OK, I'll bite...Starter Kit for developing film?

dave lackey

dave lackey

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Yikes,

Talk about a newbie asking a basic question...😱...

Buying, shooting B+W film, lab processing, lab printing and lab scanning is getting expensive! I watched a You Tube video on film processing and it looks doable!

So, if I just want to process my own B+W film (using Tri-X and T-Max, Ilford, etc)...can someone give me a shopping list so I can process in our guest bathroom? I am not ready to get into printing yet, I can send my negatives out for printing.

Like I said, this is very basic information and I apologize if it has been asked before but I have very little space and very little money but would like to stay with stainless steel, etc. in lieu of plastic.😛

Thanks in advance as usual!
 
Good decision, you'll enjoy it.
Here are my choices.
Using any of the films you mentioned:
Developer - Kodak D-76, I use 1:1 ratio with water.
Fixer - Kodak professional.
These are both powders.

Processing tank and reel. I prefer plastic, others use metal. You'll get an argument here.
If you go plastic I suggest Paterson reels and tank. I have also used Yankee and Freestyle.

The rest you can get in the Dollar store. Measuring pitcher, quart size, clips for drying, a string to hang the film from, scissors to trim the film, can opener to open the film canister.

Pad and pencil for notes (important.)

A timer would be nice but a watch is OK.

I use everything at room temp so I did not need a thermometer

Old towels.

Plastic gallon jugs if you can keep them in a dark place, otherwise get recommended dark bottles.

You can up date and improve on your selections as you see what works best for you.

It's not brain surgery but you have to be careful about dust and use care in handling the chemicals. Also, be consistant and take notes.

Good luck.
 
The essential equipment: A daylight developing tank with film reel(s), a timer of some kind, a thermometer, a few measuring cups or graduated cylinders for mixing your chemicals, and some airtight containers to store your mixed chemicals. You can buy all sorts of darkroom gear at Freestyle or other suppliers. For some of these you can improvise; I use a digital kitchen thermometer (not the same one I cook with) and plastic milk jugs.

You'll need a completely dark room or a film changing bag to load the film onto your reels. I prefer a changing bag. If your guest bathroom can be made light-tight, maybe with the old towel-under-the-door method, then you can get by with that.

For chemicals you'll need developer and fixer at minimum. The fixer can be re-used for a number of rolls before it has to be replaced. Some developers also recommend using a separate stop bath prior to fixing, instead of a plain water rinse. You'll also want a bottle of wetting agent, a very mild detergent for the final rinse that avoids annoying water spots on your negatives.

There are obviously lots of choices for the developer. I started out with Diafine because it's so easy to use (temperature isn't important) and economical (you can re-use it for a long, long time). It gives great results and I still use it often. D-76 (or a generic equivalent) is also a nice choice for starting out because it's so well documented.

You'll find it's pretty easy and takes very little space. I develop all my film in the utility sink in my basement.
 
I've been using a Freestyle Premium 2-roll tank for a month and have to say these are the easiest-loading reels I have ever used.

I have an under-sink water filter and a separate dedicated tap in the kitchen for rinsing - it gets the job done.

I have been settled for a while on Ilford chemistry: Ilfotec DD-X for most films, Ilfosol-S for slow films, Ilford Rapid Fix for fixer. Never had a precipitation problem with the Ilford fixer. None of this stuff is dangerously toxic but nevertheless I am considering trying out the Silvergrain chemistry for its lower toxicity.

Everything goes down the sink except for spent fixer. That goes into a jug stuffed with steel wool to precipitate the silver. Every week I decant the first jug to a second also stuffed with steel wool. Every week the fully silver-depleted contents of the second jug goes into the sink before I fill it from the first jug.
 
Don't buy just yet. Beat the bushes for free darkroom stuff. Craigslist works. Forums like this work. Local classifieds. It's everywhere for the cost of time & gasoline to go get it.

Film: The house brand Premium 125 & 400 films from Freestyle are really Kodak Plus-X and Tri-X and CHEAP! If you find carefully stored out dated (by 1-3 years) B&W film cheap, jump all over it.
Dark room for loading tanks: Closet, bathroom, etc. without windows. Wait until dark.
Stop bath: Water at the same temp. as the devloper.
Film dryer: A coat hanger and clothes pins on the shower rod.
Chemical containers: Amber plastic food grade half gallon bottles that juice or tea or whatever came in. I'm fond of the Arizona Tea variety.
Negative sleeves: Gotta have them.

Enjoy! Have fun! Just do it!
 
For now, I would say that all you need is a roll of cheap film and a reel.

Then close your eyes or put on a blindfold, pop opn the film cannister (with a can opener) and load the roll of film onto the reel.

Then practice, practice, practice. When you can do that with ease, then start buying the other stuff. NONE of them are of any use if you cannot load the roll onto the reel.

If you CANNOT load the film or have a very difficult time doing so, at least you would not have wasted your money with the other stuff....

Good luck!!! 😀
 
i'll second kxl's recommendation: get a tank and reel and practice for a few days first. I originally went with the plastic Paterson, but the lid often leaks during inversion agitation and, frankly, they will not load at all if they are even slightly moist. So, I've switched to the steel with the Hewes reels with the sprocket tabs (NOT the clip) and they are easier and faster to load by far and I do not have to wait for the reels to dry completely before starting the next batch. (They also don't stain like the plastic ones do.) But, really either way works just fine and there's no reason to fret over the decision; just jump in and start swimming, the water is fine!
 
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Let's see what I need:

Loading:

Changing bag
Scissors
Can opener
Paterson system 4 tank
Plastic reel

Processing:

Developer: Either Diafine (powder) or HC110 (syrup)
Plastic compressible bottle(s) for developer (Diafine has two solutions)
Plastic compressible bottle for fixer
Stop bath ( I use plain white vinegar 1+4)
Two measuring cups of 500ml each
Plastic funnel
Lots of water (plain water will do for me, YMWV)
1 drop of washing up liquid for the final rinse

Stirring rod/thermometer
Timer (I use my cell phone)

Drying:

Coat hanger
Clothes peg
A film clip with a lead weight in it

And afterwards sleevs to put your negs in and a scanner.
 
Here's my kit:
filmdevelopingkit.jpg
 
Copying Chris, I find these helpful:
 

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There are certain choices that have to be made before you start out....
Plastic or stainless steel
darkroom or changing bag
D-76 or diafine
boxers or briefs
 
I'm not the biggest fan of the plastic reels...I have a lot of trouble with 120 in them. Every one I've ever used with 120 jammed up and took about 10 minutes to actually get the film loaded onto it right.

I'm getting 35 and 120 stainless reels very soon. I've also been using arista developer and fixer, because it's cheap and what is at school. I also started using water as my stop bath and have seen no changes. 😕
 
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