Okay! You've convinced me!

[mcgrattan]

Diafine is nice and easy to start with, although, for me, it does weird things to the midtones on some films [but not others].

With 35mm, some of my cameras leave the leader out, so those I sometimes trim before I put them in the changing bag, and then just load directly from the cartridge and snip at the end. I find a timer fairly helpful, but I just use the timer function on my mobile phone as it's easy and cheap.

re: agitation, everyone has their own method. The 5 times every 30 seconds method suggested above would be WAY WAY WAY more agitation than I'd ever use with any film or developer. I tend to go with agitating with three or four inversions a minute. I've found diafine sometimes requires a little more agitation than I'd use with other developers to avoid bromide drag.

I squeegee with my fingers dipped in the tank with the rinse/water. I've never had scratches that way. I've had terrible scratches using an actual plastic/rubber squeegee, though.

I just use normal clothes pegs for hanging the film.

Good luck!

 

[dfoo]

I don't want to come off as some sort of authority on developing film, because I'm not. However, although it might be WAY WAY WAY more agitation that you'd ever use, 5-7 inversions in 5 seconds is Kodak's recommendation each 30s, and that's what I've used for most of the time I've been developing film. I did use at one point 5 each 60s for a short while, but I found the negatives lacked contrast.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

 

[fixbones]

DRabbit,

I am a beginner myself and intend to develop my own film sometime in the future. This thread is GOLD!!!
Can i ask what do u intend to do with the processed film? Do you have a scanner of some sort?

Ferraby

 

[DRabbit]

Thanks everyone... you have all been so helpful. If Larky hadn't said what he said in my other thread about processing, I would never have considered all this, so thanks to him too!

I've ordered my supplies! I wish I had a reel to practice with NOW so I could be ready when it all gets here. I may have to drive out to a camera store I know up about 30 minutes away to see if they've got one 😉

Steve - I think the tank I got is the smallest and only holds one reel. The description says it takes a single 35mm reel.

Ferraby - I'm going to be scanning my processed film. I saw a blog recently - http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/20/processing-black-and-white-film-for-scanning-diafine-and-tx/ - that talks about Diafine and TX film pretty extensively, especially in regards to scanning. Not everyone here might agree with everything he says, but I found the info helpful (and even more encouraging). He also happens to say that TX is usable with an EI of 400-1250/1600 when using Diafine, which will be fun to experiment with.

I bought a dedicated negative scanner. I ended up with the Plustek 7300 as it seemed a good balance of features, quality and price for me. I've seen some really nice results from it and it should give me the ability to get a good scan at a decent resolution. Unfortuantely, I had started off buying the 7200 not realizing it wasn't Mac-compatible, so I had to return it and buy the 7300.

 

[dazedgonebye]

It's a dangerous road you travel.
I started with a tank that would hold 2-35mm rolls or 1-120 roll. Then it became frustrating to only be able to develop 1-120 roll at a time, so I got a tank that could handle 2-120 rolls. Then I got a tank that could handle 12 4x5 sheets, but I only had one spool and it got frustrating to only be able to develop 6 4x5 sheets at a time. Now I've got a second spool for that tank too.
I've got a tank in the garage that can be used for developing 1 8x10 print. I'm staying the hell away from that thing.

 

[Roger Hicks]

You may find some of the following useful:

http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how 35mm tank.html

http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how process 35-120.html

And although I hate to contradict a fellow RFF member, with film, wash aid is a complete waste of time, money and resources. You can wash film to ANSI archival standards in 3 changes of water, as long as you don't use hardening fixer. The second link goes into more detail.

Tashi delek,

Roger

 

[David R Munson]

Caveat: it's still under construction, I'm not done writing it yet, and I haven't done the photographs for it yet, but I am working on what will eventually be a fully illustrated tutorial on basic b&w processing here:

http://www.davidrmunson.com/convergence/?page_id=100

Oh, and I'm in general agreement with Roger about the washing aid thing. I'm using it now, but only because I was given a bunch of free chemistry and so hardening fixer is all I have right now.

 

[DRabbit]

Thanks for the links guys.

BTW, I found a local source for reels and I'm going to head over there in a little while so I can practice over the weekend. With any luck, by the time all the stuff gets here next week, I'll be ready to start!

I am still curious to hear from anyone who loads their film without opening the canister. With my camera, a little film is left sticking out after I've rewound. For sake of ease, I'd like to cut the leader and get the film started in the reel before I go dark.

Who else does it this way?

