Old film

[Michiel]

I've just very cheaply bought a large batch of film, all past its date (2000 and 2001)

Most of it is Kodak Tmax 400 and Tri-x 400. Also some HP2 and a bunch of 120 rolls of Fujichrome Provia 100.

It was all stored cold, but not frozen.

Should I expect any problems with this film or will it come out just as well as new film?

Thanks for reading and posting.

 

[pvdhaar]

I've just very cheaply bought a large batch of film, all past its date (2000 and 2001)

Most of it is Kodak Tmax 400 and Tri-x 400. Also some HP2 and a bunch of 120 rolls of Fujichrome Provia 100.

It was all stored cold, but not frozen.

Should I expect any problems with this film or will it come out just as well as new film?

Thanks for reading and posting.

One thing's for sure.. you won't have colour shifts with the B&W films 😀

Serious though, if they've been stored cold, I doubt there will be much trouble. Most of these films have a shelf life of a couple of years without cooling, so they'll be good a couple more when kept at low temps.

 

[Xmas]

The fog level is normally higher, which is equivalent to a loss in speed, if your normal technique is maginal in shadow detail or if the scenes are contrasty then try x2 exposure, or /2 film speed.

I'd not try the chrome on a wedding, but it should be ok on repeatable shots, I'd not adjust its speed, and process immediately.

Noel

 

[lynn]

I shot a roll of expired-in-1967 film last year. It was fine, except for some crinkly dark bits on the edges of the frames.
I found them charming.

 

[Xmas]

The HP2 and 'crinkly' seem worrying, HP3 was the earliest I can recall using, '61 I think... Wanna clarify?

Noel

 

[lynn]

Did I say HP2? Noooo. I don't believe I did, actually.
Svemapan 130. 35mm. Came with an *Bay Cosmic 35. Two rolls good till 1968, one till 1967. I shot the latter, and am looking forward to shooting the other two. Crinkly edges do not worry me. The results were lovely.
I posted the images on RFF, once upon a time.

 

[Xmas]

Lynn

You said crinkly, old film had less preharding, might have got it to crinkle what did you do?
1st post in thread said HP2...
So what did you do and were the edges really crinckly?

Noel

 

[lynn]

I didn't mean "crinkly" as a texture thing. I was referring to the dark scalloped shadow on the edge of the frames:

I shot the Svemapan in a Ricoh Gr1s which opted for a default ASA of 100; I had it developed at a local quick-lab, and scanned it myself. It was fine, that's all..especially considering that I was younger than my children are now when this film was produced.

 

[ruben]

Should I expect any problems with this film or will it come out just as well as new film?

.............

As for the BW film, in "cold" means out of refrigerator, I think you will be able to find the best developing time, specific for the conditions of those films. In case "cold" means "within the refrigerator but not frozen", then I wouldn't worry at all, and start processing as you may have in the past.

How do you test processing time?

a) Pick a roll, meter your subject carefully and repeat 36 exposures of the same subject.

b) At darkroom take out some cut or this exposed film, of the lenght of let's say 5 frames and process normally. The rest of the film should be kept inside the film cannister.


c) When the film is dry you will have to make a print at "normal" or standard contrast paper (or enlarger calibration). This means paper No 2 or its equivalent in color enlargers. If you use variable contrast paper, then of course filter No 2.

d) If you can print with ease and have a good image, then you have reached the correct film processing time. If under this printing situation your image results washed and lacking contrast, then you will have to increase film processing time in your next trial.

e) How much to increase? Instead of guessing hit the maximum reasonable: 125%, repeat the printing test and act accordingly. Most of the chances are that you will have to reduce developing time. AGAIN, INSTEAD OF GUESSING, REDUCE DEVELOPING TIME BY HALF OF THE INCREASE. AND AT THIS POINT AFTER PRINTING, YOU WILL KNOW IN WHICH DIRECTION TO REFINE.

Now, all these may sound too much film testing. But what you will gain from it will multiply a hundred times your former investment.

Cheers,
Ruben

Ignorant about slide film, yet my feeling is that you will have to compensate, if needed, via exposure.

 

[Xmas]

Lynn

Yes crinckly, not seen that before what was the rebate data like?

Noel

 

[lynn]

Lynn

Yes crinckly, not seen that before what was the rebate data like?

Noel

What, exactly, is "rebate data"? It sounds rather like it might refer to "expiry date", but it can't, can it now, since I already mentioned that?

 

[Xmas]

Lynn

The edge beyond the photograph is clear film (with B&W) but normally has preprinted (exposed) frame numbers and film emulsion type... some people call it the rebate...

Noel

 

[lushd]

Hi Lynn - rebate data is the data imprinted on the edges of the film, frame numbers, make of film and speed and sometimes other information. It's only visible after the film is developed. I tried out some very old Svema (from a friend in St Petersburg) and it turned out to have a clear base and no data on the edges of the frames at all. So not all films have it.

Regards