ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
I need to use this combination for a one off photo.
The OM2 SP instructions do not cover flash.
The T32 instructions do not cover the OM2 SP.
On a try out today I couldn't see a 'Flash Ready' indicator in the viewfinder, which I would have expected.
And after a test photo I could see something briefly in the viewfinder above the 1000 marking but I couldn't read whether it was telling me 'OK' or 'No Good'.
If the camera is set to Program, and the flash in in Automatic does it all sort itself out?
The OM2 SP instructions do not cover flash.
The T32 instructions do not cover the OM2 SP.
On a try out today I couldn't see a 'Flash Ready' indicator in the viewfinder, which I would have expected.
And after a test photo I could see something briefly in the viewfinder above the 1000 marking but I couldn't read whether it was telling me 'OK' or 'No Good'.
If the camera is set to Program, and the flash in in Automatic does it all sort itself out?
phemy
Newbie
You need the second part of the OM2S instruction manual (Part B "For Your Creative Photography"), for there you will find, on page 31, the following:-
http://zuserver2.star.ucl.ac.uk/~rwesson/esif/om-sif/bodygroup/manuals/om2sp_creative.pdf is a link to your missing manual Part B
HTH!
"If you use a T-series flash .. the exposure mode on the automatically switches according to the camera's exposure mode. If you want to take pictures in the "OTF" programmed-exposure mode, set the camera's mode to PROGRAM, set the lens to its minimum aperture, cliup on the T-series flash and turn on the power switch. The camera will automatically set the aperture depending on the subject brightness. To take pictures in the "OTF" direct auo mode, set the camera's mode lever to AUTO, clip on the f;ash, and turn on the power switch. You will have to set the aperture by yourself."
http://zuserver2.star.ucl.ac.uk/~rwesson/esif/om-sif/bodygroup/manuals/om2sp_creative.pdf is a link to your missing manual Part B
HTH!
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
phemy:
Wonderful, just what I needed and what I haven't had for the 20 years I've had the camera and the flash.
I had the instructions but never knew about the 'Part B' although I assumed that Maitani had designed the system to just work right first time.
Thank you so very much.
I need to use flash tonight at about 20m (and get the exposure right). Now I am confident the camera can do it.
Wonderful, just what I needed and what I haven't had for the 20 years I've had the camera and the flash.
I had the instructions but never knew about the 'Part B' although I assumed that Maitani had designed the system to just work right first time.
Thank you so very much.
I need to use flash tonight at about 20m (and get the exposure right). Now I am confident the camera can do it.
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
Piers actually sent two publications which covered points neither in the Olympus camera/flash instructions nor in the Harold Franklin 'Hove' book.
After waiting twenty years an RFF member came up with the goods within a few minutes.
Now I can do my night flash photo from 20m tonight and know what I'm doing.
Thank you Piers Hemy.
After waiting twenty years an RFF member came up with the goods within a few minutes.
Now I can do my night flash photo from 20m tonight and know what I'm doing.
Thank you Piers Hemy.
tom_f77
Tom Fenwick
John, some further thoughts from the OM mailing list:
From Chuck Norcutt:
I suspect that he may not be fully sorted yet. I don't belong to the
Rangefinder forum so perhaps you or Piers might post some of this.
First, a warning based on the poster's intent to use the T32 at 20
meters. Using the T32's calculator panel (on the auto/manual side of
the panel) you can see that, even at ISO 400, an f/2.8 lens will be
required to reach 20 meters. Actually, the calculator panel indicates
something between f/4 and f/2.8 which my manual calculations show to be
f/3.1. However, since most flash manufacturers generally fib by at
least 1/3 stop on their guide numbers (and the T32 is no exception) the
actual requirement at 20 meters and ISO 400 will likely be f/2.8. If
you don't have an f/2.8 lens that will reach the distance required then
a film faster than ISO 400 will be required or else accept a stop or
more of underexposure.
Of course, this all assumes that the T32 is the only light source. If
shooting a stage production, for example, which provides moderately
bright ambient light a slower film and lens may be OK. It also assumes
that you don't have the T32 "zoom adapter" which narrows the angle of
view and raises the ISO 100 guide number to as high as 42 at the 135mm
setting. In any case, be aware that the T32 may be approaching its
limits here.
