Nikon FM3a - vs. Nikon F3 HP - sturdiness and durability

Which Nikon more durable?

Which Nikon more durable?

I've owned/used various Nikons since my first FM, and still have a loved FE2, as well as an old FE and a F3HP. The most durable is the F3, of course. However, the FM3a is lighter to carry and is probably easier to use in both manual and autoexposure modes. Whichever you choose,, as others have said, take a back up camera (or body). Because they are plentiful and insanely inexpensive used, buy an F100 body, put in fresh batteries and store it in a freezer bag at the bottom of your luggage.
 
randy stewart said:
I've owned/used various Nikons since my first FM, and still have a loved FE2, as well as an old FE and a F3HP. The most durable is the F3, of course. However, the FM3a is lighter to carry and is probably easier to use in both manual and autoexposure modes. Whichever you choose,, as others have said, take a back up camera (or body). Because they are plentiful and insanely inexpensive used, buy an F100 body, put in fresh batteries and store it in a freezer bag at the bottom of your luggage.
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Not really the case of the F100 anymore. They're becoming rarer to pick up and also getting expensive.
 
Peter, in simple answer to your question, in every case, i'd take the mechanical camera. I've travelled a lot with one camera over the decades. Failures are a very occasional issue & i've never had one during my trips in the mountains.
 
Ste_S said:
Not really the case of the F100 anymore. They're becoming rarer to pick up and also getting expensive.
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Plus the film back latches are snapping like twigs on a frosty morning.
Because Nikon decided to make them out of plastic not metal. Even the freakin EM has metal latches!
 
I own and use both frequently. I would have no issue taking either camera on a long trip. to me it comes down to LCD vs match needle metering. I much prefer the needle to the LCD. I always said my ideal camera would be an F3 with the FE-2 meter reading. both will sand up to heavy use, but not abuse. if thats not an issue, then go with the FM3a as its newer and as mentioned above, can shoot at all speeds with no battery.
 
Avoid the early models of the F3. The ones before the HP prism came along. All subsequent F3's have a good record of reliability but the early one had problems.

If you can locate an F3P, it's the best of the lot as far as being tough is concerned. After my original early F3 had gone back to NPS 3-4 times due to failures in the electronics, Nikon sent a box of F3P bodies for me to distribute to the photographers at the newspaper where I was working and to report on how they functioned. They were flawless...bulletproof. The way the camera should have been to begin with.
 
Huss said:
That's why the F3P is so good, hotshoe is on the prism.
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I don't recall the hotshoe being on the prism of the F3P's that we used. The ones we used had an extension forward of the rewind that held the hotshoe.

Maybe later models had a redesign.
 
As well as the coveted hot shoe, thel F3p had a larger shutter speed dial and the safety latch for the rewind back opener was removed so it opened by just pulling up the knob. Didn't have the viewfinder curtain and had a soft rubber covering over the shutter release. It was the King of Nikon film cameras. Until the F5 and F6, at least...
 
newsgrunt said:
As well as the coveted hot shoe, thel F3p had a larger shutter speed dial and the safety latch for the rewind back opener was removed so it opened by just pulling up the knob. Didn't have the viewfinder curtain and had a soft rubber covering over the shutter release. It was the King of Nikon film cameras. Until the F5 and F6, at least...
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Also larger round film counter window and you are not locked out of shooting until the counter gets to 1. As in it will meter correctly before then.
In many ways I prefer it to my F6, especially for battery life!
p.s dont forget the heavy duty weather sealing.
 
Thanks for your generous feedback! I'll go for the FM3A and if I'm able in bribing my daughter, she'll carry the F3HP. I'll also bring the 24,28 and 105. Many thanks, again. Peter
 
Dropped a FM3a on concrete floor once. It hit hard and the meter system went kaput, but the mechanical part - all shutter speed were still available. Used it so till sending it to Nikon Japan to get fixed. Yes the FM3a is one of the three film models they would still repair!

I'd be surprised anyone could wear it out in normal use .
 
Archlich said:
Dropped a FM3a on concrete floor once. It hit hard and the meter system went kaput, but the mechanical part - all shutter speed are still available. Used it so till sending it to Nikon Japan to get fixed. Yes the FM3a is one of the three film models they would still repair!

I'd be surprised anyone could wear it out in normal use .
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The F6 is of course the 2nd. What’s the 3rd?
 
Archlich said:
Dropped a FM3a on concrete floor once. It hit hard and the meter system went kaput, but the mechanical part - all shutter speed are still available. Used it so till sending it to Nikon Japan to get fixed. Yes the FM3a is one of the three film models they would still repair!

I'd be surprised anyone could wear it out in normal use .
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How long ago was that? I know Nikon still repairs the F6, as they repaired my AF last year. It just failed, even though it never was dropped or bumped. So much for that pro quality... (and it failed on a project to make matters worse).

The only camera that I own that I trust to take extreme abuse/shock/drops and still work perfectly are my Nikonos V. I know because I unintentionally tested that! If you really want a bombproof camera that has a great lens and is also waterproof, the Nikonos V is the answer...
 
I have the F3HP and F3P... both purchased used... the F3HP fail due to the previous owner using the camera in the rain (water got into the camera around the shutter button and corroded the on-off switch). The F3P has a rubber cover on the shutter button (no cable release), and it provides better protection in wet conditions.

Bring a few tools as somethings are fixable in the field... I did some minor repairs to the F3 rewind crank with a pocket knife while shooting in remote winter conditions.

Edit: the F3HP was repaired by Kiitos Camera here in Tokyo and works with no problem
 
Dogman said:
I don't recall the hotshoe being on the prism of the F3P's that we used. The ones we used had an extension forward of the rewind that held the hotshoe.

Maybe later models had a redesign.
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ALL F3P (NOT the way more common HP) were originally issued with hot shoes on the titanium prism. I guess, like anything removable one could have been replaced with a standard HP prism.

https://cameraquest.com/nff3p.htm
 
Peter Wijninga said:
A question for those who have used/are using both cameras: which is the sturdiest of the two? I'll be taking one of them with me to SE Asia for a prolonged period of time, and I hope to avoid trips to the roadside repair man. Many thanks for your best advice, Peter
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With cameras it is very similar as with cars:
The older they are, and the more 'mileage' they have, the higher the risk of getting a problem and needing a repair.
With younger cameras the chance for a flawless operation is generally much higher.
That speaks for the FM3A.
But as you are on a longer trip, in any case I would take two bodies. One as a back-up to be on the safe side.
And you are more flexible: In one you put color film, in the other BW. Or in one reversal film, and in the other negative film.

Cheers, Jan
 
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