Ok i made a mistake, please help ...

[karlori]

Hello,

It must be beginners luck or something... I shot 4 rolls of Tmax400 the past week and today i shot a roll of what i was thinking was tmax 400 it turned out to be tmax 100...
I never did pushing or pulling when developing at home, so now i have to push the roll to get anything out of it ?

What developing times and temperatures should i be looking at, my current developer on hand is the Efke Fr-16 :bang:

Any help please ? :angel:

 

[Thardy]

Hello,

It must be beginners luck or something... I shot 4 rolls of Tmax400 the past week and today i shot a roll of what i was thinking was tmax 400 it turned out to be tmax 100...
I never did pushing or pulling when developing at home, so now i have to push the roll to get anything out of it ?

What developing times and temperatures should i be looking at, my current developer on hand is the Efke Fr-16 :bang:

Any help please ? :angel:

Try the massive development chart , and go to push processing. If you're uncertain dev a small amount of the film to test before the bulk of the roll.

Good luck.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc

 

[Thardy]

That would be a two stop push, right?

 

[Steve M.]

You know, w/ B&W, I wonder if you'll see much difference one way or the other. But yes, it would be 2 stops.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

yeah. i see development times for iso 400 for the major developers: d76, hc-110 and xtol. it is a 2 stop-push if you exposed at iso 400. pls post some pictures, i am curious to find out about the contrasts.

 

[karlori]

yeah. i see development times for iso 400 for the major developers: d76, hc-110 and xtol. it is a 2 stop-push if you exposed at iso 400. pls post some pictures, i am curious to find out about the contrasts.

As much as i see i could get something out of the roll ... BUT A WARNING DO NOT USE ANY EFKE devs or fixers with kodak tmax films, i have gone trough another roll normally exposed and careful of developing conditions the FIXER leaves a magneta cast on the emulsion itself ! The developing times stated on the dev and on the films are different there is no golden middle i souped the overexposed roll for almost 12 minutes and is still too dark for my liking. Pictures to follow as soon as the negs drie and i get to the lab to scan them... :thumbsdown:

 

[delft]

... the FIXER leaves a magneta cast on the emulsion itself ! ...and is still too dark for my liking. ... :thumbsdown:

This looks like the fixer may have been exhausted. If this is the case, fixing again with fresh fixer might solve the magenta cast. Since fixer is a pretty simple chemical, I doubt that Efke has done somethicg special to their fix that would cause a magenta cast.

Good luck,

Dirk

 

[karlori]

This looks like the fixer may have been exhausted. If this is the case, fixing again with fresh fixer might solve the magenta cast. Since fixer is a pretty simple chemical, I doubt that Efke has done somethicg special to their fix that would cause a magenta cast.

Good luck,

Dirk

Thanks for your suggestion, the fixer is a fresh bottle stored in a cool and dark enviroment, the photog at the local lab told me that its common to get this when using Efke fixer with tmax films be it new or old.
He "repaired" it with some kodak chemical for free and scanned it I will upload the results soon...

 

[karlori]

The Results

The Results


Click on the thumbs for the full size picture. The pp included some cloning where dust was present and some light noise removing on 2-3 pictures present... Guess im ok with the results 😕

 

[oftheherd]

considering the lighting you had, I don't think they look bad at all.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

For future reference, if you want to push process film (due to accidental exposure or willing experimentation) the suggestion is to extend 1.5 times the developing time. Hence, if a certain film exposed at ISO 400 takes 5 minutes in the soup, at ISO 800 it should be 7.5 minutes.

As for the pink coloration... that's been my experience with Kodak films and developers. It ended when I stopped using the Kodak Professional Fixer... and Kodak film. For the few I've souped ever since, I've used Ilford liquid fixer: long shelf life, and you only mix what you need.

In any event, your results are pretty good! Take care!!

PS. On re-reading my post, I'm now unsure whether it's 1.5 times or 2.5 times per stop. Check out the digital truth's Massive development chart. The information is buried there, somewhere...