Oly OM-2n or 2sp...?

[oscroft]

It's funny, though ... I get along really well with the 21/2

Interesting. I had a 21/3.5 for a while, but I found I didn't really use it - even though it's a really good lens.

I do use a 21, but I always found myself reaching for RF gear, which to me seems to better suit super-wide shooting (though I don't really know why).

It was too valuable a lens to keep unused, so I sold it and put the money towards a Bessa R4 for my CV 21/4, and that's an awesome combination 🙂 .

 

[oscroft]

A few thoughts on zooms, which nobody seems to have mentioned so far...

I travel a lot, and light weight and small size can often be a big advantage to me and can outweigh the slightly inferior performance that we expect from zooms, so I have a few.

I've been through three of the 35-70 zooms. I had the f/3.6 at one time, and that's superb - I'd say the results are largely indistinguishable from the equivalent primes. But it was really too big and heavy for my use, so that got sold.

I also had the ubiquitous f/4 for a while, at the same time as an f/3.5-4.5. I thought the f/4 was probably marginally better optically, but I preferred the smaller and lighter f/3.5-4.5 for carrying around, so thats the one I kept - the f/4.5 isn't much of a problem for me, as the lens is really only for occasional use in tropical lighting. (There was also a "budget" f/3.5-4.8 at one time, but I've never seen one of those).

As a companion, I also have a 75-150/4, which I think is a pretty decent lens - I like that focal length range, and again it's a case of being a good enough compromise when I don't want to be carrying an 85/100/135 combination. I find it useful for public events and crowd occasions, where speed and cramped conditions are hindrances to lens-changing.

But for me, the star of the tele zooms is the 100-200/5. I think it's a cracking lens, and really isn't too heavy.

I've also had the 35-105 and 65-200, but both of those were too big and bulky for me and so they didn't stay with me for long.

I also have a 28-48/4, but for some reason I've hardly used it. The few results I've had look fine, so I should probably stick it on a body and carry it round for a while.

 

[john_van_v]

I am a long time OM-1er, bought it when it appeared with money from mopping and not mommy/daddy.

I heard OM-2s chew through batteries. Is that true for any (or all) of them?

 

[John Hermanson]

I would take the 2N as it is much more serviceable. The meter, circuit boards are all separate and can be replaced individually. With the 2S (major parts not available) all functions, meter, speed control, auto, program are all on one dual sided flex that winds through the camera. Major malfunction? The 2S is beyond repair. John, www.zuiko.com

 

[John Hermanson]

Oscroft mentioned zooms. If considering used Zuiko zooms be sure to inspect 50-250 & 65-250 for frosted rear elements. Seems to be a regular problem, no repair parts available for either. John.

 

[George S.]

The OM-2sp that I had drained the batteries within 24 hours. Did not matter if the camera was on or off, the battery just drained. I'm not sure why it happens, but that could be construed to be a problem with the electronics.

Yes, that can be construed as a problem with YOUR camera's electronics. I still wouldn't group all OM-2SPs in the "problem with electronics" category. I've owned two OM-2SP bodies for decades now and have had no problems with batteries or electronics. As John Hermanson has stated, just about all models of OMs that depend on batteries have low level battery drain issues, with the -T models being much better in this regard. I think people generally tend to group the SP in their minds with the more "pro" T models, and see the battery drain as more of an issue. Most OMs will drain their batteries in 6 months time whether they are used or stored, and at about $1 per button battery, I'l gladly invest the $4 per year, when other types of camera batteries can run $15 each.

As with any camera body of that vintage that depends on an electronic circuit you run the risk that IF something goes wrong with it you won't be able to replace it, but that doesn't make a proper functioning one a bad choice. People forget that these cameras are 20 - 30 years old already and any purchase should be treated as you would a used car, it could work well for 15 more years or it could fail tomorrow morning when you try to start it. Lots of people still buy used cars.

 

[newspaperguy]

FWIW - If you know OM cameras, you know - or should know - John Hermanson as the the elite Olympus repair guru. He has CLA'd at least four of my cameras and believe me, he knows of what he speaks.

 

[OurManInTangier]

I picked up my Oly SP, a 50mm 1.8 and 35mm 2.8 for around £80.00 for the sole purpose of leaving in the glove box of my car so that I always have a camera to hand. The battery life was disconcerting especially as it sits in the car until I really need it, when I'd find it had no juice whatsoever.

Now that I've found out how to leave it on the Bulb setting ( you have to hit a little switch to get the dial round that far) it is much much better. I also carry two extra sets of spare batteries in the car...just incase!

I'm sure there are better versions of the OM system but at that price and my reason for buying made it too good to pass up - I also love spot metering, it doesn't bother me if I don't have it but I find it my favourite metering method.

The only OM I didn't like was one I bought before I got into RF cameras when I was trying to find something smaller and less obtrusive than my Nikon SLR's, I think it was the OM10...it was the one that was fully automatic, not good.

 

[Trius]

I picked up my Oly SP, a 50mm 1.8 and 35mm 2.8 for around £80.00 for the sole purpose of leaving in the glove box of my car so that I always have a camera to hand. The battery life was disconcerting especially as it sits in the car until I really need it, when I'd find it had no juice whatsoever.