Now to some questions that were posed but not answered. Yes, the OM-2sp
has a "flash ready" signal in the viewfinder. It's at the extreme upper
left of the viewfinder and is a green (or red) square with the symbol of
a lighting bolt in the center. The flash ready signal glows when the
flash is charged and blinks very rapidly for a couple of seconds after a
*correct* exposure had been made. If it simply goes out then there has
been an under or overexposure which is indicated by "under" and "over"
(text) indicators between the top of the shutter speed scale and the
flash ready signal. These may be extremely difficult to see under dark
conditions since they are not illuminated like the ready signal is. The
"over" indicator sits directly above the shutter speed scale and the
"under" indicator is above that. It may be possible to see them better
if you use the viewfinder illuminator button (right side of camera below
the prism) but it only stays on for 10 seconds and it's difficult to
coordinate that with your shot.
If your OM-2sp has a green ready light in the viewfinder then it's the
original design which draws its power from the camera batteries. If the
ready light is red then it's a later design which draws its power from
the flash batteries. Olympus modified many or the original green type
to the red type because of complaints about excess battery drain to
power the ready light. Just be aware that, when the flash is powered on
the camera may be using more power than usual if you have the green
ready light. In any case, be sure to use fresh batteries and make sure
you are using silver oxide rather than alkaline batteries. Alkaline
batteries will not last very long in OM cameras such as the 2sp which do
not have on/off switches.
The reason you may not have seen the ready light come on is that you may
have been doing test shots without film in the camera. The OM-2sp's
exposure system is TTL OTF (Off The Film) which means the metering
system reads the light reflected from the film during actual exposure.
If there is no film in the camera the only thing the meter sees is
reflection from the black pressure plate. Not much to reflect from and
certainly not enough to indicate a correct exposure. If you have a test
roll put that in the camera before doing exposure tests.
With the camera in Program or auto mode and the T32 in use in TTL mode
(calculator panel turned to the blank side) or in "normal auto" mode
(calculator panel outward) the "auto check" light on the back of the
flash should blink like the ready light does to indicate a good
exposure. No blink, something was wrong. If the camera is in manual
mode and the flash is in "normal auto" mode the flash will respond to
its own internal sensor and flash the "auto check" light by itself
without camera assistance. In that case no film is required in the
camera to do an exposure test since the TTL flash circuitry is not
involved. A test flash can also be made with the test button on the
back of the flash. If in "normal auto" mode the "auto check" light will
blink if a good exposure was indicated. When the flash is in manual
mode the "auto check" can't be used since the flash has no indication of
the aperture in use.
Dr. Flash
PS
In re-reading my response I note that I said: "The reason you may not
have seen the ready light come on is that you may have been doing test
shots without film in the camera." This is not true for the ready light
in its "ready" role. It's only true for the ready light in it's
flashing role as a good exposure indicator. If the ready light is not
visible in the viewfinder with a steady glow when the flash itself is
powered on and indicating ready then something is wrong.
Dr. Flash
From Chuck Norcutt:
I suspect that he may not be fully sorted yet. I don't belong to the
Rangefinder forum so perhaps you or Piers might post some of this.
First, a warning based on the poster's intent to use the T32 at 20
meters. Using the T32's calculator panel (on the auto/manual side of
the panel) you can see that, even at ISO 400, an f/2.8 lens will be
required to reach 20 meters. Actually, the calculator panel indicates
something between f/4 and f/2.8 which my manual calculations show to be
f/3.1. However, since most flash manufacturers generally fib by at
least 1/3 stop on their guide numbers (and the T32 is no exception) the
actual requirement at 20 meters and ISO 400 will likely be f/2.8. If
you don't have an f/2.8 lens that will reach the distance required then
a film faster than ISO 400 will be required or else accept a stop or
more of underexposure.
Of course, this all assumes that the T32 is the only light source. If
shooting a stage production, for example, which provides moderately
bright ambient light a slower film and lens may be OK. It also assumes
that you don't have the T32 "zoom adapter" which narrows the angle of
view and raises the ISO 100 guide number to as high as 42 at the 135mm
setting. In any case, be aware that the T32 may be approaching its
limits here.
