Nikon F --- All it's cracked up to be?

Dwig - I was always under the impression that it was the first motor drives MD-1) that had problems and they were replaced with a second slightly different model (MD-2)

As far as I remember, Nikon offered upgrades of the MD-1 to MD-2. From outside, the MD-2 added contacts for the end-sensing back and a confirmation LED. I don't know whether they swapped out any circuit or gears, but it is likely, as most MD-2 I ever was issued by the papers and agencies I worked for were converted (as evident by them having the MD-1 companion MB-1 rather than MB-2 battery packs), which suggests some urgency beyond one added blinkenlight and the end-sensing switch (useless as it was a golden rule among PJs never to leave the leader out on a exposed cartridge to avoid double exposure).
 
I've just got an F1 unmetered prism + F36 motor drive / battery pack and love it. I also own an F2 Photomic (meter works fine), F3HP, F5 and F6 (+ battery pack).

Without question, the F5/F6 have the best meters I've ever used. Stylistically, I love the F and F2. All round, though I must say that the F3HP is probably my favourite of the F line. Okay, some of the levers are a bit quirky but, fitted with the power winder and with my 35mm/f2 or 50mm f1.2 Ai-S lenses, it's hard to fault.
 
All round, though I must say that the F3HP is probably my favourite of the F line.

In this Fx race there is one more camera which has not yet been mentioned.
Just in case you have some spare money and you are really not sure between F and F2 and more modern incarnation there is also the F2 Titan with plain prism which is not bad, but I won't buy that as I know it would end in a cabinet seldomly used.

GLF
 
In this Fx race there is one more camera which has not yet been mentioned.
Just in case you have some spare money and you are really not sure between F and F2 and more modern incarnation there is also the F2 Titan with plain prism which is not bad, but I won't buy that as I know it would end in a cabinet seldomly used.

GLF

woahhh... the titan seems incredible
 
I got the nikon f2 Titan from an eBay seller a few weeks ago -- Very nice. Ming Thein has a nice write up about it. I weighed the pieces and etc to check its authenticity -- seems like some people have been defrauded by purchasing fake titans so be careful.
 
I got the nikon f2 Titan from an eBay seller a few weeks ago -- Very nice. Ming Thein has a nice write up about it. I weighed the pieces and etc to check its authenticity -- seems like some people have been defrauded by purchasing fake titans so be careful.

According to Ming Thein "the" place to look for a F2 Titan is Japancamerahunter,
since they are RF sponsors I don't think I am violating any rule of the forum but if I am wrong, please just delete my post and...no, I am not related to JCH and I never bought anything from them, let alone a Titan...

GLF
 
Is it a "Titan" or a titanium F2? The titaniums come in several flavors, but all had titanium top plates, bottom plate, back door, and prism cover.

It would be possible to engrave a titanium as a Titan, hard to catch since there is no reliable number list.

Titanium vs. brass weight-wise, about 60% of brass. Still not much overall, almost impossible to notice just picking one up. You need to compare.

I traded an F3 and some cash for an F3/T around about the end of the last century (mostly because it was mint and had the hp finder ...). It was my last major acquisition of Nikon gear before I started moving away to digital SLRs. I remember weighing the two cameras, sans prism, to see what the difference actually was. It was small. ;-)

I think the major advantage to the titanium casing was that it is tougher and less likely to dent.

G
 
My dream is to one day find a rarely used black Nikon F at a garage or estate sale.

I found my chrome (not black) Nikon F at a garage sale...it was advertised in craigslist as an old school Nikon camera...I almost didn't go but did...I pick it up and quickly asked "How much?"...the seller pulled out ebay listings of similar cameras going for over $100...he then said..."$10"...it was dirty and ugly with the original Photomic finder...I paid him and quickly got out of there...not even checking if it worked...
It cleaned up real nice and later I was able to trade my way to the plain prism that's mounted on it now..I also replace the focusing screen with a very nice "J" type screen...😎
 
Regarding having to calibrate for modern batteries, these guys -http://www.criscam.com/mercury_battery_adapters.php make some useful items. I bought some to use with my Nikon FTN, Eletro's and Yashica 124G. When tested against my Nikon D700 meter the results with them were really quite good.

