sparrow6224
Well-known
Hi. I had a Nikon D40x and now have added a D300 (both acquired used) and have used a LOT of Nikkor Ai, Ais lenses on them (D40x also takes the non-Ai but your D90 will not). My opinions:
24/2.8 and 35/2: there's something a little flat in the colors they produce but otherwise excellent; and you can always jazz the colors in post.
My best -- really startling compared to my AF-S zooms -- have been the Ais 28/2.8 the Ai 50/2 (which you don't need) and of course the Ai 105/2.5. My 200/4 and even more so my 300/4.5 are both superb on DX Nikons as well.
You are way better off with the AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G than with the manual 35mm's. But if you insist I'd say the Series E 35/2.5 is just as good as the 35/2, lighter, smaller, and cheaper.
If you can get the 28/2 you should snap it up. It's one of the best lenses they ever made according to many reports from reliable sources.
If you want wide also keep on the lookout for the 20mm MF lenses: 2.8 or 3.5 or 4. The f/4 has many fans who prefer it to the usually higher rated and much larger f/2.8.
Good luck.
24/2.8 and 35/2: there's something a little flat in the colors they produce but otherwise excellent; and you can always jazz the colors in post.
My best -- really startling compared to my AF-S zooms -- have been the Ais 28/2.8 the Ai 50/2 (which you don't need) and of course the Ai 105/2.5. My 200/4 and even more so my 300/4.5 are both superb on DX Nikons as well.
You are way better off with the AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G than with the manual 35mm's. But if you insist I'd say the Series E 35/2.5 is just as good as the 35/2, lighter, smaller, and cheaper.
If you can get the 28/2 you should snap it up. It's one of the best lenses they ever made according to many reports from reliable sources.
If you want wide also keep on the lookout for the 20mm MF lenses: 2.8 or 3.5 or 4. The f/4 has many fans who prefer it to the usually higher rated and much larger f/2.8.
Good luck.
sparrow6224
Well-known
If you can get the 28/2 you should snap it up. It's one of the best lenses they ever made according to many reports from reliable sources.
My 28/2 was really soft at f/2. A real dog. Couldn't wait to get rid of it. Maybe I got a lemon :bang:
mgeary
Member
L. M. Tu and Sparrow6224, you guys make me want to abandon the MF 35mm in exchange for the 35mm 1.8G! I think I concentrate less on finding a 35mm since I will always be able to find a 35mm 1.8G as there are tons floating around for sale. I just wish they felt the same as the metal, smooth focusing manual lenses.
Sparrow, thanks for the great suggestions, I'll have a whole list of glass to be on the watch for.
There's such a huge wealth of F-Mount glass I'd like to explore.
Sparrow, thanks for the great suggestions, I'll have a whole list of glass to be on the watch for.
There's such a huge wealth of F-Mount glass I'd like to explore.
nobbylon
Veteran
I have a 28 2.8 AIS which is one of Nikons finest and have used it on my D700. The AIS 0.2m focus is the one to get. It's much better than all the others. I also have a 105 2.5 AI which I personally prefer over the AIS as it has a longer focus throw making focus easier and more accurate, same optics in both. The 50's are all good, f1.4's and f2's.
To be straight, you won't see the real advantages of this glass on a dx sensor however on fx they shine.
Saying all of this though, my 24-70 2.8 is just as good as them all and is A/F making it all more simple. I only use the manual lenses on my film F cameras.
One exception, my 55 2.8 Micro Nikkor which is brilliant on a D700.
To be straight, you won't see the real advantages of this glass on a dx sensor however on fx they shine.
Saying all of this though, my 24-70 2.8 is just as good as them all and is A/F making it all more simple. I only use the manual lenses on my film F cameras.
One exception, my 55 2.8 Micro Nikkor which is brilliant on a D700.
The 28 f2 is/was a floating element design. Once you bounce them, they need repair. The US repair shops (Nikon USA) sent these lenses back to Japan for optical bench work.
I don't remember all the lenses in the group.. 35mm F2, F1.4; 28mm F2, (maybe the 2.8 I don't remember) 24mm f2.. I think that was most of them. They are very sharp until they are dropped. And they don't have to be dropped hard. A few feet on to a carpeted floor will take a toll.
I've owned many of these.
p.
I bought my 28/2 brand new in Japan in 2004 and never "bounced" it.
By "floating element design", I think you mean what Nikon calls close range correction (CRC).
My Ai-S 28/2.8 is a much better lens. But as nobbylon states above, the 24-70/2.8 zoom beats them all.
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David Murphy
Veteran
Well one reason is that it works great, at least on the D40 where I saw it demonstrated on a NAI 50/1.4 Nikkor I sold to a guy locally. Furthermore some of those AF high-end lenses are pretty darned pricey compared to most vintage Nikon lenses.
I could never understand why people bought state of the art DSLR cameras and chose to use manual focus prime lenses on them ... it made no sense to me. I saw the DSLR and auto focus zoom as being made for each other.
I was wrong ... most of the pleasure in photography is gained from being in total control of your output and it's hard to do that when you're being led around by the nose with autofocus.
Good decision!
Ronald M
Veteran
Katz Eye screen. Get the optii Bright except for D700.
D220/300/700/D3 have nice manual screen height adjustments so you can get perfect alignment. With other models, you may have to change screen shims or you may be lucky.
Nikon AF is normally set perfectly in the bottom of the mirror chamber, manual focus screen height is not so precise as they are AF cameras. The green focus confirm light
works off the AF and is accurate but not precise unless with D700 or D3.
The two lenses you mention are fine on FX and DX. Try to manual focus your AF lenses at 24 and 35 to see how you fare.
Under no circumstances adjust the primary and secondary mirror stops to get better focus. You will screw up the AF and you don`t have a snowballs chance in hell of getting it right again without Nikons help.
D220/300/700/D3 have nice manual screen height adjustments so you can get perfect alignment. With other models, you may have to change screen shims or you may be lucky.
Nikon AF is normally set perfectly in the bottom of the mirror chamber, manual focus screen height is not so precise as they are AF cameras. The green focus confirm light
works off the AF and is accurate but not precise unless with D700 or D3.
The two lenses you mention are fine on FX and DX. Try to manual focus your AF lenses at 24 and 35 to see how you fare.
Under no circumstances adjust the primary and secondary mirror stops to get better focus. You will screw up the AF and you don`t have a snowballs chance in hell of getting it right again without Nikons help.
meillana
Member
have enjoyed using MF lenses on my D200 for the longest time. my favorite though are the 50/1.2, reflex 500/f8 (lightweight and handy for birding), micro-nikkor 55/2.8 and the 105/2.5 AIS. my daughter loves using the reflex 500/f8 on her D60.
it just taking getting used to MF on the smaller viewfinders on DX-crop DSLR's
and while you're at it.... check out Bjorn's excellent reviews on Nikkor lenses
http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html
it just taking getting used to MF on the smaller viewfinders on DX-crop DSLR's
and while you're at it.... check out Bjorn's excellent reviews on Nikkor lenses
http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html
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mgeary
Member
Well I gave into getting a 28/2 which I tested and am very happy with. I also ended up with a 35/2.8, because it was 20$ with great glass condition, why not? Finally, I bought another OM1 body. I can't wait to go shoot more with these.
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