Bill58
Native Texan
I just tried out my "new" SP w/ a roll of cheap Kodak color film and I've got a weird highlight almost in the middle of most of the images. What the h.....is it? Anybody know?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks,
Bill
Oly SP problem
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zuikologist
.........................
Sounds like a light leak - is the highlight in the same place on all the photos?
Bill58
Native Texan
Yes--it is and it's somewhat round, so it must be blades not closing properly? I've meticulously resealed it. Needs a CLA?
zuikologist
.........................
You might be able to see the light through the blades if they are not closing. Otherwise there might be a leak from somewhere else, say through the top plate.
Forgot to ask - did you use a filter? Sometimes not a great addition to a Zuiko lens in bright light.
Forgot to ask - did you use a filter? Sometimes not a great addition to a Zuiko lens in bright light.
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oftheherd
Veteran
Normal. After all, it is a "spot" meter. 😀
Does sound like blades. A flashlight in a darkened room should let you know. It is probably not closing quite as quickly as it should. Hope you get it resolved quickly and easily. They are nice cameras.
Does sound like blades. A flashlight in a darkened room should let you know. It is probably not closing quite as quickly as it should. Hope you get it resolved quickly and easily. They are nice cameras.
Bill58
Native Texan
Very funny--A CLA here is only $70 USD, so I guess it's worth it. Thanks for the tip.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Bill, I hope the $70 is by a competent camera tech. By competent I meant either trained by Olympus or has fixed enough Olys to be competent.
My OM-1 was resealed by a camera tech and the new seal covers the film counter reset mechanism so it doesn't work anymore. It took me (me... a dumbell when it comes to repair) a while to figure out what's going on.
My OM-1 was resealed by a camera tech and the new seal covers the film counter reset mechanism so it doesn't work anymore. It took me (me... a dumbell when it comes to repair) a while to figure out what's going on.
Bill58
Native Texan
shadowfox said:
Your concern is well-founded, but I'm in Korea and the cost of living isn't up to the USA's yet. However, I'm lucky to find a highly competant guy (Leica, Nikon certifications) in a country where quality isn't necessarily the most important factor (read between the lines in my politically- correct answer).
nottageek
Member
Bill,
Interested in hearing how the repair worked out. Looking for a good Oly repairman in Asia.
Charles
Interested in hearing how the repair worked out. Looking for a good Oly repairman in Asia.
Charles
Bill58
Native Texan
UPDATE: Well--the CLAs were done and both are smooth as a baby's butt, but the light leaks are still there. In the absence of any pics by Jon Goodman on kyphoto.com, can anyone lead me to a solution?
Maybe the light leaks are at the door hinge. Is there a foam strip on the door next to the hinge at 90 degrees to the length of the door as well as the corresponding area on the body? In other words, are there DOUBLE foam strips in that area?
Many thanks,
Bill
p.s. nottageek--the repairman is a solid, highly competant guy and his work is cheap. The CLAs cost $70/ each. Most of the time when I visit him, he's working on a Leica M2/3/ 4, etc.
Maybe the light leaks are at the door hinge. Is there a foam strip on the door next to the hinge at 90 degrees to the length of the door as well as the corresponding area on the body? In other words, are there DOUBLE foam strips in that area?
Many thanks,
Bill
p.s. nottageek--the repairman is a solid, highly competant guy and his work is cheap. The CLAs cost $70/ each. Most of the time when I visit him, he's working on a Leica M2/3/ 4, etc.
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Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Bill: I will take a look at one of my SPs a little later and report back this evening.
Bill58
Native Texan
Trius---thanks a lot!
Bill58
Native Texan
"Dr." Jon Goodman of foam reseal kit fame has diagnosed the problem thusly (w/ permission):
"Thanks for the note. I have attached the re-sealing instructions for the 35SP, but I don't really think you are suffering a light leak. The reason I say that is the damage on your scans is all whitish/grayish in nature, and the pictures seem to be generally over-exposed by a stop or so, maybe a bit less. For this reason, I am thinking you have either a lens flare/glare problem combined possibly with a meter problem (and the meter in the 35SP is a design which can have problems as it ages). With color negative film, light striking the front side of the film will produce a whitish/grayish damage whereas light striking the back side will produce orange/yellow/red damage. Light striking the back causes the color layers to react first, where light striking the front side simply tells the film to overexpose indiscriminately. Were you using a hood or filter of any kind? I would try a UV filter or a short hood (maybe 3/4 of an inch to an inch and a half) if you can find one. You seem to be getting too much light on the film first of all (a meter problem), and second to that, the very center of the lens seems to be picking up light and making a flare spot out of it. Were these shots taken when the sun was high overhead? I'll be interested to hear." Note: I used a hood.
