Nikkormat FTn

[Huss]

A modern Nikon AF lens would work on an AI camera body (FT3, FM and newer) as long as it has the aperture ring. On a non AI body - FT2, F, FT etc it would need the rabbit ears for the metering prong to attach to. If it doesn't have that you would need to stop down meter. If your camera body does not have a meter, then no worries!

Thing is the plastic modern lenses do not feel good on the traditional metal bodies. The manual focus doesn't feel as nice as the metal lenses, the aperture rings don't turn as nicely. But they will work.

 

[Huss]

For the Nikkormat FTn there might be no replacement parts available. I doubt that today any repairer would have any.
Cleaning the carbon track in a FTn in most cases is all that it needs.
I don't know how to do it, but reading a repair manual might tell you how or at least where and how to reach it.
In the UK, this is my recommendation for a repairer: http://www.aztechservices.com/#/nikon-cameras/4533190829

This piece on ebay is a meter resistance band.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290543790112?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Sorry for the simple questions, but what does that do, would it help a jumpy meter etc?

 

[ravilamir]

Well, that looks like what I know as the carbon track.
That part is fixed to the body and another part linked to the aperture ring via the prong moving an arm across the length of that band. One side has more resistance than the other side. This way it will transmit the aperture value to the meter.
Most of the time a jumpy meter is due to dirt accumulated in that band. A very good clean is what most need.

 

[Huss]

Well, that looks like what I know as the carbon track.
That part is fixed to the body and another part linked to the aperture ring via the prong moving an arm across the length of that band. One side has more resistance than the other side. This way it will transmit the aperture value to the meter.
Most of the time a jumpy meter is due to dirt accumulated in that band. A very good clean is what most need.

I really appreciate your answers. Would this piece be the same on the FTn and the FT2? The voltage changed between those cameras.

 

[ravilamir]

I have no idea if it is the same part.
Only looking at a repair manual for the FTn and FT2 to see if they are the same part.
I did have a repair manual for the FTn, but never seen one for the FT2.
Sorry!

 

[farlymac]

I think Nikon changed the meter system on the FT2 so there wouldn't be anymore problems such as a dirty wiper or worn carbon band.

PF

 

[grouchos_tash]

A modern Nikon AF lens would work on an AI camera body (FT3, FM and newer) as long as it has the aperture ring. On a non AI body - FT2, F, FT etc it would need the rabbit ears for the metering prong to attach to. If it doesn't have that you would need to stop down meter. If your camera body does not have a meter, then no worries!

Thing is the plastic modern lenses do not feel good on the traditional metal bodies. The manual focus doesn't feel as nice as the metal lenses, the aperture rings don't turn as nicely. But they will work.

Problem solved, I bought a black FE with a 50mm f1.8 attached last night (£90) haha! 🙄

 

[GarageBoy]

Jesus, theres some good shots in this thread
I vote the 28 3.5- kinda underrated

 

[Dwig]

I think Nikon changed the meter system on the FT2 so there wouldn't be anymore problems such as a dirty wiper or worn carbon band.

PF

Yes, Nikon developed something they called a "Functional Resisting Element" (aka FRE) which was introduced in the second generation of the DP-1 Photomic finder for the F2. It was then migrated through their whole line over the years. Even the last few batches of repair parts for the Photomic FTn finder for the F were FREs instead of classic exposed carbon surfaces. The FT2 was the first Nikkormat model to use it, though it is possible that late FTn models silently upgraded to the new part.

The F and F2 variants were electrically and mechanically interchangeable with the old versions. I don't know whether the Nikkormat FT2 part will work in an FTn, but it is quite possible.

Note that when cleaning the old resistor component you should also clean the wiper contacts. Both have very fragile surfaces so no mechanical "scrubbing" should be done.

Addenda: It should also be noted that the "jumpy needle syndrome" is also caused by wear. The resistor surface is worn through by the wiper contacts, especially when dirty. This wear is the major weakness that was cured by the use of the FRE style components. Wear can't be "fixed" by cleaning, only replacement of the part will fix things when wear is cause.

 

[_goodtimez]

I've always envisaged a possible modification of the ring resistor system, particularily for the Nikon F various finders, in the form of an optical encoder. I know this sounds a bit overkill but today's technology provides a lot of ressources. Another solution would be a set of contacts linked to fixed resistors. The dynamics of such a system would present steps but on the other hand would be more reliable in the long term.

 

[farlymac]

Yes, Nikon developed something they called a "Functional Resisting Element" (aka FRE) which was introduced in the second generation of the DP-1 Photomic finder for the F2. It was then migrated through their whole line over the years. Even the last few batches of repair parts for the Photomic FTn finder for the F were FREs instead of classic exposed carbon surfaces. The FT2 was the first Nikkormat model to use it, though it is possible that late FTn models silently upgraded to the new part.

The F and F2 variants were electrically and mechanically interchangeable with the old versions. I don't know whether the Nikkormat FT2 part will work in an FTn, but it is quite possible.

Note that when cleaning the old resistor component you should also clean the wiper contacts. Both have very fragile surfaces so no mechanical "scrubbing" should be done.

Addenda: It should also be noted that the "jumpy needle syndrome" is also caused by wear. The resistor surface is worn through by the wiper contacts, especially when dirty. This wear is the major weakness that was cured by the use of the FRE style components. Wear can't be "fixed" by cleaning, only replacement of the part will fix things when wear is cause.

Yes, the "Apollo" version (rubber tipped wind lever, F2 style self timer lever, and a sticker on the winding lever retaining screw) should have the newer meter.

PF