Nikon FM vs Nikkormat FT3. Opinions?

FM is more practical, cheaper too.
FT3 is an old hammer, way too heavy. Hard to find in black, pricey too.

I go with the first reply...
Buy both, if you shop around may be you can get both for $100-$150

Worth trying them both. one is old school, the other more modern.

Kiu
 
It seems some FT3 have two flash sockets on the side of the camera and some have one. What is the deal with that?
Those are FTNs
FT3 has one pc socket on top corner.
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Serial numbers start from 60xxxx1
Also they have the plastic tip advance lever.
 
I have owned four or five Nikkormats, one an FT3 adn the rest older models. None of the meters worked properly and in one the shutter ring tore up the internals shortly after I got it so it's a parts camera now.

I was given my FM with a stuck shutter and fixed it about three minutes after it was put in my hands. The meter has always been dead on as are the shutter speeds. These days, the prism is desilvering right on one side of the peak so there is a faint brown line running down the middle of the viewfinder. Doesn't affect shooting much but it doesn't look nice.

Instead of either of these cameras I'd go with an F2 or F3 unless you're being given the Nikkormat. The F2/F3 are just in a higher class of camera with regard to durability, utility, repairability and they have a massive system of finders available.

Phil Forrest
 
It seems some FT3 have two flash sockets on the side of the camera and some have one. What is the deal with that?

The FT3 and FT2 have only one flash sync terminal on the end of the top cover. Only the earlier models (FS, FT, & FTn) have two. Any FT3 with two terminals would be a "Franken-mat" of some sort. The FT3 shutters had X-sync contacts only. Lacking the antique FP-sync contacts makes two terminals somewhat pointless.

My memory fails me on the FT2. I don't remember whether it was X-sync only or whether it switched between X and FP when the shutter speed was set to 1/250 and higher.
 
I have four Nikkormats--2 FTN's and 2 ft3's. According to the on line manuals both the FT2 and Ft3 have the same sync arrangement. The hot shoe is X only.
The PC contact is as follows: X sync up to 125, MF sync up to 30, FP and M sync all speeds except 60 and 125. It's in the book!
 
I have owned four or five Nikkormats, one an FT3 adn the rest older models. None of the meters worked properly and in one the shutter ring tore up the internals shortly after I got it so it's a parts camera now.

I was given my FM with a stuck shutter and fixed it about three minutes after it was put in my hands. The meter has always been dead on as are the shutter speeds. These days, the prism is desilvering right on one side of the peak so there is a faint brown line running down the middle of the viewfinder. Doesn't affect shooting much but it doesn't look nice.

Instead of either of these cameras I'd go with an F2 or F3 unless you're being given the Nikkormat. The F2/F3 are just in a higher class of camera with regard to durability, utility, repairability and they have a massive system of finders available.

Phil Forrest

at first I was resistant to this thought. After lookiing at the F2 i am becoming attracted to the F2. There are so many heads available I wouldnt know where to start. And the meter seems to be in the head. But what of the viewfinder meter? Is it LED like the FM or needle like the FE? and AI lenses? does it need the bunny ears or no?
 
at first I was resistant to this thought. After lookiing at the F2 i am becoming attracted to the F2. There are so many heads available I wouldnt know where to start. And the meter seems to be in the head. But what of the viewfinder meter? Is it LED like the FM or needle like the FE? and AI lenses? does it need the bunny ears or no?

They are match-needle meters, if I'm not mistaken. The meters in the F2A, F2AS and F2SB prisms are some of the most sensitive meters ever put into a camera. The viewfinders of the F2 are much better than the FM but it's a different camera. A truly professional tool that will work for a very long time to come. Not to mention the fact that the F2 is just about the perfect mechanical SLR ever made.

Phil Forrest
 
The FM is great but for me if you're going to be using Non AI lenses, I like matching the look and feel of the Non AI lenses with a classic, heavy-duty Nikon body. KoNickon is right though, the light meter is very old and is most likely going to be dead - or close to it - on any body you buy nowadays.
 
