aad
Not so new now.
I just use my SLR...
Krosya
Konicaze
I was perusing older threads and came across this one.
I did it. I only needed to remove the rear of the lens leaving the glass module intact.
As a result of this mod I sold my ZM 50/2 Planar which became somewhat redundant in my kit. The 50/1.5 Nokton gets the job done right down to 0.7m.
Great to hear someone put this to a good use too!
I agree , this can be done with just the back of the lens off. However, if I had to do it again, I'd do it same as I originally posted, as that way you get to secure other parts of the lens to prevent wobbles, lose barrels, etc. Just turn this great lens into a much better user!
I just use my SLR...
I have no idea what this comment has to do with this thread. If you use SLR - what does that have to do with RF? Or do you use CV Nokton 50/1.5 on your SLR? And it makes it focus closer? I dont really get this. Many RF lenses close down to 0.7m and I posted to mod to make a very fine lens do the same. I think it would make it more useful for an RF user. What does using SLR have to do with this - no idea.
efix
RF user by conviction
The Nokton 50/1.5 is my absolute favourite lens - it would be great if someone would offer the mod as a service, as I'd be afraid of damaging the lens if I do it myself ... but it would certainly be nice to be able to focus down to .7m without sacrificing infinity focus.
Erik Gunst Lund
Kind regards Erik
Thanks for the tip with the modification!!!
I have recently bought a used Nokton 50mm 1.5 for my M8u.
The lens performance is fantastic for the money; Sharp, contrast, nice tones and Bokeh.
It is aparently a very nice modern design; Aspherical, coatings, floating front lens group, it is really well made all in all.
Some of the mechanical build quality is so so, as can be seen above, the focus ring transfer the rotation via a thin long T-shaped tap, so care should be taken when; mounting the LTM - M-Mount ring and when mounting the lens use only the slim ring with the aperture scale as 'grip' and when mounting filters use the front part of the lens.
Minimum focus is now modified to 0.7m as stated above, removing additional 16mm of the focus cut out does it, I used a Dremel.
This is possible due to the extra room made by the design to allow room for the fine tuning infinity adjustment of each lens, same as some MF Nikkor wide angle lenses.
My sample had a little back focus as it was stopped down, but after a careful adjustment of the lens; the build in adjustment ring under the mount and the rear shims, at infinity and close up I have reached a compromise where f/2 to f/2.8 is the sweet spot, f/4 and f/5.6 is fully acceptable and f/1.5 now has a slight front focus of about 10-15mm at 0.7m
Infinity is spot on using the night lights in Malmö, Sweden as a target, they are about 16 km away from Copenhagen...
The aperture ring had very light aperture settings so was easily knocked out of position, so i used a round needle file to make them more distinct and I added a click-stop between f/1.5 and f/2.0.
The lens is now a pleasure to shoot on the M8u, very highly recommended! Especially with the DIY modifications!
I have recently bought a used Nokton 50mm 1.5 for my M8u.
The lens performance is fantastic for the money; Sharp, contrast, nice tones and Bokeh.
It is aparently a very nice modern design; Aspherical, coatings, floating front lens group, it is really well made all in all.
Some of the mechanical build quality is so so, as can be seen above, the focus ring transfer the rotation via a thin long T-shaped tap, so care should be taken when; mounting the LTM - M-Mount ring and when mounting the lens use only the slim ring with the aperture scale as 'grip' and when mounting filters use the front part of the lens.
Minimum focus is now modified to 0.7m as stated above, removing additional 16mm of the focus cut out does it, I used a Dremel.
This is possible due to the extra room made by the design to allow room for the fine tuning infinity adjustment of each lens, same as some MF Nikkor wide angle lenses.
My sample had a little back focus as it was stopped down, but after a careful adjustment of the lens; the build in adjustment ring under the mount and the rear shims, at infinity and close up I have reached a compromise where f/2 to f/2.8 is the sweet spot, f/4 and f/5.6 is fully acceptable and f/1.5 now has a slight front focus of about 10-15mm at 0.7m
Infinity is spot on using the night lights in Malmö, Sweden as a target, they are about 16 km away from Copenhagen...
The aperture ring had very light aperture settings so was easily knocked out of position, so i used a round needle file to make them more distinct and I added a click-stop between f/1.5 and f/2.0.
The lens is now a pleasure to shoot on the M8u, very highly recommended! Especially with the DIY modifications!
Last edited:
tonal1
Established
It's very funny. I just did this mod last week, and today I find this:
http://www.cameraquest.com/voigt_5015_nokton_classic.htm
It seems the people at Voigtlander/Cosina have open ears. The new version is going to be great for sure. They've added the .7m focus distance that the first version needed so bad. Build quality looks a lot better as well, and it looks like it's slightly more compact. Bravo!
http://www.cameraquest.com/voigt_5015_nokton_classic.htm
It seems the people at Voigtlander/Cosina have open ears. The new version is going to be great for sure. They've added the .7m focus distance that the first version needed so bad. Build quality looks a lot better as well, and it looks like it's slightly more compact. Bravo!
tonal1
Established
My notes on this modification:
First off, as the OP states, this is NOT easy. I did this with the help of a friend with 30 years experience in lens repair to whom I could ask questions as I went along.
Photographing the process will make it a lot easier to reassemble correctly. Photograph any tick marks you scribe as they may be harder to see when things are apart. The entire thing can be done from the rear, and that will make reassembly MUCH simpler.
First off, as the OP states, this is NOT easy. I did this with the help of a friend with 30 years experience in lens repair to whom I could ask questions as I went along.
