Tigersight
Light makes right.
Hi everybody. I have a Olympus Trip 35 (fixed lens but not technically a rangefinder) and it has had all the foam light seal material stipped out cleanly from the filmdoor . There is absolutely none left and it's clean as a whistle. I really wanted to use the camera this weekend and test it out but, not having any light seals, was a bit leery about whether I'd ruin a roll of film or not. Also I live in SoCal and it's very bright and sunny here increasing the liklihood of a light leak.
I looked at the door and camera body and it has a kind of "tongue in groove" fit. This caused me to think that maybe, just maybe, I could get away with it. I used a roll of Fuji color Press 400 and shot the whole thing. I just got the proof sheet back today and there is not the slightest hint of any light leak at all. The pictures were absolutley perfect. For those who just hate the darned foam and all the mess they cause as well as the attendant work involved in replacing them I'd say that maybe it would be worth a test of your camera on a bright sunny day to see if you can just go seal-less. I'm only doing this, however, until I can find a seal kit for an Olympus Trip 35, which is no easy chore, because I think that, regarding moisture, seals are a good idea.
Let me know about your experiences with light leaks, seals vs. no seals etc. I'd like to know if this is just a strange fluke or if other people have also done this.
I looked at the door and camera body and it has a kind of "tongue in groove" fit. This caused me to think that maybe, just maybe, I could get away with it. I used a roll of Fuji color Press 400 and shot the whole thing. I just got the proof sheet back today and there is not the slightest hint of any light leak at all. The pictures were absolutley perfect. For those who just hate the darned foam and all the mess they cause as well as the attendant work involved in replacing them I'd say that maybe it would be worth a test of your camera on a bright sunny day to see if you can just go seal-less. I'm only doing this, however, until I can find a seal kit for an Olympus Trip 35, which is no easy chore, because I think that, regarding moisture, seals are a good idea.
Let me know about your experiences with light leaks, seals vs. no seals etc. I'd like to know if this is just a strange fluke or if other people have also done this.
daaris
Established
I agree, you are lucky. I have just replaced seals in three of my cameras, the seals weren't even gone completely and I was getting leaks. I had greenish verticle lines through most of my photos taken on these leaky cameras, now it's all gone! It's not to rough of a job replacing them though, good luck.
Last edited:
Revolucion Artistico
Established
I use this felt stuff they have at craft stores that has an adhesive on the back for light seals. Just cut it into strips (in comes in approx. 8x10 sheets) and press into place firmly. It stays in place just fine, seals well, and fits all cameras. Oh yeah and its cheap.
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Sorry. My personal experience: Does not work with Canon Ae-1, Nikkormat, & Canonet. Don't waste film if the light seals are worn away.
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
A question has arisen reference the Minolta Hi-matic 7s and foam seal. Does anyone know if this camera originally had a soft foam seal?
Eugen Mezei
Well-known
My experience so far:
A. Works with deteriorated lightseals, perhaps not wort bothering (ofcourse the first roll will be decisive):
- Minolta Hi-Matic F
- Yashica Electro 35 GTN
- M42 Cosina SLRs (the back portrudes sufficiently into the body block)
On most cameras the back portrude fast enough into the body when shut that it blocks light without seal anyway.
B. Got fogging:
- Praktica PLC-3:
The L-series Prakticas have an U-shaped (with a large base of the U) piece of foam glued at the hinge of the back. Fogging is light and only in bright sun, maybe the use of the everready case will be of help.
- Fujica AX-x:
The AX series Fujicas (and their Porst relabeled variants) have a peephole where you can see the film you are using. When the foam around this is incomplete you will get severe fogging. Replace the foam or tape over the entire window as a rapid solution.
Eugen
A. Works with deteriorated lightseals, perhaps not wort bothering (ofcourse the first roll will be decisive):
- Minolta Hi-Matic F
- Yashica Electro 35 GTN
- M42 Cosina SLRs (the back portrudes sufficiently into the body block)
On most cameras the back portrude fast enough into the body when shut that it blocks light without seal anyway.