Now to some questions that were posed but not answered. Yes, the OM-2sp
has a "flash ready" signal in the viewfinder. It's at the extreme upper
left of the viewfinder and is a green (or red) square with the symbol of
a lighting bolt in the center. The flash ready signal glows when the
flash is charged and blinks very rapidly for a couple of seconds after a
*correct* exposure had been made. If it simply goes out then there has
been an under or overexposure which is indicated by "under" and "over"
(text) indicators between the top of the shutter speed scale and the
flash ready signal. These may be extremely difficult to see under dark
conditions since they are not illuminated like the ready signal is. The
"over" indicator sits directly above the shutter speed scale and the
"under" indicator is above that. It may be possible to see them better
if you use the viewfinder illuminator button (right side of camera below
the prism) but it only stays on for 10 seconds and it's difficult to
coordinate that with your shot.
If your OM-2sp has a green ready light in the viewfinder then it's the
original design which draws its power from the camera batteries. If the
ready light is red then it's a later design which draws its power from
the flash batteries. Olympus modified many or the original green type
to the red type because of complaints about excess battery drain to
power the ready light. Just be aware that, when the flash is powered on
the camera may be using more power than usual if you have the green
ready light. In any case, be sure to use fresh batteries and make sure
you are using silver oxide rather than alkaline batteries. Alkaline
batteries will not last very long in OM cameras such as the 2sp which do
not have on/off switches.
The reason you may not have seen the ready light come on is that you may
have been doing test shots without film in the camera. The OM-2sp's
exposure system is TTL OTF (Off The Film) which means the metering
system reads the light reflected from the film during actual exposure.
If there is no film in the camera the only thing the meter sees is
reflection from the black pressure plate. Not much to reflect from and
certainly not enough to indicate a correct exposure. If you have a test
roll put that in the camera before doing exposure tests.
With the camera in Program or auto mode and the T32 in use in TTL mode
(calculator panel turned to the blank side) or in "normal auto" mode
(calculator panel outward) the "auto check" light on the back of the
flash should blink like the ready light does to indicate a good
exposure. No blink, something was wrong. If the camera is in manual
mode and the flash is in "normal auto" mode the flash will respond to
its own internal sensor and flash the "auto check" light by itself
without camera assistance. In that case no film is required in the
camera to do an exposure test since the TTL flash circuitry is not
involved. A test flash can also be made with the test button on the
back of the flash. If in "normal auto" mode the "auto check" light will
blink if a good exposure was indicated. When the flash is in manual
mode the "auto check" can't be used since the flash has no indication of
the aperture in use.
Dr. Flash
PS
In re-reading my response I note that I said: "The reason you may not
have seen the ready light come on is that you may have been doing test
shots without film in the camera." This is not true for the ready light
in its "ready" role. It's only true for the ready light in it's
flashing role as a good exposure indicator. If the ready light is not
visible in the viewfinder with a steady glow when the flash itself is
powered on and indicating ready then something is wrong.
Dr. Flash
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
Tom:
Thank you for a very complete reply.
In tests this afternoon I've seen a green 'Ready' signal just flicker a couple of times. Yes, with film in the camera.
The camera batteries are fresh LR44, and the flash batteries are fresh Toshiba AA alkaline. The best in my local store.
Tonight's scene is lit by street lights and ambient shopfront light, and I aim to underexpose by 1 or 2 stops to make it look authentically dark. I'm using ISO200 film.
The film will go for processing tomorrow. And I understand the scene will be there for a few nights, so I can adjust and repeat a few times.
You may gather that I don't generally use either flash or this camera. But it's the f1.8 lens which is the fastest Zuiko I have.
I'm confident I can make it work.
Thank you for a very complete reply.
In tests this afternoon I've seen a green 'Ready' signal just flicker a couple of times. Yes, with film in the camera.
The camera batteries are fresh LR44, and the flash batteries are fresh Toshiba AA alkaline. The best in my local store.
Tonight's scene is lit by street lights and ambient shopfront light, and I aim to underexpose by 1 or 2 stops to make it look authentically dark. I'm using ISO200 film.
The film will go for processing tomorrow. And I understand the scene will be there for a few nights, so I can adjust and repeat a few times.
