So it looks like little Nikons are created equal after all 🙂
It would seem that the F100 is better than the F80 and the big daddy F4 and F5 are better than them all, of course there are compromises with any camera.
So as a humble F80 user should i spend some money on and F5 and live happily ever after? The size and weight are not an issue as I'm a big guy.
How do we go about testing lenses PKR?
The suggestion of using modern lenses with modern cameras and saving the Ai for the F3 make sense to ... thanks.
I do a couple of tests. One that's kind of controlled well and another, more real world - for lenses that are new to me.
For the controlled test. I use a large sheet of news paper with "all type" on the pages. I check the type to see that it's sharp and not smeared (you could use a lens test target). I light it with two flash heads, at 45 deg (this could be done outdoors in natural light). On a sheet of paper - I detail what I photograph - as I do it. At a fixed, repeatable distance - so the frame is filled with the type - and showing as much of the paper as possible - I carefully focus (using a hot light if necessary) on the type. I then begin at the max f stop - and with the mirror up and using a cable release or the self timer, I begin to go through the range of f stops. I place a small post-it note showing the lens and f stop info in the corner of the news paper, changing it with each f stop change (so I can see the lens and f stop info in each frame later). I usually use a fine grain film like Acros. I may also do all of this on a 14 MP digital camera that will work with all of my nikon system lenses. When I'm done I evaluate the results with high magnification on a light table (use the enlarger) or on a big monitor. I look at both the center and the corners. I recently found that a favorite zoom, that I've been using for several years has a sharpness problem in one corner. This is likely do to a mechanical impact it received - I have no idea when it happened. It's only seen in big enlargements. it will need repair.
Note: the camera is on a tripod for the "controlled" test.
A new or used lens when purchased is put through this test. After passing the first test, I do some real world testing with different kinds of light and with - and without hoods and filters, looking for sharpness, flare, contrast with color.. and to see if I like using the lens. I've found over the years that I will pick favorites if I have a choice. I, for instance almost never used my 17-35mm f 2.8 zoom. It was heavy, not as sharp as my primes and I didn't like the feel when holding it. On a tripod, the weight was such, that I thought it needed a lens fitted tripod mount as it was (I thought) a stress on the camera's lens mount. So, it stayed at home. I would grab a smaller zoom and maybe a 20mm prime.
With my current testing, and my personal issues with camera weight and batteries - and all the other gear i have to travel with - I'm using DX format digitals more.
Test your zooms. They are subject to greater damage from a bump than a prime. I favor the better (higher quality) plastic exterior Nikkor zooms. I think they take physical bumps better than the cheaper plastic models and are likely as good (physical strength) as the metal housings. And they are much lighter weight.
i hope this is helpful. I try to test my most used lenses (I use 3 or 4 a lot) regularly - at least once a year. I've found new in the box lenses to vary; some being much better than others. This may be a QC issue or more likely, damage done during shipping or poor storage.
When you find a good sharp lens, take care of it and hang on to it.
