E.M
Well-known
I have an F2 , F4 and F5 , all bought new . I also hesitated between F3 and F4 , but bought the F4 because of the spotmeter and higher shutterspeeds . It's an excellent camera to use with manuel lenses ( as already said , autofocus is slow ) , and you can opt for a small battery-compartment if you like .
Wulfthari
Well-known
You shouldn't worry about reliability with metered prisms: As already pointed out Mr.Wong can repair them all, spare parts are common as well as improvements from the original design.
Having said that I would suggest to be patient and look for a F2A that will allow to meter without stopping down.
Wulfthari
Well-known
+1 on the soft release, I also use it and it's a pleasure to press. My lens of choice is a factory converted Nikkor pre AI , 50mm f1.4.
literiter
Well-known
Buy the F2, first. Send it to Sover Wong. Use it for a bit, then buy the F3HP.
Range-rover
Veteran
All this talk about F3's I finally found a red dot K screen like Cal has and
a new Motor Drive Cap, I'm ready to go!
Range
a new Motor Drive Cap, I'm ready to go!
Range
darya151
Established
Cal, please don't tempt me! I would love to get a 45mm 2.8P lens, too!
Darya
Darya
FrankS
Registered User
The 50 series E type 2 is just slightly longer, still compact, and much cheaper. Probably sharper too.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Thanks for the heads up on the Ultron.
BTW I really liked the F2 AS metered Prism for night shooting. -2EV metering is awesome and deadly with a Noct-Nikkor.
I eventually shimmed the LCD illuminator on my F3P so that the light came on anytime the meter was activated. The bane of the F3 readout became defeated with this mod. Next I learned about the DK-17 magnifier could be used with the HP finder for higher focus accuracy. I learned the mod I made created severe battery drain so power is supplied via the use of a MD-4 motor drive that also provides ballast to steady the camera. My thinking is that sniper rifles are mucho heavy for a reason.
I still miss my F2 though because it is so familiar, because it was my first camera. and because it reminds me of a special time when I was in art school.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
If you like Tessars and the rendering of simple lenses that have high center sharpness and fall off to the corners buy this lens. Because there are so few elements and because of the NIC multicoating the contrast is mucho high, so an older GN 45/2.8 might be a better choice for less money if you like less contrast.
Also know that the focus is fast like on a Nikon 55 Macro. A small twist goes from infinity to 8-10 feet. As mentioned above there are more modern lenses that offer better corner to corner sharpness.
Another lens I recommend that is kinda small is the Nikon 28/2.8 AIS. This lens rivals Leica wide angle performance. Make sure you get the AIS version for the CRC close focusing and the updated NIC multicoating.
Cal
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Slightly off topic, but since you brought it up. When you attach an MD-4 to the F3, does it take battery power to run the meter and the shutter from the MD-4? I thought it still took battery power from the button cells in the camera body.
Best,
-Tim
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Tim,
If you use a MD-4 it is best to remove the smaller battery behind the coin slot cover. The metering and shutter get their power from the MD-4 battery pack, and there is a danger that the unused batteries will forgotten about untill one day you discovered that they shelf lifed and leaked.
In powering the LCD illuminator with my mod I found that a pair of SR-44's only lasted about 20 rolls of film before expiring.
Cal
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I've had an F3HP now for a few months and I gotta say I really like it. Along with a 50mm f1.2, an 85mm f1.4, and the 28mm f2.8, this kit has replaced my Leica M3 with Summicrons as my go-to kit for longer term documentary B&W work.
The last few weeks I've been selling off all my Canon FD equipment and wanted to pick up an inexpensive Nikon film body to use as a beater everyday camera (the F3HP is too nice for that, and if I damage it in day-to-day use I can't use it for the doc work). I've had a Nikon FM2n for decades, but it's always felt a bit too light and flimsy compared to my Nikon pro bodies. So I looked around for a cheap F2 with a DE-1 finder. Because I wanted to keep the whole thing under $200, I ended up buying one off the big auction site that looked pretty beat up. I was concerned that it could have some serious issues, but when it arrived an hour ago, it was quite a surprise.
Cosmetically it certainly ain't gonna win no prizes, and I'm gonna have to replace the seals, but everything else is spot on. Shutter speeds, viewfinder, all the knobs and buttons, it's all good. For a forty plus year old camera, that has obviously seen a lot of heavy use, this thing has held up remarkably well.
Best,
-Tim
The last few weeks I've been selling off all my Canon FD equipment and wanted to pick up an inexpensive Nikon film body to use as a beater everyday camera (the F3HP is too nice for that, and if I damage it in day-to-day use I can't use it for the doc work). I've had a Nikon FM2n for decades, but it's always felt a bit too light and flimsy compared to my Nikon pro bodies. So I looked around for a cheap F2 with a DE-1 finder. Because I wanted to keep the whole thing under $200, I ended up buying one off the big auction site that looked pretty beat up. I was concerned that it could have some serious issues, but when it arrived an hour ago, it was quite a surprise.