and as p.s:
" I'm not convinced the meter design was as good as the sales data claimed at all. Comparing it to meters in Minoltas, Canons, Yashicas, Konicas, it is slower and less accurate. Not really a criticism as much as an observation".
"Thanks for the note. I have attached the re-sealing instructions for the 35SP, but I don't really think you are suffering a light leak. The reason I say that is the damage on your scans is all whitish/grayish in nature, and the pictures seem to be generally over-exposed by a stop or so, maybe a bit less. For this reason, I am thinking you have either a lens flare/glare problem combined possibly with a meter problem (and the meter in the 35SP is a design which can have problems as it ages). With color negative film, light striking the front side of the film will produce a whitish/grayish damage whereas light striking the back side will produce orange/yellow/red damage. Light striking the back causes the color layers to react first, where light striking the front side simply tells the film to overexpose indiscriminately. Were you using a hood or filter of any kind? I would try a UV filter or a short hood (maybe 3/4 of an inch to an inch and a half) if you can find one. You seem to be getting too much light on the film first of all (a meter problem), and second to that, the very center of the lens seems to be picking up light and making a flare spot out of it. Were these shots taken when the sun was high overhead? I'll be interested to hear." Note: I used a hood.
and as p.s:
" I'm not convinced the meter design was as good as the sales data claimed at all. Comparing it to meters in Minoltas, Canons, Yashicas, Konicas, it is slower and less accurate. Not really a criticism as much as an observation".
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Bill: Glad you got the reply from Jon. I suspected it was not a light leak, but wanted to help anyway, if possible. The back has two seals on the latch side, that run vertically near the edge of the door. They are thicker material than the channel seals that run lengthwise, but you have to be careful so that you don't use material that is too thick, else the back will not latch securely.
I sort of agree with Jon about the meter. It is relatively slow to respond, but it has never been an issue for me. I suppose if I had the impossible-to-find Olympus 35SP MD model, I would have an issue. 😀 I have found the meter to be accurate, but then I use the spot mode quite a lot, so that may account for my experience.
I sort of agree with Jon about the meter. It is relatively slow to respond, but it has never been an issue for me. I suppose if I had the impossible-to-find Olympus 35SP MD model, I would have an issue. 😀 I have found the meter to be accurate, but then I use the spot mode quite a lot, so that may account for my experience.
Bill58
Native Texan
Further update--my repair guy isn't convinced the problem isn't my foam reseal job, so he's gonna put electical tape all around the door on the outside edges, then check for light leaks by exposing/ processing a few frames. Clever. Now why didn't I think of that kind of check?
Trius--thanks, but you said "The back has two seals on the latch side, that run vertically near the edge of the door." I don't understand where that is. Are the two seals your referred to on the door at the latch end or on the body? What is vertical? Parallel or 90 degrees to the length of the door?
Thanks,
Bill
Trius--thanks, but you said "The back has two seals on the latch side, that run vertically near the edge of the door." I don't understand where that is. Are the two seals your referred to on the door at the latch end or on the body? What is vertical? Parallel or 90 degrees to the length of the door?
Thanks,
Bill
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Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Bill: They are on the door and they are 90 deg to the length of the door. Sorry! When I wrote it, I just knew it wasn't clear, but I was tired. 😉
I'll see if I can do a digisnap later.
I'll see if I can do a digisnap later.
Bill58
Native Texan
Trius said:
Trius--no problema. It's difficult to describe these kinds of things in WORDS.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
Bill58
Native Texan
Problems solved--in my haste to reseal the SPs, I did not make sure that the new foam went from absolute end-to-end in the body channels leaving a slight gap at the ends or corners of the body, according to my repair guy. Live and learn.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Bill: Good! It's too good a camera to have out of commission. Now for some pix ... 😉
Earl
Earl
Bill58
Native Texan
Trius--thanks for your help!
Bill
Bill
