Nikon F Photomic repair

_goodtimez

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Hi all,

I've fixed 5 photomics during my last end of year leave. All ring resistors were good but at least one CDS photoresitor on each finder was totalled.
Just sharing detailed pictures which may help you.
Write to my flickr email if you need to contact me.


6636392609_b12cccabe9_z.jpg
[/URL]%20Nikon%20F%20photomic%20repair%20by%20Wegothim,%20on%20Flickr[/IMG]
 
Right, that might be frequent - I had one in three dead with a shorted CdS. Do you know of modern replacements?
 
I had acquired a new old stock of about ten thousand (no joke) Nikon parts for the whole F range and accessories and I found a bag in there, but I only have a few left.
I am currently looking for replacement CDS, I will inform back on this thread when I got them.
The electronics in the Photomic are ultra simple and there is a lot of room for improvements.
Also it's pretty easy to check for a linear response curve upon repair.
In the process I have tested 2 different curves obtained with a real 2.70 V by powering the unit with a digital power supply and the 3.00 V obtained with replacement PX625 batteries : not more than half an EV after calibration, not a biggy.
However since I had ordered MR-9 adapters I just use them to provide the typical 2.70 V.
I've had these finders for years but I really didn't trust them before this operation; now I use them confidently. :D
 
Thanks a lot for these informations! I wrote on one of your flickr pics about the inner life of this huge piece of glass and iron...:rolleyes:

I know an old lady, a pro in b&w fordecades, who uses the F with Photomic and replaced the 1.35 V mercuries with regular 1.5 V batteries and never heard about Weincells or adapters.
When I showed her proud my 'new' F we found that the metered values had been off by some contact problems.
The Nikon service in Cologne fixed this but the owner told me that a calibration to 1.5V wasn't possible. An excuse?

But as you mentioned the difference is too small to get wrong exposures (for me the F is strictly a b&w cam).

Thanks for your posting!

Bernd


PS:

here is the new Black Beauty:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36573929@N00/5441613736/in/set-72157626038510734/


and me, forty years ago:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36573929@N00/169584109/in/set-72157626038510734/

the leather pouch for the second lens I wear until now with pride.....:cool:
 
Hi all,

I've fixed 5 photomics during my last end of year leave. All ring resistors were good but at least one CDS photoresitor on each finder was totalled.
Just sharing detailed pictures which may help you.
Write to my flickr email if you need to contact me.


6636392609_b12cccabe9_z.jpg
[/URL]%20Nikon%20F%20photomic%20repair%20by%20Wegothim,%20on%20Flickr[/IMG]


Do you repair Fs for other people as a business? What is your name/ email address for future reference?
 
I have the Photomic finder that proceeds the one in the photo, a Photomic-T. My finder requires the lenses be set to F5.6 in order to engage the meter's index pin. Photomic-TN & FTN (newest) allow "auto indexing" which we all know as "AI".

I actually bought a F body with Photomic-T finder so I'd have the same model as what my Dad used to use when he was a Photojournalist. Loved how I could take a meter reading in stealth by pointing the camera and turning the aperature ring or shutter speed dial and watching the needle at the top of the finder. Also good for looking at what F-stop you're at through the window. Only downside was you had to remember to manually set the lens's maximum aperature so the meter knew what to do.

Thanks for the memories!

Dave
 
Dave - you still had to do that with the TN and FTN as well. Wasn't until you had the F2 that AI metering existed.
 
Dave,

I understand the feelings you have about your Dad. I ride a vintage Royal Enfield and own a Springfield .45 Gov Model for the same reason. I also Have an F Photomic Ftn BTW and its my favorite SLR.
 
Yeah, you guys are right about the auto-indexing. I guess what I was trying to say is that in order for the pin to line-up, you MUST use F5.6 on the Photomic-T finder, and the newest Ftn allowed you to mount the lens at F8 or F4 and simply turn the aperture ring of the lens until the pin indexed via a spring-loaded system? I might be wrong about this??

In any event, I remember having to turn the aperture ring to full wide-open to set the meter for the maximum aperture in both the Nikon F Photomic Ftn as well as my Dad's Nikkormat Ftn. And the Nikkormat NEEDED to have the lens set at F5.6 just so you could properly align the indexing pins on camera body. Not 100% sure on the Nikon F. You guys know more about this than I since the camera is in the basement in storage.

I have a M-1 Garrand, built in '43 at Springfield. I shoot it and remember my Dad!:D
 
Yeah, you guys are right about the auto-indexing. I guess what I was trying to say is that in order for the pin to line-up, you MUST use F5.6 on the Photomic-T finder, and the newest Ftn allowed you to mount the lens at F8 or F4 and simply turn the aperture ring of the lens until the pin indexed via a spring-loaded system? I might be wrong about this??

In any event, I remember having to turn the aperture ring to full wide-open to set the meter for the maximum aperture in both the Nikon F Photomic Ftn as well as my Dad's Nikkormat Ftn. And the Nikkormat NEEDED to have the lens set at F5.6 just so you could properly align the indexing pins on camera body. Not 100% sure on the Nikon F. You guys know more about this than I since the camera is in the basement in storage.

I have a M-1 Garrand, built in '43 at Springfield. I shoot it and remember my Dad!:D

Actually before mounting a lens you need to move the lever on the Photomic to the middle and push it up; you hear a click.
Then just mount the lens at any preset aperture. When you rotate the aperture ring after that, it will catch up the lever of the Photomic. Much faster in reality than just words.
 
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