Cosmetically it certainly ain't gonna win no prizes, and I'm gonna have to replace the seals, but everything else is spot on. Shutter speeds, viewfinder, all the knobs and buttons, it's all good. For a forty plus year old camera, that has obviously seen a lot of heavy use, this thing has held up remarkably well.
Best,
-Tim
Ben Z
Veteran
I had F2's and F3's over the years and they were great (the F3HP finder is really great if you wear glasses), but hung onto my FTn's. The meters conked out, I had them repaired and recalibrated for the 1.5v batteries, but they both have since conked out again and I opted not to repair them again, Instead I used a handheld meter. I would've gotten non-metered prisms but the darn things cost more than the bodies.
I transplanted F4 split/microprism screens into the frame holders for the F, it makes them really bright and easy to focus. To me the F was the sturdiest and most reliable of all the F series Nikons, plus it's got that iconic 60's look I happen to have a soft spot for.
I transplanted F4 split/microprism screens into the frame holders for the F, it makes them really bright and easy to focus. To me the F was the sturdiest and most reliable of all the F series Nikons, plus it's got that iconic 60's look I happen to have a soft spot for.
Contarama
Well-known
I have owned a F2 with DE1 and must admit it is probably the most handsome camera I have ever held in my hands. The copy I had was very nice and is now in the hands of a forum member here. The F2 is a camera that will last you a lifetime.
Still own a couple of F2 units and F3's are so cheap I might buy one of those too.
Still own a couple of F2 units and F3's are so cheap I might buy one of those too.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
A plain prism is okay for you purists, but give me a Photomic finder.
Not only is it the true, classic PJ Nikon F2 look, but even one with a
non-working meter gives you shutter speed and aperture readouts.
Chris
Not only is it the true, classic PJ Nikon F2 look, but even one with a
non-working meter gives you shutter speed and aperture readouts.
Chris
Wulfthari
Well-known
This thread is worthless without pics, and I post some bad digital shots (I spend my money just for film gear) of my F2 with some gadgets (soft release, case, hood...) to ease the decision:
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Spoke too soon. While it does function properly, and the test roll I shot looks fine, I noticed a winding abnormality. After a Google search I found it is rather common to have shutter issues with the F2 body. Mine works fine as long as I make sure I advance the shutter/film winding all the way between each shot. The camera is supposed to have a lock out so if the film is not advanced the entire way, and the shutter is not cocked completely, the shutter button is supposed to not be able to be pressed. On mine, if I advance the film past 3/4, which means the shutter is cocked 3/4 of the way, I can press the shutter release. It half fires the shutter and sticks the mirror halfway up. I can clear this by advancing the film completely (although I waste a frame), but in talking with the folks at Authorized Service (experts on this old Nikon gear) this morning, they said the shutter mechanism has to be removed and a piece replaced ($165). I asked if I could just keep using it this way, as long as I check to make sure I completely advance the film and shutter, and he said yes, but eventually it would completely lock up. So there you go. Not a completely bullet proof camera after all.
Best,
-Tim
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Tim,
In a way a Nikon F2 is like a Leica M3: a mechanical camera. I took my F2's to Nippon Camera Clinic in NYC. These guys really know Nikons, and although in NYC it is almost like going to a Japanese repair shop because it is.
Also like M3's, Nikon F2's evolved and were improved upon as production continues. I had an early chrome version that had slotted screws and some other small features that I found rather cool, but the techs at Nippon told me that the best F2's were the later versions that had serial numbers that began with 77, 78... that evolved and came with DP-12's meaning AS prisms.
As far as shutters go they said the electronic shutter of the F3 was very accurate, the F2 not as much.
Cal
nobbylon
Veteran
You're right Wulfthari so here's one of my F2's
nobbylon
Veteran
Cal,
Obviously the electronically timed shutter of the F3 should be more accurate than the F2's however Sover adjusts the F2 for 1/3 stop accuracy at all speeds which is more accurate than they left the factory. He only ever had one of mine that could not be 1/3 accurate at 1/2000 because some idiot had over tightened the roller tension spring. Furthermore an F or F2 should never be left in the cocked position as this will adversely effect these very small springs and render the speeds inaccurate.
Obviously the electronically timed shutter of the F3 should be more accurate than the F2's however Sover adjusts the F2 for 1/3 stop accuracy at all speeds which is more accurate than they left the factory. He only ever had one of mine that could not be 1/3 accurate at 1/2000 because some idiot had over tightened the roller tension spring. Furthermore an F or F2 should never be left in the cocked position as this will adversely effect these very small springs and render the speeds inaccurate.