kjoosten
Rocket Scientist
...a little off topic.
I understand that matrix metering doesn't work with non-cpu lenses, is it possible somehow to hack that?
Depends on the camera body. For digital, the D200, D300, D700 and the single digit pro bodies can matrix meter with Ai and AiS Nikkors (max aperture data needs to be entered into the cam).
For film, the FA has a primitive matrix meter. The F4 will matrix meter with Ai and Ais Nikkors, but the F5 cannot. I believe the F6 can.
kjoosten
Rocket Scientist
...a little off topic.
I understand that matrix metering doesn't work with non-cpu lenses, is it possible somehow to hack that?
It is possible to "chip" Ai/S lenses if you can get and program the microchip.
http://nikongear.com/smf/index.php?topic=13656.0
Al Kaplan
Veteran
If you want accurate metering, if you want to know how much light is illuminating your subject, use a seperate incident light meter. Why everybody avoids this is beyond me. I guess nobody really wants accurately exposed shots. I guess it's just more fun to brag about your latest camera's fancy metering system and either waste film or play on the computer "fixing it in Photoshop".
If you were renting a couple of 35mm Mitchell motion picture cameras, lights, dollies, etc. plus a sound stage while paying a director, grips, camera operators,lighting and sound techs, actors and actresses, wardrobe people, hair and make-up stylists, and paying for thousands of feet of film and processing? You'd be using an incident meter and know how to use it.
Another way to get an old-timey B&W look going back to the days of orthochromatic film is to shoot through a blue filter. One of the Wrattan 80 series works great. You do have one in your kit, don't you?
If you were renting a couple of 35mm Mitchell motion picture cameras, lights, dollies, etc. plus a sound stage while paying a director, grips, camera operators,lighting and sound techs, actors and actresses, wardrobe people, hair and make-up stylists, and paying for thousands of feet of film and processing? You'd be using an incident meter and know how to use it.
Another way to get an old-timey B&W look going back to the days of orthochromatic film is to shoot through a blue filter. One of the Wrattan 80 series works great. You do have one in your kit, don't you?
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nikola
Well-known
There is no excuse I know! 
Thanks Kent, I'll check that out.
Thanks Kent, I'll check that out.
ampguy
Veteran
I'd recommend ...
I'd recommend ...
the very first generation of the zoom 43-86, which while still may have coatings, has much less than the later versions of this lens.
The lens has noticeable distortions at the extremes of the zoom, but around 55-65mm is OK and has "the look"
also, the long focus 28/2.8 non AI has a good "old look"
I'd recommend ...
the very first generation of the zoom 43-86, which while still may have coatings, has much less than the later versions of this lens.
The lens has noticeable distortions at the extremes of the zoom, but around 55-65mm is OK and has "the look"
also, the long focus 28/2.8 non AI has a good "old look"
nzhang
Member
If you can find old Nikkor-s 1:1.4 f=5.8cm, it is a lens showing lots of characters. The contrast is lower than later nikkor lenses and when wide open it will flare or glow to create a sunny feeling of your subjects. Another good candidate is Nikkor-H 85mm f1.8 featured in movie "blow-up", used near wide open, it will have old look. Last the 21mm nikkor-o f4, a very good wide angle lens, even if you use it at f11, it will still have old look unlike most of other Nikkor lenses.