Nikon F2s or F2a: Which one?

Joe Vitessa

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So I'm considering picking up one of these warhorses and I know the basic differences between the DP2 and DP11 finders (LEDs and greater EV range on the DP2) , but which one has proven to be more reliable over time? And which is easier to use for general photography? And I assume both are preferable to the DP1? Can't really afford the F2AS. Thanks for your opinions.

Joe
 
Not necessarily. The DP-1 and the DP-11 are needle-based systems whereas the DP2 is LED. The DP2 is more sensitive, but I prefer the DP-1. You can use it with the older lenses (pre-AI or AIS) because it has the coupling pin. You just got to make sure that the DP-1 or D-11 is not "jumpy" or is cheap enough that you can get it fixed if so. I know Cameraquest will fix the jumpy needles -- don't know about the LEDs. The F2 is a great workhorse. In fact, at last Sunday's RFF meet in NYC, there was an F2 with a DE-1 that RFF member Lamefrog brought .
 
Choosing an F2AS also affects usage of non-AI lenses. I believe (but can't quickly confirm) that the DP12 (F2AS) head only meters in stop-down mode with non-AI lenses.
 
I owned the DP-3 (F2Sb) and the DE-1 (meterless) heads in my F2 days. The DP-2 is kind of big and chunky looking compared to the DP-11, but I would go with it rather than the DP-11 at this point. A little more solid state and hence probably a little more reliable after all these years.
 
I checked Sover Wong's website. It'll cost more than the camera's value to have the meter serviced.


What about usage? Is it difficult to see the needle of the F2A in low light? Can you see the LEDs of the F2S in bright light? Everything is a compromise, I suppose.
 
I've still got a DP1 and DP11. I sold my DP12 a few years ago as I preferred needle meters at the time. I think a needle is a lot less distracting than Led's butis impossible to see in low light. The F2as (DP12) from memory was ok in bright light but for a manual meter camera I still prefer a needle. It just gives me a more perceived picture in my head of where the exposure is if that makes any sense!
I've fixed jumpy needles in Nikon F Ftn finders before by cleaning the ring gear inside with cotton buds and lighter fluid. Should work with DP1 and 11's as long as they are not too worn out. My DP1 and DP11 were both bought serviced by Sover and work perfectly.
 
Needles : the DP-1 and DP-11 are 100% identical inside so the DP-1 is a DP-11 with the ability to also take non-Ai lenses. A good working DP-1 (there are still some) will cost you far less than a DP-11 and will work the very same way.

LEDs : the DP-2 isn't repairable any longer and is quite big. Most of them are now dead.
Now the DP-12 gets most of the hype but keep in mind that the DP-3 is a DP-12 with the ability to also take non-Ai lenses.

At the end of the day the DP-1 and DP-3 have more versatility than the DP-11 and DP-12 while they have the exact same inwards.

The real problem of the DP-1, DP-2 and DP-11 finders is that they have CdS cells. Those die sooner or later. And there aren't parts for them any longer.

This is a different problem from the jumpy needle one - the latter being due to bad contacts between the circular brush and its matching track.

I once got a mint DP-11 with a needle which wasn't jumpy at all yet the low-light CdS cell was dead so in low light the needle moved too much for about 2 EV and all my slides got underexposed (and ruined). Yes the paradox is that with a needle meter, when the low-light CdS cell is dead, the meter becomes very reactive in low-light. Caveat.

Of course there are separate Lo-Hi trim pots and a central balance to adjust the meter under its hood but once the CdS cells are dead, they're dead.

The DP-3 and DP-12 have more durable silicon cells.
 
Thanks for the responses. I didn't realize the DP-2 was bigger than the other finders. That certainly could play a role in my decision.
 
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