+1
But for some optical design improvement brought up by the Ai-S version, I will always favor the Ai over the Ai-S because of a better build quality. The Ai have all-metal innards with even bronze components inside some models while the Ai-S have polycarbonate innards focusing tubes in which some white metal linear sliders take place, and light alloy focusing helicals with some average damping.
As a result I've often seen focusing wobble and decentering of the whole optical unit in some of my new Ai-S lenses while this doesn't appear on their Ai counterparts until the damping grease has fully dried up...
Last year in Tuscany I used my Ai-S 28/2.8 and on each shot, I could feel the optical unit move inside the lens barrel when the D700 shutter was fired. As a result I got some motion blur on some landscapes shots while focusing at infinity... I fixed the lens once back home ; this required a total teardown and cleaning of the double focusing helix, new damping grease, and adjustment of the focusing tube sliders. Yet - I have a 1977 28/2.8 Ai which offers a fabulous damping feeling, with no need to service it whatsoever, and its optical results have nothing to envy to the Ai-S version (of course it's not CRC corrected and can't focus as close). I recently picked up a 28/2 and it's an Ai ; I disdained the Ai-S version (identical optically) and did it well. Man, what a lens.
Both my 35/2 Ai-S and 105/2.5 Ai-S suffer from the same problem as the 28/2.8 Ai-S yet I haven't tackled them. Instead I now use a Nikkor-O 35/2 and a K 85/1.8 which was Ai factory converted. Both feel fabulous, focusing damping wise. I once bought a 20/2.8 Ai-S which was even worse in that respect (I replaced it with a 20/3.5 Ai which is a better lens with less distorsion anyway).
Of course, some of the best MF Nikkors exist in Ai-S version only (55/2.8 Micro, 180/2.8 ED...), so you don't have the possibility to pick the Ai version of that lens, because it doesn't exist.