Photographing the process will make it a lot easier to reassemble correctly. Photograph any tick marks you scribe as they may be harder to see when things are apart. The entire thing can be done from the rear, and that will make reassembly MUCH simpler.
tonal1
Established
Next level:
Next level:
While the lens was apart, I took the liberty of adding a focusing tab. Now the lens focuses close, and has much improved handling.
This mod allows for slightly closer than .7m focusing... in fact, it's difficult to grind the exact amount off to get to exactly .7m. Good luck with that. My eyeballed grind erred on the close side, and my lens now focuses down to around maybe .65m. This is about as far as I think it's safe to go before you're taking too much off...
Which brings me to: The M6 (and others) actually has a little more travel in the rangefinder, if adjusted. I haven't done this yet, but I believe it will go a touch closer.
Most M3's only focus to 1 meter from the factory, and many can also be modified to focus to .7 meters. Your mileage may vary as to how far your specific body can be adjusted, but the point is that with this lens mod, you may be able to have a Leica M with a normal lens that focuses just a tad closer than you're used to.
Good luck!
Next level:
While the lens was apart, I took the liberty of adding a focusing tab. Now the lens focuses close, and has much improved handling.
This mod allows for slightly closer than .7m focusing... in fact, it's difficult to grind the exact amount off to get to exactly .7m. Good luck with that. My eyeballed grind erred on the close side, and my lens now focuses down to around maybe .65m. This is about as far as I think it's safe to go before you're taking too much off...
Which brings me to: The M6 (and others) actually has a little more travel in the rangefinder, if adjusted. I haven't done this yet, but I believe it will go a touch closer.
Most M3's only focus to 1 meter from the factory, and many can also be modified to focus to .7 meters. Your mileage may vary as to how far your specific body can be adjusted, but the point is that with this lens mod, you may be able to have a Leica M with a normal lens that focuses just a tad closer than you're used to.
Good luck!
tonal1
Established
Missing important step
Missing important step
Deleted...
Missing important step
Deleted...
Classique
Well-known
While the lens was apart, I took the liberty of adding a focusing tab. Now the lens focuses close, and has much improved handling.
This mod allows for slightly closer than .7m focusing... in fact, it's difficult to grind the exact amount off to get to exactly .7m. Good luck with that. My eyeballed grind erred on the close side, and my lens now focuses down to around maybe .65m. This is about as far as I think it's safe to go before you're taking too much off...
Which brings me to: The M6 (and others) actually has a little more travel in the rangefinder, if adjusted. I haven't done this yet, but I believe it will go a touch closer.
Most M3's only focus to 1 meter from the factory, and many can also be modified to focus to .7 meters. Your mileage may vary as to how far your specific body can be adjusted, but the point is that with this lens mod, you may be able to have a Leica M with a normal lens that focuses just a tad closer than you're used to.
Good luck!
Is it much easier to go from the back?
Also, would you mind sharing how you added the focusing tab?
tonal1
Established
Is it much easier to go from the back?
Also, would you mind sharing how you added the focusing tab?![]()
It's a lot easier to understand how the lens works, and therefore how to reassemble, if you only remove as little as possible. Now that I've had it a pert a few times, I can say the lens is much simpler than it appeared while I had it disassembled from both ends.
Focusing tab: I bought a couple of tabs from heavystar on that awful auction site I can't resist. The tab has two little, well, tabs on the bottom of it. First, I slightly relieved the angle of the curve where the tab mounts with a dremel, so that it would accommodate the largish barrel of the Nokton. Then, I bored a couple of small divots in the lens barrel so that those tabs would have a place to rest—this should make the tab much stronger and less likely to loosen up with use. Then, while the barrel was apart, a hole was drilled through the tab straight through the barrel. The hole was then tapped for a small screw which was carefully countersunk into the plastic tab., and the screw end was ground flush with the inside of the lens barrel. Now, it's on there and looks like it came that way. Kind of a hassle, but worthwhile in the end. The lens handles MUCH better now. I really hated the feel of that sort of knurled focus ring.
tonal1
Established
You may need to modify your ltm-M adapter as well...
You may need to modify your ltm-M adapter as well...
The Leitz ltm-M adapter I have does not allow for closer than ~.9m focusing. The adapter is relieved on the side to make way for the cam arm. If you have a body that will focus to .7m or closer, you will also have to modify the adapter to allow for close focus. I suspect some newer adapters will not need modification. The adapters I have are all set to different distances.
I'd recommend just buying the soon to be released VM version!
You may need to modify your ltm-M adapter as well...
The Leitz ltm-M adapter I have does not allow for closer than ~.9m focusing. The adapter is relieved on the side to make way for the cam arm. If you have a body that will focus to .7m or closer, you will also have to modify the adapter to allow for close focus. I suspect some newer adapters will not need modification. The adapters I have are all set to different distances.
I'd recommend just buying the soon to be released VM version!
rcubed
Canadian
Bump from the dead!
Im currently trying to modify my lens and taken the rear mount off, unscrewed the rear element and undid the screws holding the black shim so it's free from the focus barrel
. I cant seem to remove the black shim though, it rotates, but i cant see how it comes out so i can separate the focus barrel from everything else.
See highlighted:
That piece.
any ideas?
Im currently trying to modify my lens and taken the rear mount off, unscrewed the rear element and undid the screws holding the black shim so it's free from the focus barrel
. I cant seem to remove the black shim though, it rotates, but i cant see how it comes out so i can separate the focus barrel from everything else.
See highlighted:

That piece.
any ideas?
dyoc
Newbie
does anyone have images or a link to the VC 35 f1.7 Ultron LTM M39 mod ?
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