Nikon DP-1 Finder Problem

Kumachrome

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Hi, so I recently acquired a Nikon F2 with a DP-1 finder. The camera works flawlessly, but the meter acts strangely. I'm using 2 1.5v LR44 batteries, as recommended. The issue seems to be that it responds more to aperture and shutter changes, as opposed to actual light. Sometimes, the needle will go all the way to the left, even wheb I cover the lens to block out light. Or, it'll be in the middle, and I'll cover the lens and the needle goes right towards the minus only slightly.
Now, of course, I could just use a pocket meter or sunny 16, but I like my cameras to be fully functional, even if I don't intend to use the function that much.
An tips? I cleaned the battery contact, and the contacts under the DP-1 finder. It's looking like it may need some surgery. Any ideas?
Thanks
 
Contact Sover Wong

Contact Sover Wong

Your CdS cells may be worn. The more likely culprit is a worn out carbon track resistor.

Sover Wong in the UK is THE F2 expert extraordinaire.
He has newly made CdS cells, made to match the original Nikon characteristic curve as much as possible today.
Also, he has custom made ceramic resistors to replace your old one. Naturally, he won't sell you his custom made parts, so you'd best send the camera to him.

What you may not know is that all F2 meter prisms are time bombs. They packed foam into the prism housing. The foam has deteriorated by now, and soon it will eat away the silvering of your prism. If you don't see visual field loss in your finder, then consider yourself lucky. Sover will take off all the old foam, and replace the foams with brand new ones. Naturally, no foam will be placed around the prism itself. I had my F2 (x 2 bodies) sent to various "Nikon specialists" in the USA, and NONE of them ever bothered to take out all of the old rotten foam. Sover will take the entire camera apart, and rebuild you one that is as good as new. He adjusts the shutter to be within 1/4 stop of the rated speed, and he will send you an Excel file with the actual speeds BEFORE and AFTER servicing.
 
You can probably buy a working DP-1 for the cost of repair

You can probably buy a working DP-1 for the cost of repair

Dear kumachrome,

I had an F-2 that did pretty much the same thing. The meter was highly erratic and the needle often jumped around and many times indicated the opposite of what the last aperture or shutter speed change should have indicated. For example, when opening the aperture the meter would indicate underexposure.

We used to have an excellent local camera repair shop in Camp Hill, PA named Esteps Camera. I gave it to him and $ 95.00 later he had rewired the meter circuit, re-foamed the mirror box and CLA'ed the camera. It worked perfectly from then on until I sold it. I should have kept it but I needed the dough!

But that repair was done in 2002. I imagine the cost is probably double now so you might look for a working DP-1 finder as they can be had for less than $ 100.00.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg, PA 🙂
 
That's why I suggested he buy a working finder

That's why I suggested he buy a working finder

Tim,
All of these meter (and we) are 15 years older since 2002.
Whatever may have been available then, is no longer so.

Dear Robert,

Don't I know that! That's why I suggested he look for a working finder as it would probably cost less than the repair.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg, PA 🙂
 
The problem with buying a working DP-1 finder, is that it may not be working properly or may stop working soon. Getting your DP-1 finder fixed is IMO a better idea, at least you know exactly where you are. And yes, Sover Wong is the man for the job.

I bought a working DP-1 finder about a year ago, and it since has become unreliable.
 
My point Tim, is that 15 years later, finding a working finder may well be close to impossible - if they haven't been serviced yet. They are all 15 years older, with 15 years more oxidation, rotting, etc.
 
+1 for Sover if you intend to keep your DP1 long term. That's the decision I made when I sent him my F2A that I've had since 1979. I could have bought another prism but then been in the same position, or even a worse one...
 
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