I have a kit purchased by a USA Combat Engineer in Singapore in 1968, with an F FTn, 28, 50 and 105mm lenses, waist level finder, filters, all the paperwork (manuals, sales receipts, warranty etc) all in a cool Nikon leather case with fittings to hold the camera and a metal base that has three F mounts for lenses. It is a beast to carry but I take it out sometimes for long walks around D.C...and seem to end up spending more time answering questions about the kit than taking photo's. I love it!🙂
 
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Dwig - I was always under the impression that it was the first motor drives MD-1) that had problems and they were replaced with a second slightly different model (MD-2) - but I bow to your wider knowledge...

The MD-2 replaced the MD-1 primarily to improve an already good design. The major differences were:

1. Improved gearing that was quieter and less wear prone.

2. Provision for an "auto-stop" back that would leave the leader out when the film rewound. This was a major feature for press photographers as some papers & wire services would charge the photographers for any rolls where the leader was wound all the way back into the cassette, which would make loading it into the machine film processor a pain.

3. An improved O-C head (the removable head with the O-C dial and release button). The MD-1 version had a large piano-key style release that had two problems. One, if the O-C was left unlocked the motor was easily triggered in the gadget bag running off a whole roll in seconds. Two, if the O-C was locked any firm pressure on the release button was prone to breaking the release (the shop I ran stocked replacement O-C heads and sold the regularly). The MD-2 head, which fits the MD-1 perfectly well, has a smaller recessed button which greatly reduced problem 1 and eliminated problem 2.
 
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I have the 12f5.6 and 15f4.5 in the Nikon F mount (as well as M mount!). This is my regular wide set-up. An old F with a defunct mirror (removed scientifically with a pair of pliers!). Cosina made this neat "top" with a shoe on it - it simply replaces the regular prism and allows you to mount a finder - in line with the optical axis. The finder is the new compact 12 mm finder - smaller magnification than on the older, big finder - which if dropped lands on the front element and cracks it. This way I have dedicated ultrawide camera - and with the mirror up (or simply removed) the F is remarkably quiet.
 
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I have the 12f5.6 and 15f4.5 in the Nikon F mount (as well as M mount!). This is my regular wide set-up. An old F with a defunct mirror (removed scientifically with a pair of pliers!). Cosina made this neat "top" with a shoe on it - it simply replaces the regular prism and allows you to mount a finder - in line with the optical axis. The finder is the new compact 12 mm finder - smaller magnification than on the older, big finder - which if dropped lands on the front element and cracks it. This way I have dedicated ultrawide camera - and with the mirror up (or simply removed) the F is remarkably quiet.

I intended to buy the 12 mm lens and even bought an old beat-up F waist level finder which I was going to modify as a platform for the finder, but by the time I finally decided to make the purchase, the lens was sold out. Snooze, and ya lose.
Ended up buying an auto focus Sigma 12~24 zoom and an N65 AF body to dedicate it to.
It works very well but isn't as much fun as the CV lens mounted on my F would have been.
 
That's a cool setup, Tom!

One of the lenses I borrowed from an uncle back in he day was the Nikkor 21mm f/4 that required the mirror be locked up and an accessory finder. Always loved shooting with that ... Maybe I'll try to find one now..

G
 
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This my preferred macro set up. The 55f3.5 Micro Nikkor - still one of the best macro lenses around and cheap to boot! The F is an Apollo version with the huge sportsfinder on top. The advantage is that you can put the camera on a table-top tripod and not have to squeze your eye on to the rear ocular. You can move stuff around on the table and see it from about 2-3" away in the sportsfinder.
 
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