P.S. the camera even has a filter installed in the finder already.
angeloks
Well-known
Cool, I contacted the seller. What about the availability of the CV lens in S mount ? Is it still possible to get the 35mm ? I see that CQ have it sold out.
furcafe
Veteran
As far as availability of the CV lenses, I would just shoot Mr. Gandy an email; he would know about as much as anyone what's still out there.
RE: an S3 2000 as a user body, I would echo what others have posted. It will be a major improvement over the Leica IIf, but having used almost every major, & some minor, 35mm RF systems, IMHO the VF/RF falls short of any M Leica, which remains the gold standard. However, this is not to say that it is unusable.
I have had no problems w/the "fuzzy"-edged RF patch (which the S3 2000 shares w/all the Nikon RFs). It's not as nice as a Leica M, but it works fine in actual use as it did back in the '50s. I don't think it's even necessary to install the contrast-increasing gels like Jon & some others have done. Personally, I would rather have a brighter VF; installing the gel makes the S3 more like the S2 or a Contax, i.e., the RF patch is more visible, but it's like you're shooting through sunglasses. As far as reliability, I don't how many people have actually put any of the reproduction Nikons through hard use like the old days (my S3 2000 has gone through about 50 rolls over 4 years without a problem), but the original designs were legendarily durable & the workmanship on the repros seems to be consistent w/the originals (I had an S2 & still have some original SPs). The slow shutter speeds on my SP 2005, a later reproduction, seem to be getting stuck on "B" in cold weather, but that's the only glitch I've experienced.
In general, the Nikon RFs are easier to transition to if you're coming from using Zeiss Ikon Contax RF equipment (my 1st RF system) or if you have some familiarity w/the original Nikon F SLRs, otherwise, the main similarity w/modern Nikons is the "reverse" manual focus direction (the only legacy of the Contax RF system that still survives to the present day). The "unergonomic" shutter release position noted by pkreyenhop shouldn't be a problem for anyone accustomed to a "Barnack"-style screw-mount Leica body like your IIf (I believe Nikon finally moved the shutter release w/the F2).
.
RE: an S3 2000 as a user body, I would echo what others have posted. It will be a major improvement over the Leica IIf, but having used almost every major, & some minor, 35mm RF systems, IMHO the VF/RF falls short of any M Leica, which remains the gold standard. However, this is not to say that it is unusable.
I have had no problems w/the "fuzzy"-edged RF patch (which the S3 2000 shares w/all the Nikon RFs). It's not as nice as a Leica M, but it works fine in actual use as it did back in the '50s. I don't think it's even necessary to install the contrast-increasing gels like Jon & some others have done. Personally, I would rather have a brighter VF; installing the gel makes the S3 more like the S2 or a Contax, i.e., the RF patch is more visible, but it's like you're shooting through sunglasses. As far as reliability, I don't how many people have actually put any of the reproduction Nikons through hard use like the old days (my S3 2000 has gone through about 50 rolls over 4 years without a problem), but the original designs were legendarily durable & the workmanship on the repros seems to be consistent w/the originals (I had an S2 & still have some original SPs). The slow shutter speeds on my SP 2005, a later reproduction, seem to be getting stuck on "B" in cold weather, but that's the only glitch I've experienced.
In general, the Nikon RFs are easier to transition to if you're coming from using Zeiss Ikon Contax RF equipment (my 1st RF system) or if you have some familiarity w/the original Nikon F SLRs, otherwise, the main similarity w/modern Nikons is the "reverse" manual focus direction (the only legacy of the Contax RF system that still survives to the present day). The "unergonomic" shutter release position noted by pkreyenhop shouldn't be a problem for anyone accustomed to a "Barnack"-style screw-mount Leica body like your IIf (I believe Nikon finally moved the shutter release w/the F2).
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Cool, I contacted the seller. What about the availability of the CV lens in S mount ? Is it still possible to get the 35mm ? I see that CQ have it sold out.