When you get to the end of the film do you cut or will it just come out of the canister?

Inquiring minds want to know 🙂

 

[dazedgonebye]

Thanks for the links guys.

BTW, I found a local source for reels and I'm going to head over there in a little while so I can practice over the weekend. With any luck, by the time all the stuff gets here next week, I'll be ready to start!

I am still curious to hear from anyone who loads their film without opening the canister. With my camera, a little film is left sticking out after I've rewound. For sake of ease, I'd like to cut the leader and get the film started in the reel before I go dark.

Who else does it this way?

When you get to the end of the film do you cut or will it just come out of the canister?

Inquiring minds want to know 🙂

When you get to the end of the film, you'll have to cut it. It's taped to the spool inside.
BTW, my cameras don't leave leaders out. So I use a bottle opener.

 

[wjlapier]

I recommend to keep the first try at developing really simple. No hypo clear, no stop (other than water). Use Tri-X and D76 with some kodak (or ilford) rapid fix. Here is an outline.

- Mix up D76 powder.
- Put D76 stock in jug, add equal amount of water to make 375 ml (if developing a single roll). Put thermometer in jug. If < 20C put in hot water, if > 20C put in cold water.
- Put film on reel.
- Put reel in tank.
- When D76 is around 20C, pour in developing tank. Start timer.
- Invert back and forth for 30 seconds.
- For the next 9:30 invert 5 times each 30s. Give the tank a couple of bangs on the counter after you are done inverting.
- At 10 minutes dump out the dev. Put in water. Shake for 30 seconds, dump.
- Add fixer, and shake for 30s. Bang on counter.
- Leave film for 5 minutes.
- Save fix back in bottle.
- Wash film. fill container, shake 5 times, dump. fill container, shake 10 times dump. Fill container, shake 20 times dump. Fill container, shake 40 times dump.
- You are done. Dry film in the bathroom for 2-3 hours. Cut & Sleeve.

dfoo,
I'm curious about the fixer stage of your process. Only agitate once and let it set for 5 minutes? I read or heard somewhere 20 second agitate and per 1 minute another 20 second agitate. I know everyone has a method, but I just want to make sure I read correctly your's. I have a few rolls and will try one with your method--btw, how much time would you develop with 100tmx @ 400ISO D76 1:1? I did a roll at 13.5 minutes and some images looked good while other's were underexposed--could be my faulty reading of light.

To the OP--it's alot of fun to develop your own and very rewarding. I'd follow the suggestions of not touching the negs after they come out of photoflo. During my rinse stage I run the shower not too hot for 5 minutes. Hang and dry for a few hours. I'm not having too many problems with scratches and dust, so I stick with this method. Good luck, and definitely share results!

 

[David William White]

Thanks for the links guys.

BTW, I found a local source for reels and I'm going to head over there in a little while so I can practice over the weekend. With any luck, by the time all the stuff gets here next week, I'll be ready to start!

I am still curious to hear from anyone who loads their film without opening the canister. With my camera, a little film is left sticking out after I've rewound. For sake of ease, I'd like to cut the leader and get the film started in the reel before I go dark.

Who else does it this way?

When you get to the end of the film do you cut or will it just come out of the canister?

Inquiring minds want to know 🙂

Yes, I leave the tongue out when I rewind. I only cut some leader off if it's crimped or bent or something.

I use the paterson vinyl reels and this is what I do: I hold the cartridge in my left hand and the reel in the right and grasp the film by the edges with my right fingers, pull a foot or so out of the cartridge with my left hand, grasp the film with my left fingers, and push it onto the reel, then repeat until she's all loaded. Just three or four pull-and-pushes and she's done, then snip. Steel reels are different.

Don't forget what I said about starting with 24 exp. rolls instead of 36. If you go for 36, you'll likely get 3/4 loaded and then stuck or something, especially since you said you were going to use a changing bag. Things can get hot and sticky in there sometimes!

Don't underestimate practicing over and over again until you've got it nailed. And don't forget my comments about developing film without reels if things take a turn for the worse.

BTW: JBrunner over on APUG (apug.org) has a link to his youtube videos showing how to load film onto steel reels.

Excellent! You are in for a treat!

 

[Chris101]

... I am still curious to hear from anyone who loads their film without opening the canister. With my camera, a little film is left sticking out after I've rewound. For sake of ease, I'd like to cut the leader and get the film started in the reel before I go dark.

Who else does it this way?

When you get to the end of the film do you cut or will it just come out of the canister?