Now that I've found out how to leave it on the Bulb setting ( you have to hit a little switch to get the dial round that far) it is much much better. I also carry two extra sets of spare batteries in the car...just incase!

I'm sure there are better versions of the OM system but at that price and my reason for buying made it too good to pass up - I also love spot metering, it doesn't bother me if I don't have it but I find it my favourite metering method.

The only OM I didn't like was one I bought before I got into RF cameras when I was trying to find something smaller and less obtrusive than my Nikon SLR's, I think it was the OM10...it was the one that was fully automatic, not good.

I think on all the electronic OMs setting on bulb disengages the circuit. I believe the documentation only mentions it in case the shutter & mirror lock up when a battery is flat, as that is the fix.

There was a manual adapter for the OM-10 -- I have seen them on eBay as standalone items a bit more frequently, but haven't particularly been paying attention more recently. While a double-digit series OM, it wasn't bad; my dad had/has one. Often a dead OM-10 is used as a donor for a pentaprism for an OM-1 (pre OM-1 MD, I believe) that has had etching of the lower surface of the pentaprism due to the adhesive used for the mirror bumper felt of the original OM-1 production run.

 

[plummerl]

...
Now that I've found out how to leave it on the Bulb setting ( you have to hit a little switch to get the dial round that far) it is much much better. I also carry two extra sets of spare batteries in the car...just incase!
...

I think on all the electronic OMs setting on bulb disengages the circuit. I believe the documentation only mentions it in case the shutter & mirror lock up when a battery is flat, as that is the fix.

There was a manual adapter for the OM-10 -- I have seen them on eBay as standalone items a bit more frequently, but haven't particularly been paying attention more recently. While a double-digit series OM, it wasn't bad; my dad had/has one. Often a dead OM-10 is used as a donor for a pentaprism for an OM-1 (pre OM-1 MD, I believe) that has had etching of the lower surface of the pentaprism due to the adhesive used for the mirror bumper felt of the original OM-1 production run.

Sorry, but to quote John Hermanson, this is not the case: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1072282. I would tend to believe John (as well as my own observations).

 

[John Hermanson]

On some plain OM-2, setting to B will turn the meter movement off. Setting to Red B/60 on OM-4 will prevent meter relight from working but baseline battery drain is always there. 4T/Ti have approx. 1/6th the battery drain of original OM-4. OM-10, G, 20, F, 30, PC, 40 etc. are all models that Mr. Maitani was not involved with. John

 

[Trius]

My bad. I get confused on the etching issue. And I'm older than I used to be.

 

[Koolzakukumba]

+1 for the OM2. The OM 2SP really isn't in the same class as the OM2. Poorer build, rougher feel, horrible double mirror schlopping sound, dodgy electricals, massive battery appetite. The OM2 is a gem, one of the all time classic 35mm SLRs.

 

[dtcls100]

Yeah, the 300/4.5 (even though I'm not a tele guy) is cracker. It is sharp as hell, and surprisingly easy to handhold. At least it was when I was younger. 😀

Agreed. I have a 300/4.5 multicoated version. It is an excellent lens, being very sharp, having excellent color rendition and being very portable for its focal length. However, the focusing ring is very heavily damped, though quite smooth, and thus is relatively slow focusing.

 

[gustavoAvila]

I got the OM-2n, but, without a lens. What should I look for...?

If possible, only buy from vendors who allow returns.

In the past year, three of my Zuiko's suddenly began to suffer from sticky diaphragms rendering them essentially useless.

This condition can be diagnosed by observing the action of the lens diaphragm while rapidly activating the depth-of-field button. The blades should open and close easily with no "stickiness" or "squeaky" noises. Perform this action for various orientations.

If the lens is thus afflicted, send it back promptly as this is an expensive problem to fix!

 

[kuzano]

OM2SP and OM4 battery drain....

OM2SP and OM4 battery drain....

I have also heard reports about the 2SP and OM4 battery drain problem. The problem was not nearly as prominent on the 2SP as the OM4, but it has been mentioned more than I would trust to buy one.

The solution for the consistent stories of battery drain on the OM4 was a replacement of a circuit board from the OM4Ti. Tales have it that those boards are all NLA so the fix for the OM4 is also NLA.

However, the man I would trust as a fairly final authority on the subject is John (Jon) Hermanson, OM tech extraordinaire of Zuiko.com

Which reminds me, I have a black OM-1, which would be my 1st choice to have CLA'd and calibrated to current batteries. With that done, all my OM2's will go away. I will keep the black and one chrome OM1, which also has to go to Zuiko.com for CLA and revive the meter.

Perhaps this is the month I will eat less and send the camera's in for service.

 

[Archlich]

John stated elsewhere that since the OM2S can't be turned off completely (even setting the shutter speed to 1/60 or B won't help), the only solution is to use silver dioxide batteries instead of the alkaline ones.

I found it's very effective on mine, that the pair of LR44 that came with the camera died within a day, and the SR44s I installed later went strong for months.

 

[eurekaiv]

I had an OM2S for a short period of time but had to return it to KEH due to a shutter curtain that was dragging at high speeds. I much preferred the OM2n anyway as it simply felt better. I have an OM4 on the way now though, so we'll see how that works out. I really like having another stop on the shutter speed dial so I'm hoping its as nice a user.