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TWoK
Well-known
My first Nikon RF was an S3 Limited Black. I've since picked up an SP Limited and a few lenses. I love these cameras like no others. Not having parallax correction has made no difference for my S3 shooting lenses 50mm or shorter. I don't have anything longer.
VinceC
Veteran
The interesting thing about the S3 finder is that the etched parallax pointers show you that parallax is really not a big issue except for longer telephotos.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I am a M-user from long time back (50+ years!) - but the Nikon system was always something I was curious about. In the early 90's I got a S/S2 kit (35/50/85/105) and played around with it. Got rid of it after a while - but missed it and about 10 years ago I started to assemble what I though would be a nice working kit. This includes two of the Millennium S3's (one black/one chrome) as well as S's,S2's,SP's and S4's (Beware of Nikons - they are worse than Leica M's for hoarding!).
The Millennium S3's are very good, the parallax is not a problem for me as I strictly shoot bl/w and I tend to crop in the darkroom rather than in the camera. The finders are fine, the patch is less defined than the M one - but not fuzzy enough to give you problem. The S3 finder is a bit busy will 35/50/105 frames showing at the same time. However, nothing you cant get used to! Jon's "blue filter" correction helps quite a bit too - and is easy to do.
The lenses are really good. The 50f1.4 from the 50's can still hold its own today. The 105 is unsurpassed and even the 35f2.5 is as good as any of Leica's offerings from the same era. The 35f1.8 is sharp, nice smooth contrast - but a bit expensive.
I have found less problems with "old" Nikon Rf's than with old M's. The rangefinder rarely goes out of whack - and when it does, it is easy to fix. The shutters are very reliable - occasionally you will get a body that "caps" at 1/1000 or 1/500 - but that is not a big deal to adjust.
The long focus throw takes a while to get used to - but it allows you pin-point focus!
A major benefit is that a basic kit (a S3, a 35/50/105) can be put together for less than a M6 and a 35f2!!
21/25/28's are available as Nikkors - but tend to be expensive (rarer than the "standard" kit) - but VC alternatives are more modestly priced ( and better performers).
Beware of Nikon Rf's though - they are habit forming and you suddenly will find yourself with a lot of them!
The "opposite" focussing is not a problem - as long as you don't try to use M's and Nikon's at the same time!
The Millennium 50f1.4 is one of the best 50 Rf lenses you can find ( IMO there are three lenses that represent the apex of 50mm lens design today - The Leica 50mm f1.4 Asph, the Millenniium Nikkor 50f1.4 and the Heliar 50mm f3.5). This said, you could start with a "stock" 50's 50f1.4 and most likely not miss the Millennium for quite some time. It is better to get a start on the kit than wait for the "perfect" deal anyway.
The Millennium S3's are very good, the parallax is not a problem for me as I strictly shoot bl/w and I tend to crop in the darkroom rather than in the camera. The finders are fine, the patch is less defined than the M one - but not fuzzy enough to give you problem. The S3 finder is a bit busy will 35/50/105 frames showing at the same time. However, nothing you cant get used to! Jon's "blue filter" correction helps quite a bit too - and is easy to do.
The lenses are really good. The 50f1.4 from the 50's can still hold its own today. The 105 is unsurpassed and even the 35f2.5 is as good as any of Leica's offerings from the same era. The 35f1.8 is sharp, nice smooth contrast - but a bit expensive.
I have found less problems with "old" Nikon Rf's than with old M's. The rangefinder rarely goes out of whack - and when it does, it is easy to fix. The shutters are very reliable - occasionally you will get a body that "caps" at 1/1000 or 1/500 - but that is not a big deal to adjust.
The long focus throw takes a while to get used to - but it allows you pin-point focus!
A major benefit is that a basic kit (a S3, a 35/50/105) can be put together for less than a M6 and a 35f2!!