Inquiring minds want to know 🙂

I've tried that, and it's not much of an advantage. It's pretty easy to open the canister, and then film loading onto the reels is better because you aren't restricted by the canister issues.

 

[DRabbit]

Well I've been practicing both ways and so far leaving it in the canister is easier... I have a hard time getting it started in the dark, but I'll keep working at it.

It IS much easier than I thought. No matter how many tutorials I read or watched it just looked it it was going to be hard to do in the dark... but so far the only issue I have is getting it started into the reel, but I imagine I'll get it with a little more practice.

BTW, David, I am practicing with 36 (because that's the film I bought and will be shooting with), and so far it hasn't been an issue. I did try with 24 and it's easier/quicker, but I think I'll be okay with 36.

 

[David William White]

Great! Sounds like you might be a natural.

 

[drewbarb]

The only problem with leaving in the can and reeling straight from there is that if there is anything in the felt trap, you could scratch your film. Opening the can up and removing the film eliminates this, but it might not be an issue.

 

[kansas_parker]

I've recently started developing my own film, albeit in a local arts and craft center's darkroom. It's one of the most fulfilling and enjoyable activities I can think of. I would suggest removing the film from the canister and then starting it on the reel. It's frustrating at first, but with a little practice it becomes very easy. Why limit your abilities. What if you get a camera that doesn't leave any leader? What if you decide to start developing 120 film (granted, you don't have to cut that to get it started, but it's still a similar process)? There's also the possiblility of dirt getting caught in the felt on your film canister.
I would also recommend using 24 exposure rolls. The 36 exp rolls are almost 50% longer which becomes a factor when wiping/squeegeeing off the film before drying. 36 exposures also max out the amount of space you have on the reels and, while I can't confirm this, seem to increase the possiblity of film sticking and not developing correctly. I'm sure that if this was a common problem then there would be no market for 36 exposure rolls, but who knows.
Enjoy!

 

[Rhodes]

When loading the film to my reel, it always gets stuck! Even if I cut the beginning like an arrow head. From what I’ve read, the ccw winding of cameras may be the cause. After trying always to load the film from lead to the end and never getting trough, I tried to load from the end. Since the film still has the CW roll shape, I manage to get into the reel quite well and fast!

 

[Ronald M]

After the first few scratches, you will learn where they come from. There is no reason to squeegee film, so just let it drip off with wetting agent.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20062101959492766.pdf

Down toward the bottom it tells you how to wash film and what kind of fix to use ( non hardening).

Since only a small quantity is required, use a gallon jug at the proper temp and use the last to mix with weting agent.

The wash sequence from Ilford works with Kodak and other film also if you use non hardening fix. Hardening is only requied for some 1950 designed films and now made in eastern europe.

 

[maddoc]

... 5-7 inversions in 5 seconds is Kodak's recommendation each 30s, and that's what I've used for most of the time I've been developing film. I did use at one point 5 each 60s for a short while, but I found the negatives lacked contrast.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

Similar here. After pouring the developer into the tank, I agitate slowly for the first 30 seconds and then two inversions every 30 seconds (except for diluted Rodinal where I agitate twice per minute).

 

[DRabbit]

Okay, so having practiced more over the weekend, now I can get the film started into the reel with my eyes closed. I've even done the whole thing "in the dark"... popping open the canister with a can opener, cutting the leader, getting it started onto the reel, and loaded.

An observation: Using the method where you cut the leader off and start the reel BEFORE going dark (leaving the film in the canister) offers one advantage... you're not coping with the curl in the film quite as bad, especially at the end when you have to cut it off the spool. Also, with this method obviously, you can get it started in the reel without worry since it's not in the dark. Of course, big downside is not all cameras rewind film where they leave the leader hanging out the end. Mine does.

HOWEVER, when you do the whole thing dark, using the method to get it out of the canister, you don't have the canister hampering your ability to get it on to the reel either. You don't have the canister itself flopping around getting in the way. There's also less fear the canister will scratch the film.

I feel pretty comfortable both ways... but I am going to give the edge to the "leave-the-canister-on" method right now. I'm going to keep practicing. I'm hoping to be able to develop my first roll next week sometime, so we'll have to see which method I use when the time comes...

On another note, I finished snapping off a roll of C41 B&W yesterday. I'm going to drop it off at the lab tomorrow (a pro-lab in my area). I should have some results to show by mid-week (if my scanner gets here). With any luck, I'll actually be able to compare the lab-developed and my own first results next weekend!