F2's, the F2AS, F2S and F2SB are the more sensitive meters. DP12, DP2 AND DP3 heads, EV-2 - EV17. All with LED readout. The DP1 and DP11, EV1 - EV17 are centre needle in a paddle type.
I've used them all and my favorite is the DP11 for it's auto Ai indexing and easier visual display for + exposing. The Ai finders are the DP11 and DP12 which do not need the coupling prong on the lens however do need the recessed aperture ring to index the minimum aperture with the meter. These meters can be used with pre AI lenses in stop down method by pushing the coupling tab up out of the way. The DP1, DP2 and DP3 need the meter prong (bunny ears) on the lens to index with the meter correctly.
I still say get an F3 though as all F2's will be needing service. The F3 is the nicer camera to use and quicker for grab with it's A mode. I still have an F2 with a DP11 fitted and have another on the way which will be getting a DP1 installed.
If you must get an FM series go for a late FM2n. They seem to last forever even if they don't feel as solid as F2's and F3's and have brighter viewfinders than the original FM's.
 
I've had an FT2 for a long time (decades). I have had many FE/FM series cameras, and I strongly prefer using them. The FE2 is one of my favorite cameras.

I believe there is less shutter/mirror vibration with the FM despite its lower weight. On the other hand, the Nikkormat has mirror lock-up, which the FM lacks (except through the self-timer). Ken Rockwell's article on the FE/FM series is actually pretty good, and this is even better.

See mthomas's post below for an important distinction between the FT2 and FT3. IMO the FT2 is preferred.
 
If you need the mirror lock-up feature go with the FT3, if not and you want mechanical shutter FM2N is the goods, modern shutter very little vibration reliable etc. But if you could go with battery power don't limit yourself, FE2 is a very capable machine, and don't overlook the FA, Matrix meter and Program Auto with all AI glass, used with TriX you never worry about exposure again.
 
A very important distinction that was implied but not explicitly stated is that the Nikkormat FT2 will meter with BOTH Pre-Ai and AI/S lenses. As long as a lens is fitted with "bunny ears," the FT2 will meter with it at full aperture, whether the lens is AI-compliant or not.

On the other hand, the FT3 will NOT meter with Pre-AI lenses except in stop-down mode.

To my mind, therefore, the FT2 is the more versatile of the two cameras.

FWIW ...

Marc
 
A very important distinction that was implied but not explicitly stated is that the Nikkormat FT2 will meter with BOTH Pre-Ai and AI/S lenses. As long as a lens is fitted with "bunny ears," the FT2 will meter with it at full aperture, whether the lens is AI-compliant or not.

On the other hand, the FT3 will NOT meter with Pre-AI lenses except in stop-down mode.

To my mind, therefore, the FT2 is the more versatile of the two cameras.

FWIW ...

Marc

Excellent first post. Welcome!
 
what about the F vs the F2? I dont like the tall heads on them. Is the short head like the fixed one on the FM have a meter or is it meterless?

Will the F or F2 take AI and AIs lenses without a hitch?

What if I wanted a F or F2, with a short head that has a meter inside and out and will work seamlessly with Ai and Ais lenses? Does that exist? I like the idea of variable shutter speed not just click stops.
 
Before you spin yourself into a tizzy trying to sort things out, just remember there is no such thing as a perfect camera. They all have compromises. Nikon does give one a wide range of options, but you'll never get the mix you are looking for on any one model.

F and F2 metered heads are going to be bigger than the prism humps on most other Nikons, the F3HP being one exception. The smaller heads for the F and F2 are meterless. For step-less shutter speeds, you are going to have to go with an electronically controlled model. Can't remember if any of the Nikons do that, but it would have to be something like the FA and F4 on up in full Auto mode.

But since you don't have any Nikons, a good starter would be the FM2n. As you shoot it, you'll figure out what you'll want on the next model you get.

PF
 
Before you spin yourself into a tizzy trying to sort things out, just remember there is no such thing as a perfect camera. They all have compromises. Nikon does give one a wide range of options, but you'll never get the mix you are looking for on any one model.

F and F2 metered heads are going to be bigger than the prism humps on most other Nikons, the F3HP being one exception. The smaller heads for the F and F2 are meterless. For step-less shutter speeds, you are going to have to go with an electronically controlled model. Can't remember if any of the Nikons do that, but it would have to be something like the FA and F4 on up in full Auto mode.

But since you don't have any Nikons, a good starter would be the FM2n. As you shoot it, you'll figure out what you'll want on the next model you get.

PF

I thought i read someplace the F or F2 had continuously variable shutter speed, I cant place it now though. I thought that was cool.
 
<I thought i read someplace the F or F2 had continuously variable shutter speed, I cant place it now though. I thought that was cool.>

Only the faster speeds are complete variable 125 and up on the F2, marked in green.
 
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