21/25/28's are available as Nikkors - but tend to be expensive (rarer than the "standard" kit) - but VC alternatives are more modestly priced ( and better performers).
Beware of Nikon Rf's though - they are habit forming and you suddenly will find yourself with a lot of them!
The "opposite" focussing is not a problem - as long as you don't try to use M's and Nikon's at the same time!
The Millennium 50f1.4 is one of the best 50 Rf lenses you can find ( IMO there are three lenses that represent the apex of 50mm lens design today - The Leica 50mm f1.4 Asph, the Millenniium Nikkor 50f1.4 and the Heliar 50mm f3.5). This said, you could start with a "stock" 50's 50f1.4 and most likely not miss the Millennium for quite some time. It is better to get a start on the kit than wait for the "perfect" deal anyway.
barnwulf
Well-known
I have a vintage S3 and a Limited Edition 2000 and a Limited Edition Black. I love using these cameras. I got the vintage model first and my first look into the viewfinder was a bit of a surprise, being used to my M4 and M6 Leica, but I started shooting with it right away and found that I got very comfortable with it quickly. For me, the focusing wheel made sense and was a natural thing for me right off. I have never felt that the shutter release was in the wrong place. I loved the 1:1 viewfinder. I rarely shoot things that are close up so the no parallax correction is not a problem. The lens rotation is long but after I shot with the camera for a week or two it felt just fine to me. I love my 2000 Edition and will never part with it. I bought the full complement of CV SC lenses from CameraQuest and picked up another nice Nikkor 35/2.5 lens off of Ebay. I have the original Nikkor 50/1.4 lens that came with my vintage S3. Very happy with the S3. Jim
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barnwulf
Well-known
I just checked the classifieds and jonmanjiro has a really nice S3 2000 listed for a great price. It been used but it looks great. Jim
dave lackey
Veteran
Hmmm...well, I can heartily recommend an S3 2000. I loved mine. Probably would still have it if I had not lost my job two and a half years ago (and still am unemployed).
The only problem I had was related to my inexperience with the viewfinder and the fast lens. Wide open I got either great images or terrible, out of focus images. Above 2.8, perfect. My eyesight and the focus patch just didn't bond.
Having used the M3 now for over 2 years, I have gotten better with the exquisite M3 VF and fast lenses. Good enough now that I would like to try the S3 2000 again, but, then, again, I would much prefer an SP!
Or both.
The only problem I had was related to my inexperience with the viewfinder and the fast lens. Wide open I got either great images or terrible, out of focus images. Above 2.8, perfect. My eyesight and the focus patch just didn't bond.
Having used the M3 now for over 2 years, I have gotten better with the exquisite M3 VF and fast lenses. Good enough now that I would like to try the S3 2000 again, but, then, again, I would much prefer an SP!
barnwulf
Well-known
Originally posted by jonmanjiro
I am not surprised Jon. Jim
That S3 2000 sold within an hour or two of listing it, Jim!
I am not surprised Jon. Jim
barnwulf
Well-known
1 day later than my above post. Today I took out my Leica M4 and my Nikon S3. One had color film in the Leica and the other black and white. I tried to switch off and found that to be more awkward than expected. I usually use my Leica for 3 to 4 weeks and then switch to the S3 for 3 to 4 weeks. That works great for me but using both on the same shooting outing today was a struggle. They are just too different. I love shooting with the S3 but I think the Leica is a little easier to use. Jim
aoresteen
Well-known
1 day later than my above post. Today I took out my Leica M4 and my Nikon S3. One had color film in the Leica and the other black and white. I tried to switch off and found that to be more awkward than expected. I usually use my Leica for 3 to 4 weeks and then switch to the S3 for 3 to 4 weeks. That works great for me but using both on the same shooting outing today was a struggle. They are just too different. I love shooting with the S3 but I think the Leica is a little easier to use. Jim
In Feb I went to San Juan for a short vacation. I took my Rollei 4x4 127 TLR, a Pentax SL with the 105mm, and my Contax IIa with the CV 25mm SC. All loaded with B&W film & yellow filters.