You may gather that I don't generally use either flash or this camera. But it's the f1.8 lens which is the fastest Zuiko I have.
I'm confident I can make it work.
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
Update:
I used the camera and flash last night when the street was empty, as a sudden flash with passing vehicles may well have caused a 'Princess Diana' moment otherwise.
There was never a 'Ready' in the viewfinder and never any sort of confirmation. I made several photos with both eyes open and saw every time the flash did not work first time, but it did work second time a few seconds later.
Yes, the flash was fully charged judging by it stopped whining, and i left it a good time more just to make certain.
The film is only half used so I'll keep it in the camera and take it to the lab tomorrow morning.
I'm enjoying using this camera again after the many years it has been in storage.
I used the camera and flash last night when the street was empty, as a sudden flash with passing vehicles may well have caused a 'Princess Diana' moment otherwise.
There was never a 'Ready' in the viewfinder and never any sort of confirmation. I made several photos with both eyes open and saw every time the flash did not work first time, but it did work second time a few seconds later.
Yes, the flash was fully charged judging by it stopped whining, and i left it a good time more just to make certain.
The film is only half used so I'll keep it in the camera and take it to the lab tomorrow morning.
I'm enjoying using this camera again after the many years it has been in storage.
tom_f77
Tom Fenwick
John,
More useful thoughts from the Oly list:
-----------------------------------------------
John Hermanson to Olympus
show details 13:26 (1 minute ago)
Reply
Of all the 2S bodies I see, most have slightly tarnished top cover
contacts which keep the viewfinder LED from lighting. Next comes loose
hot shoe which can sometimes break the solder joint on the inner flex.
If using multiple flashes connected by TTL cords, viewfinder LED will
not turn on unless all flashes are turned on.
2S voltage point for shutter lock is 2.6V. Alkaline (LR44 & A76) and
lithium (CR1/3N) will drop to this faster than silver oxide batteries
(SR44W, 357, G-13, MS76, KS76, S76).
___________________________________
John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
Olympus OM Service since 1977
Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
- Show quoted text -
More useful thoughts from the Oly list:
-----------------------------------------------
John Hermanson to Olympus
show details 13:26 (1 minute ago)
Reply
Of all the 2S bodies I see, most have slightly tarnished top cover
contacts which keep the viewfinder LED from lighting. Next comes loose
hot shoe which can sometimes break the solder joint on the inner flex.
If using multiple flashes connected by TTL cords, viewfinder LED will
not turn on unless all flashes are turned on.
2S voltage point for shutter lock is 2.6V. Alkaline (LR44 & A76) and
lithium (CR1/3N) will drop to this faster than silver oxide batteries
(SR44W, 357, G-13, MS76, KS76, S76).
___________________________________
John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
Olympus OM Service since 1977
Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
- Show quoted text -
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
Tom, and John:
Many thanks for that.
I had already used a rubber eraser to clean the contacts on the camera and the flash. I'll repeat with a little more attitude now.
Many thanks for that.
I had already used a rubber eraser to clean the contacts on the camera and the flash. I'll repeat with a little more attitude now.
George S.
How many is enough?
Jon,
Maybe one reason the flash did not fire was there was sufficient ambient light and the flash was not "needed". (Assuming no electrical fault or dirty contacts)
Here are the reasons I'm thinking the camera perhaps saw "enough" light:
1. you said camera is on PROGRAM.
2. you said flash is on AUTO
3. you're using fast f1.8 lens
4. you said there's some ambient light .
5. your attempt to deliberately underexpose.
You need to make sure that the camera is calling for 1/60 sec or slower shutter speed. PROGRAM mode may not be the best choice. A lot of times you have to have an even slower shutter speed.
Say on PROGRAM the camera is showing you 1/60sec as you compose. At the exact moment of exposure (off-the film, remember) the camera without warning calls for a slightly faster shutter speed than 1/60. That would prevent the flash from firing.
Maybe you should use the MANUAL mode and set 1/60 or even 1/30 sec speed manually.
*** Side note- You should NEVER use any batteries other than SILVER OXIDES in an Olympus camera. NOT alkaline, not lithium. The slight voltage drop from even slightly used (or unused, stored, or unused still in the store) alkalines and lithiums will cause the camera to fail. ***
Maybe one reason the flash did not fire was there was sufficient ambient light and the flash was not "needed". (Assuming no electrical fault or dirty contacts)
Here are the reasons I'm thinking the camera perhaps saw "enough" light:
1. you said camera is on PROGRAM.
