
 
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