FallisPhoto
Veteran
I've only ever heard that toothpaste is good for removing love bites from your neck!
Huh? How is rubbing an abrasive on your skin going to remove a suck mark?
I've only ever heard that toothpaste is good for removing love bites from your neck!
Huh? How is rubbing an abrasive on your skin going to remove a suck mark?
i think its a mixture of steps two and three on this page..the picture is of me demonstrating appling the hicky of course, to hmmm i think its my monday night sheila ...😉 what you dont believe me! ...well it might be my tuesday night sheila..i get them mixed up eh
http://www.howtodothings.com/family-relationships/how-to-remove-a-hickey
The first I learned to use toothpaste was while in the US Army, to remove scratches from watch crystals. The chalk in toothpaste would do that surprisingly well. But I would agree I would be reluctant to use it on a precision ground lens. How did it work Borghesia?
I got the suggestion from Tomosy's Leica repair book. He claims that a lens surface with no coating is preferable to one with half of the coating gone. I have no idea if that's right or not. I bought a Yashica-Mat (right price, dim shop & in a hurry) that proved to have fungus on the first surface of the second element. It cleaned up nice enough, and the glass was unharmed, but the fungus had destroyed some of the coating. It shot just fine, but it was a bit unsightly. Anyhow, I removed the rest of the coating working carefully with toothpaste (diluted in isopropyl alcohol) and q-tips--it took several hours. The lens is now crystal clear, and you could never tell it has been worked on by looking at the assembled lens. I suppose contrast should be slightly lower, but it shoots just like before--and that's tack sharp!
(I do suppose it could be somewhat of a gamble as to what specific kind of optical glass that pariticular element is made of--I wouldn't try it on the first element of a scratch prone collapsible Summicron or something like that...)
I got the suggestion from Tomosy's Leica repair book. He claims that a lens surface with no coating is preferable to one with half of the coating gone. I have no idea if that's right or not. I bought a Yashica-Mat (right price, dim shop & in a hurry) that proved to have fungus on the first surface of the second element. It cleaned up nice enough, and the glass was unharmed, but the fungus had destroyed some of the coating. It shot just fine, but it was a bit unsightly. Anyhow, I removed the rest of the coating working carefully with toothpaste (diluted in isopropyl alcohol) and q-tips--it took several hours. The lens is now crystal clear, and you could never tell it has been worked on by looking at the assembled lens. I suppose contrast should be slightly lower, but it shoots just like before--and that's tack sharp!
(I do suppose it could be somewhat of a gamble as to what specific kind of optical glass that pariticular element is made of--I wouldn't try it on the first element of a scratch prone collapsible Summicron or something like that...)
i would agree Limpovit that i definitly wouldnt try it on Summircon or anything of that ilk..but in fact personaly i wouldnt do it to any lens unless it was something i just didnt vaule at all, although that may sound a bit harsh i simply mean that it may be a cheap common camera or lens and i would know that basically i am doing harm to the lens.
some time back i looked into having a xenon repolished profesionaly, it is not a cheap option and in most cases unless the lens is of reasonable vaule its just not economical to do so (cheaper to simply buy one in good condition). but as they told me they dont simply polish by hand they use a form (cant think of the right word but a shape) that is calibrated to the original lens. they advised that to polish by hand simply destroys the original formular and shape of the lens, it will still work more than likely and will look good to the eye but it is no longer the correct shape.
final polishing is a progressive procedure using progressivly finer oxides to get within a million of an inch (i think i have heard final lens polshing refered to as an art as well). for instance i have polished various surfaces of granite, marble and gem stones such as opals etc and the oxides used for that are much finer than toothpaste. if i was to use toothpaste near the end it would undo the work/smoothness i already reached with oxides. i also understand that aparently ziess used to have large vats below there factory with very pure water from which they used to (i dont know if they still do) collect oxide for the final polishing. apparently looking under a microscope at a lens repolished by someone compared to a zies lens at the factory is like comparing a rough surface of a country road to a sheet of glass.
