Non coded lens and IR/UV filter, What setting?

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chrishayton

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Hi I just recieved my Uv/IR filter for my vc 35mm f1.2. the lens isnt coded so lens detection is set to off.
What setting should it be on?
Bit confused...

Oh btw its a Leica 55mm with step up ring not a B+w filter

Thank you
 
You really should code anything wider then 50mm. If you are proficient in Photoshop etc., you can do away with the cyan vignetting.
 
I am currently using this lens on M8 w/ B+W 486 filter, although I typically convert to black and white. There is, as I suspect you may have discovered, a screw on the mount which makes coding more difficult. I was able to manage with a sharpie, and notice no real difference with or without coding. I had coded it as a 35mm Summilux Asph. The only thing I lose without coding is the focal length readout in the EXIF data, but that's really not a problem, as the signature of this lens is unmistakable between 1.2 and 2.4, which is where I use it. I've left the camera set to "on" for lens coding + IR, so when I change to a coded lens, I don't have to switch settings in the menu.
 
kbg32 said:
You really should code anything wider then 50mm. If you are proficient in Photoshop etc., you can do away with the cyan vignetting.
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Usually 35 mm is not much of a problem. I have some 35 mm lenses I never bothered to code, and I never noticed visible cyan shift. I always leave the coding detection on, except for lenses that go clearly wrong because of a screw in the mount.( for instance an Elmarit 28 will be read as a 90 mm lens)
 
Vic said:
For $6 (shipped to England) you can get the Bo Coder. Bo Lorentzen is great to deal with, and a RFF member. I have it, and it works perfectly.

http://bophoto.typepad.com/bophoto/2009/01/m8-coder-simple-manual-handcoding-of-m-lenses.html

Lens codes:

http://whimster-photography.com/leica_m_lens_codes/index.html

It's a great deal, the best investment in Leica digital that I've made.
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Ill order one of them. looks like it should work well with the notch for lens mount. both my lenses have a screw where the coding should be. Hopefully ill manage to sort it out though
 
jaapv said:
Usually 35 mm is not much of a problem. I have some 35 mm lenses I never bothered to code, and I never noticed visible cyan shift. I always leave the coding detection on, except for lenses that go clearly wrong because of a screw in the mount.( for instance an Elmarit 28 will be read as a 90 mm lens)
Click to expand...

A dab of white paint make the screw invisible to the code-reader. I used automobile touch-up that comes in a little tube with a brush cap. It's a thick paint and bonds well to metal. I used it for the black codes too, even though it's high-gloss it works perfectly in my hand-milled troughs.
 
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