B. Got fogging:
- Praktica PLC-3:
The L-series Prakticas have an U-shaped (with a large base of the U) piece of foam glued at the hinge of the back. Fogging is light and only in bright sun, maybe the use of the everready case will be of help.
- Fujica AX-x:
The AX series Fujicas (and their Porst relabeled variants) have a peephole where you can see the film you are using. When the foam around this is incomplete you will get severe fogging. Replace the foam or tape over the entire window as a rapid solution.
Eugen
oftheherd
Veteran
Well, it worked for you so I don't guess you were lucky, it is just that particular camera will keep out light without it. At least as long as all fits well.
Before everyone jumps all over me, check out how may old cameras didn't use any foam strips or other light preventing measures, other than a good fit, and perhaps the "tongue and groove" mentioned by the OP. I have old cameras like that. They don't leak either.
That said, if the manufacturer felt a light strip was best, I might be inclined to agree with them and put them in. It might be they are also necessary to maintain the fit of the back so leaks don't later develop.
Before everyone jumps all over me, check out how may old cameras didn't use any foam strips or other light preventing measures, other than a good fit, and perhaps the "tongue and groove" mentioned by the OP. I have old cameras like that. They don't leak either.
That said, if the manufacturer felt a light strip was best, I might be inclined to agree with them and put them in. It might be they are also necessary to maintain the fit of the back so leaks don't later develop.
bsdunek
Old Guy with a Corgi
I know my GSN leaks like crazy if the seals aren't in good shape. Replacing seals isn't difficult - just takes a little paitence.
Get your material here: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=RES
Lots of other good stuff for keeping your cameras working too. One of my favorite suppliers!
Get your material here: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=RES
Lots of other good stuff for keeping your cameras working too. One of my favorite suppliers!
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Judging by the gunk that came out of mine when I changed seals in it, yes it did. It has neoprene seals now though.
Anno
Member
where does one get the neoprene seal materials? I am planning to replace light seals in a number of old cameras and would appreciate the source.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Black knitting yarn works great. Glue it in with a wee little bit of Elmers applied with a toothpick. And yes, "light seals" are a curse of recent origin. It reminds me of the stories of used car dealers putting sawdust in a transmission so you wouldn't hear the chattering of worn out gears.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
There is a guy who goes by the user name of "interslice" on ebay and he sells light seal kits. His real name is Jon Goodman, and he makes the absolute best light seals money can buy. In spite of this, his kits are inexpensive. Each kit contains enough materials to reseal at least half-a-dozen cameras. By cutting my own strips out of the materials in one of his small kits, I got enough for 12 out of my first one. He uses much better materials even than what comes in new cameras and I routinely change whatever is in the ones I get with his stuff. If the camera companies used his materials you'd probably only have to change seals once every 50 years or so, if then. The seal strips in his latest kits are made of what looks like some kind of plastic and they are even more durable than the neoprene in the old ones. http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Truth-About...ryZ30038QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
BTMarcais
Well-known
Another strong recommendation for Jon Goodman / interslice. Great quality, inexpensive, and he even has detailed instructions with photos of the steps (for different camera models no less!) if you haven't done this before.
Anno
Member
Guys, thanks. I got light seals materials from Jon/Interslice. it took a while to clean up the gooey stuff. The results may not be professional looking. It is quite rewarding though.
Gary E
Well-known
Yes it does. I stripped my grooves clean and use it without any seals. Several rolls and only once I thought it may have been a light leek; seemed more of a flare issue due to use of an inexpensive non multicoated UV filter; though I was at a beach house in bright sunlight. Other times were under different conditions which produced fine chromes.
I have also used a Nikon F2 without foam seals without any issues. Some bodies seemed to have been designed to work without them. The R8/9 doesn't have any to begin with.