i fully understand why you polished your lens in this way-its a usable camera and lens for you now and by your tesimony is very sharp now. Anyone can do anything they like to their own lens. however what concerns me is if people get the impresession that polishing a lens with toothpaste is an acceptable procedure and fix...there are enough problems with buying cameras (particularly on ebay) without the added problem of people possibly choosing to buff up lens to look good (to the eye only) for resale purposes and to remove those cleaning marks. i would hope but wouldnt expect the way things are nowadays that if someone did repolish a lens they would disclose that before resale. i am sure people have heard it before but in most cases cleaning marks ect are best left alone and the lens still performs well---better than if it was to be polished -especially with toothpatse IMO
Hi oftheherd, no i am sure if it was MacArthur i would of remembered his name!...i thought he was a shadow god :angel: haha ..at least it seems his reputation and ego was lol
i'll see if i can can dig up what i had on it
EDIT; indeed oftheherd it looks as if my memory was a bit off as it was the Supreme Commander of the Allied Powers that signed off on the decree 1535 (whom could only of been the mighty Douglas MacArthur-i just didnt have his name written down it seems) that said all items exported from Japan after 9 september 1947 be marked MIOJ and he would have been still in charge in 1949 Decmber 5 when decree 2061 was issued recinding the previous requirement of decree 1535. some people say that it went on until 1951, probably because for some reason there were still some cameras (and other items) realeased with the mark MIOJ up until early 1951 but my notes say that decree 2061 was issued in Dec 1949
U.S. Coast Guard here. Toothpaste for polishing plastic and Brasso for glass. The viewfinder lenses on old box cameras are not precision ground and they pretty much just tell you what the camera is pointed at. Same thing with the small pyramidal viewfinders on folding cameras. They tend to yellow and to get cloudy. Polishing them with toothpaste (or Brasso, if they are glass), will brighten them up a LOT. You never realize how dull those things are until you do that. This camera has received (among other things) the toothpaste treatment:
All the visible lenses were polished with toothpaste, are crystal clear and look like new. They are so bright and clear that they practially glow in the dark. The meniscus taking lens in the center (behind that hole) just got a lot of naptha, some vinegar, and some cotton swabs though. It wasn't hugely sharp even new and literally grinding the surface off of the lens wouldn't improve things. I had thought the viewfinder lenses were clean before doing this to it, and I guess that, technically, they were. I hadn't realized how dull 60+ year old plastic can get though, until I did this. The viewfinder lens on top had a scratch in it and I remembered the old watch crystal trick.
Been out of touch a couple of days. Interesting that if would have gone on that long then suddenly stopped while Mac was still Supreme Commander and we were still an occupying power.
There used to be a thread on the Classic Camera Repair Forum that was started by some guy who "polished" all his lenses with Flitz metal polish. He was especially proud of the way it cut through that "mottled gunk that looks like an oil slick" on the lenses of antique cameras. When it was carefully explained to him that he had removed the natural lens coating of bloomed lenses, and thereby had also removed about 99 percent of their value, he became somewhat upset.
it is probably interesting to add that the stratergies to rebuild Japan's and Germany's industry so that they could be strong (not military but economically) again was in part due to the lesson learnt after the great war....without going too deep into politics and facisiam it was understood one of the reasons Germany went down the path they did was because they were reduced (tried to it seems) by the winning powers to virtually a farming community (silly to try to a community that has the engerneering and inteligence that they had) with heavy repayments to the allied powers for losing the war. these severe restrictions caused an understandable bitterness among the Germans, as they, as a country endured great hardships as a result, and led to pure evil of you know who comming to power. Whilst things wernt perfect afterwards and in hindsight could of been done better it seems there were some smart people in charge after the second war...after all there would have been a lot of prejeduce and hate going around back then
As I recall, cameras made for a while in Germany were labled as being made in whatever occupied zone they were made. Probably other goods as well. I always wondered what the exact reason was.
History can be interesting.
It's a front cell focusing lens that came in two models... the earlier Hesper Anastigmat, and the later tessar style 4 element Neo Hesper.
"The lens is a four-element Tessar-type coated Hesper 75mm
f:3.5. (Many people seem to believe that the Hesper has three
elements and the later Neo-Hesper four, but the advertisements
clearly state otherwise.) " [Camerapedia]
Both lenses are 4-element tessar types. See:
http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Zenobia
interesting....yep it is that, oftheherd
you would no doubt of heard the term 'Monte' en Sarre' that would get a leica collector all overexposed and out of focus if found on a IIIa 😉 .assembled or made in the French occupied German zone of Saarland of course...same thing ..it was to avoid the french paying the high import taxes
couldn't agree more...whilst a crystal clear lens looks great they are better left alone, with their coating, whether deminished from new or natually formed afterwards as some vintage lenses are. whilst somewhat unsightly they work better