All were very different to use and I had a blast switching from SLT, RF, and TLR cameras. The first day was the worst but by day 2, it was very easy to switch back & forth.
tagheuer
Member
I have a vintage S3 and a Limited Edition 2000 and a Limited Edition Black. I love using these cameras.
I am looking to get a S3-2000 set. I like the black version, but the price is much higher.
My questions:
1. Beside the casing color, does the black version have different internal components compare to the chrome/silver version? (winding mechanism, viewfinder, gears, etc)
2. Does the black version smoother to operate than the chrome version?
3. Both kit are supplied with black 50mm f1.4. Are they identical lens? (no special coating, etc)
Any thought of getting a chrome set and send the body for black repainting to Shintaro ? Pro / cons ?
Thanks in advance for all your comments / concerns.
VinceC
Veteran
I'm pretty sure there's no mechanical difference between the black and chrome S3-2000s. If I'm not mistaken, they took unsold stock of chrome cameras and used them to create a batch of black cameras, which succeeded in clearing out the inventory.
aoresteen
Well-known
I am looking to get a S3-2000 set. I like the black version, but the price is much higher.
My questions:
1. Beside the casing color, does the black version have different internal components compare to the chrome/silver version? (winding mechanism, viewfinder, gears, etc)
2. Does the black version smoother to operate than the chrome version?
3. Both kit are supplied with black 50mm f1.4. Are they identical lens? (no special coating, etc)
Any thought of getting a chrome set and send the body for black repainting to Shintaro ? Pro / cons ?
Thanks in advance for all your comments / concerns.
They are exactly the same - except for the paint. When they did the SP 5 years later they made it ONLY in black. They sell better.
AusDLK
Famous Photographer
I am selling my two M7s so I can concentrate on using a IIIf and S3 2000 when using film. These later two cameras are so much fun to use and get me lots of attention from camera lovers (and others) that I encounter on my walks.
Further on this point, the M7 and M9 are so similar in use that I no longer see any reason to own an M7. The M9 is the perfect digital for me and the "retro" IIIf and S3 are the perfect film cameras.
Further on this point, the M7 and M9 are so similar in use that I no longer see any reason to own an M7. The M9 is the perfect digital for me and the "retro" IIIf and S3 are the perfect film cameras.
_goodtimez
Well-known
I'm a fequent Leica user and I just bought an old S2. I love this little camera.
The focusing in opposite direction from the Leica is not a problem to me at all; neither is the RF patch, I find it quite accurate.
Tomorrow, I will be driving off towards a place where I'm going to get a brand new S3 kit with a 50mm f1.4
The focusing in opposite direction from the Leica is not a problem to me at all; neither is the RF patch, I find it quite accurate.
Tomorrow, I will be driving off towards a place where I'm going to get a brand new S3 kit with a 50mm f1.4
James24
Well-known
Tomorrow, I will be driving off towards a place where I'm going to get a brand new S3 kit with a 50mm f1.4![]()
Welcome to the club! You just need a few more lenses. And maybe an SP. And.....
VinceC
Veteran
My chrome S3 2000, SN# 2066xx, is the smoothest camera I've ever operated, with my F2 a close second.
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Tom A
RFF Sponsor
My black S3 Millennium is the smoothest camera I own, including cameras like Leica MP, M2's etc. The release is barely audible and the shutter just "whispers" along. The chrome S3 Millennium squeked like a cat in heat -until I put some grease on the helicoil. My other two S3's (a beater chrome is quiet enough) and the S3 Olympic is smooth, but the shutter is louder than the others.
Usually takes some 30-50 rolls of film to smooth out any camera, based on my experience.
Usually takes some 30-50 rolls of film to smooth out any camera, based on my experience.
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