2. you said flash is on AUTO
3. you're using fast f1.8 lens
4. you said there's some ambient light .
5. your attempt to deliberately underexpose.
You need to make sure that the camera is calling for 1/60 sec or slower shutter speed. PROGRAM mode may not be the best choice. A lot of times you have to have an even slower shutter speed.
Say on PROGRAM the camera is showing you 1/60sec as you compose. At the exact moment of exposure (off-the film, remember) the camera without warning calls for a slightly faster shutter speed than 1/60. That would prevent the flash from firing.
Maybe you should use the MANUAL mode and set 1/60 or even 1/30 sec speed manually.
*** Side note- You should NEVER use any batteries other than SILVER OXIDES in an Olympus camera. NOT alkaline, not lithium. The slight voltage drop from even slightly used (or unused, stored, or unused still in the store) alkalines and lithiums will cause the camera to fail. ***
Last edited:
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
George S:
That certainly makes sense.
Thank you.
I'll try MANUAL/SPOT (on the camera) at 1/60 later tonight.
It's a construction site, with some lights, which I want to photograph empty at night to contrast it with busy during the day.
That certainly makes sense.
Thank you.
I'll try MANUAL/SPOT (on the camera) at 1/60 later tonight.
It's a construction site, with some lights, which I want to photograph empty at night to contrast it with busy during the day.
George S.
How many is enough?
Jon, another thought. Since you want it to look empty and want to underexpose, the flash may give you too much of a hot spot of light and appear unnatural for a night shot. Maybe try a few long manual exposures without the flash. I think that would be more natural, but without seeing the scene myself or knowing exactly what effect you want, I'm just guessing.
Shame on me, but its also been a while for me since I've used my OM-2SP and OM-3. You're making me want to take them out right now!
Shame on me, but its also been a while for me since I've used my OM-2SP and OM-3. You're making me want to take them out right now!
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
George S:
Thank you for that thought.
The workers have put up bright working lights as they seem to plan to keep construction going overnight. Even from a distance I could do 1/8 at f1.8 and ISO200.
Now, an OM3 is not a camera to keep in storage...
Thank you for that thought.
The workers have put up bright working lights as they seem to plan to keep construction going overnight. Even from a distance I could do 1/8 at f1.8 and ISO200.
Now, an OM3 is not a camera to keep in storage...
George S.
How many is enough?
(Bowing head).... Yes sir, I know.....but these rangefinders are so darn sexy...
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
An OM is a very close cousin to any rangefinder camera.
It's not the viewfinder optics that define it, it's the form factor and feel.
It's not the viewfinder optics that define it, it's the form factor and feel.
kuzano
Veteran
So, make it a rangefinder...uncoupled....
So, make it a rangefinder...uncoupled....
You don't have to look through the prism/mirror. You can get one of the hot shoe mount rangefinders and use it uncoupled. Get the reading and then transfer the focus to the lens using the distance scale... NO PROBLEMO!!!
Anything to get those grand classics out on the street or in the forest. I'm having a great time with my old Olympus Zuiko lenses on my trusty Oly E300 body. Peenomenal Pics.
If the uncoupled rangefinder works for you, you can pull the top off and rip out the prism. Then have some crafty person modify the top sheet metal for a flat top rangefinder look. Take out the mirror while your in there and watch how quiet an already silent OM2 or 3 can be?
So, make it a rangefinder...uncoupled....
You don't have to look through the prism/mirror. You can get one of the hot shoe mount rangefinders and use it uncoupled. Get the reading and then transfer the focus to the lens using the distance scale... NO PROBLEMO!!!
Anything to get those grand classics out on the street or in the forest. I'm having a great time with my old Olympus Zuiko lenses on my trusty Oly E300 body. Peenomenal Pics.
If the uncoupled rangefinder works for you, you can pull the top off and rip out the prism. Then have some crafty person modify the top sheet metal for a flat top rangefinder look. Take out the mirror while your in there and watch how quiet an already silent OM2 or 3 can be?